Journal - Woman on Her Way

May 30: Santiago

A lot has happened since Sahagún. We left town late, waiting for the shops to open to buy spare tubes after having the three flats. It was a lovely day for a ride, warming up with the sun and easy rolling hills. We decided to stay at Mansilla de las Mulasat the albergue Amigos del Peregrino where we stayed two years ago because they have a gas paella grill. After we settled in, we walked around the town taking photos and then we had a glass of beer/wine, complements of Michel Sanchez. Dennis tried on a pilgrim costume and I tought he looked authentic. We found four other pilgrims willing to share the paella. Michel and I went shopping, and then everyone joined in the preparations. I missed this community activity earlier on the Camino Juame where there we so few pilgrims, and am glad to get back to it on the Camino Frances.

We left Mansilla in the cold weather and could see that it was snowing in the mountains. About 4 miles from León, we stopped at the famous Bar La Torre in Arcahueja. Michel and I both added to the wall mural. There were other pilgrims there who were also adding their mark to the bar front. I wonder how often the owner paints over everything, providing a clean slate for other pilgrims.

We arrived in León midday. Our plan was to quickly see the city and cathedral and then move on. And then I fell on a curb, barely 1.5 inches tall, which I did not see. Thinking nothing was wrong, I started to get up and then felt a sting. Looking at my leg, I found that I had gashed it across the kneecap. When Michel saw the 4-in. gap, he went in search of medical help. In the mean time, a person walking by saw my leg and ran to the pharmacy for saline solution, Benedictine, and gauze. He cleaned the wound, wrapped it, and left. It happened so fast, that I never had time to thank the Good Samaritan. Very quickly the rescue came and took me to the hospital, with Dennis trying to keep up on his bike. When he lost track of the ambulance, Dennis tried with his limited Spanish to get directions. At last, a Spaniard asked if he spoke German, and then proceed to explain the way to him. Dennis was relieved and grateful to her.

I received about 20 stitches and instructions to stay off the bike for at least a month. Consequently our plans changed. I have no regret about taking the train from León to Santiago, nor about missing the hills, the snow, and the front West winds. I do regret not having been able to say goodbye to Michel.

Since only the local trains take bicycles, it took us eight hours by train to ride about 200 miles between León and Santiago. It was pleasant and we got to see a lot of Galicia and the rural country side. The disadvantage was that we arrived in Santiago at 12:30 A.M., only to find that a convention had filled all the hotels. After pushing my bike around town for almost two hours, a kind hotel receptionist found us a room on the outskirts of the city, near Monte de Gozo. A taxi drove us there and we climbed into bed–exhausted–about 3:00 A.M.

Today, we retrieved our backpacks from the UPS store, did some shopping, check on the train schedule for Lisbon, and took a long nap. Tomorrow we will finish our preparations and, most likely, leave for Lisbon the following day.

May 26: Sahagún

We had three flats today, two before breakfast and leaving the albergue. It wasn’t too cold riding, and I quickly shed one layer and ear warmers. Michele rode the first stage to Carrión de los Condes and waited a half hour for us to catch up to him. We had the last flat (down to only one spare tube), had to wait for sheep to pass us twice, and passed a trio of horse riders.

As we rode today, I marveled at how green the Meseta is in the spring compared to the brown autumn hues, smelled freshly mowed hay, saw snow in the mountains which made me think of Kilimanjaro, and heard the co0coo bird. My left wrist is doing OK, but shifting is a bit painful and, after riding 70 km (42 mi) is was swollen. After icing, the hand looked more like my other. We are about 70 km from León, Spain. Depending on weather, (rain predicted) we might be there tomorrow.

We are staying in at Albergue Viatoris in Sahagún, a hostel for bicigrinos (bicycling pilgrims). There must be at least 50 bikers here. Dinner should be entertaining. Looking forward to it.

May 23 to 25 Burgos to Boadilla

We left San Anton Abad in the cold about 10 A.M. Staying in hotels means we do not have to leave early as we do when we stay in albergues. It was an immediate 6% uphill 7 km ride on narrow shoulders and lots of truck traffic…not ideal. I pushed the bike for half the climb. But what a ride downhill! If biking were always that easy.

We arrived in Burgos early and stayed at the municipal albergue. After lunch we visited the Cathedral, only to find out afterward that we could have seen it for only 2.5 E had we shown our credentials. Inside the church was cold and we left after 1.5 hrs to warm up. It was freezing when we left the next day: 32 F.

Since we are following the road instead of the Camino that walkers take, we see different towns and sites, such as this stature of a pilgrim.

The ride today was great. The weather improved during the day and we bike mostly downhill and in the sun. As we tell Michel, a fellow cyclist, we are having fun in the sun.

We biked about 40 miles to Boadilla to stay at an albergue that I had noted on my previous Camino as an oasis, En el Camino. Wonderful folks, good food, and swimming pool, though it is too cold to use.

Yesterday I fell and sprained my wrist. This morning, the owner of the albergue drove me to the clinic where the doctor determined it was not broken and all I needed to do was us ibuprofen, ice, and a brace. Better yet, she said I could bike tomorrow. So we are staying another day, resting and enjoying the sun.

Note the storks on the building. From the albergue, we can hear them clacking the beaks.

May 21 and 22: Logroño to San Anto Abad

W hen we left it was 4 C (34 F) and overcast. We followed the Camino for 12 km (7.5 mi) because it was paved. Once over the dam, we got instructions from locals to ride to the end of the park and take the access road on the left. It didn’t look right, but we continue to the top, where a lawn keeper told us to go left, down the hill. There we rejoined the Camino. We pushed the bikes up the dirt path for about 2 km (1.2 mi) and got back onto pavement. From there we followed the N-120 to Sorte and then Naverette. Most of the bikers we lost, several told us to go back. Dennis is a good map reader and we arrived in Najera 31 km (19 mi) later. We biked most of the day in the cold rain, and I could go no further. The albergue we stayed at is one we stayed at 2 yrs. ago: 60 people in one room. Showers, by the time we got there were cool, but it felt great to get out of our wet clothes and into something dry.

After supper, we went to sleep at 9:30 P.M. The next morning they turned on the lights at 6 A.M, and we left the albergue by 8. It was a little warmer, but overcast. We used bags to keep our feet warmer and dry. The totes I had been using were shredded by walking on the Camino, the bags worked well and since they are in the shoes, will not get destroyed.

The ride today was on the N-120, very hilly and with heavy truck traffic. I find it very scary to have the semis whizzing by, buffeting us with the turbulence as they pass. The shoulder is very narrow with a ditch on the right. I must have been hyperventilating from the tension because I suddenly felt dizzy. After a break, we went a little slower.

We met Frank, a 67-year-old Norwegian who has biked all the way from Norway, towing a Bob Trailer. He suffers with the hills, telling us he has bad lungs. He is tough, pushing his bike up the high hills. I hope he makes it to Santiago and does not get discouraged with the challenging terrain.

We biked 55 km today to San Anton Abad, because we recalled that this was such a great 3-star hotel. The proprietors recalled us, and upgraded our room to a suite. How grand is that! I luxuriated in a hot tub, feeling all the tension leave. I am starting to have sore knees from all the climbing; it will be nice to get the high plains called the Meseta.

Dennis and I agree that biking in Spain is so much more difficult than hiking. As bikers, we are more affected by the temperature, the elevation changes, and the lack of signage than the walking pilgrims. Of course, this is an unusual year—even the Spaniards are complaining about the unseasonable cold and rainy weather.

May 20: Logroño

We left Tudela late, about noon. First we went to a ferretería (hardware store) to buy a screwdriver, flat washers, and combination padlock that we could use to lock our things in at the albergues. Dennis tightened all the screws loosen on the trail by the canal, then he cleaned the chain of sand, oiled it, and adjusted the seats. I am lucky he is so skilled in bicycle maintenance.

We followed the Camino out of Tudela. The first 12 km were paved, then the next 8 km were rough dirt roads. The pot holes were large enough to swallow a VW bug–definitely not fit for touring bikes. The road followed the railroad tracks and we passed acres of artichokes, pear and peach orchards, and recently plowed fields. Again, the north wind made pedaling difficult.

Once we arrived at Castlejon and discovered that there were no roads out of the town except for the N-232 (the national highway) and the Camino (more dirt roads). Frustrated, we called it quits and took the train to Logroño (about 70 miles away.)

Spanish trains have a special compartment for bikes. All we had to do was push the bikes onto to the train and then hook them on the mounts. Easy.

Once we disembarked in Logroño, the station had elevators large enough for the bikes. Thank goodness. I could not see myself on the escalator with the bike.

After settling in at the albergue, we walked around town, mailed something home (from the tobacco store which sold us an envelope and stamps), saw the cathedral, and then went out to eat.

We were early at the restaurant and had to wait about 20 minutes to get served. I was ready to eat my arm, not having eaten since breakfast. I dove into fresh, crusty bread, which took the edge of my appetite. I had fish soup, lamb with artichokes, and rice pudding for dessert. Everything was nicely seasoned and we left sated.

The restaurant, for those who might go to Logroño, is Cafe Moderna Bar. I highly recommend it.

May 19: Tudela

This morning was one of those days that makes most people want to stay in bed–rainy and cold. Other pilgrims were taking the train to Logrono and I was tempted. Dennis left the option to me, since I was the one thinking that the train fare could not be more than the cost of two nights in an albergue. Finally, I decided to move one. Dressed for the weather, we decided to ride the N-232. After riding 5 km (3 mi) up hill with a headwind to the entrance ramp, we discovered that we were not allowed on this section of the highway. We returned to the train station, but it was not yet opened. The only other way out of the city was the Camino on the side of the canal. We did not really want to take this since it had poured the during the night and the ground was wet and “sticky” for our skinny road tires. Without an alternative option, we set out for Tudela 34 km (21) miles away on the dirt and pebbly road. Touring bikes are not meant to be driven on this terrain. We jostled and bumped so much that we both ended up with saddle sores.

The sun came out and the view improved as we rode northwest. The ride was a gradual climb that would have been easily accomplished on mountain bikes. I stayed in the lower gears and tried to avoid the potholes and puddles. As our bottoms started to ache, we took more frequent breaks.

The view along the canal changed from mountains, to farmland, to tree copses. We heard birds, ducks, and saw storks. We passed a dilapidated church, a hermitage, several unidentified bridges with road crossings, villages, and a few levies. Since I was concentrating on the road, my view was mostly of my handlebars. Imagine coming all this way to see this glorious view!

At last, we came to the end of the Camino by the canal and onto paved roads. Again the signage was missing and we ended up driving to the exit of the highway. Of course, we peddled up hill. By this point, I took all my energy to make it to the top. Backtracking, Dennis made a good guess about which road to take and, at last, we arrived at Tudela. When we got to the albergue, it was closed. We noted to phone number and went in search of a pay phone. A kind waitress at a pastry shop, called the hostel. They only accepted large groups or people who made reservations 24 hours earlier. We were SOL. Too tired to continue, we booked a room at the first hotel we found. After a hot shower, we went in search of food. Spanish custom is to have the large meal on Sunday afternoon. By 6 p.m. most restaurants are closed. After walking about a half mile, we found a bar that served meals. We returned to the hotel around 10 p.m. and went to bed after a long and tiring day.

May 18: Gallur

When we left Zaragoza, it was overcast and about 50F. I had on all my gear. About 10 miles out, I took off my fleece jacket, but kept on the rain gear. We dodged raindrops all day.

We biked on just about all types of byways — city streets, highway, two-way local roads, one-lane country roads (camino rural) and dirt roads that were part of the Camino. What a joy it was to hear the birds, see fields of poppies, ride side-by-side, and even talk to each other.

We stopped in Alagon to avoid a storm and had wonderful tapas for lunch. We asked directions to the next town and eight people discussed the best way there. Seems everyone had an opinion. The proprietor used Goggle maps to help us.

It is so hard finding one’s way around Spain; there is just not adequate signage. Several times we came to intersections and guessed which way. Of course, we had a 50-50 chance of being wrong and needing to double back.

After about 35 miles, we arrived at the albergue in Gallur, just before it started to pour. Luck us. Hot shower, dinner, and then off to bed.

May 16 and 17: Zaragoza

Ten miles out of Bujaraloz, we had our first flat tire. As Dennis was repairing the puncture caused by a metal scrap, I decided to pee in the tall grass and came out covered in ants. Apparently, I squatted over an anthill. Luckily I was wearing rain gear and the little buggers were unable to penetrate the vinyl. Lesson learned.

Again, we faced a head wind, called Cierzo, which is common in winter and spring. We now realize we may be facing this until Logrono. Bummer! I think we will limit our biking to around 30 km/day as a result; its just too hard on the knees.

After passing Alfarjin, the truck traffic left the N-II, to our relief.

Dennis had planned an excellent route into the city and we arrived at the Albergue Zaragoza by midday. After settling in, we went to Recicleta, a bike shop to get from panniers for my bike. I hope these won’t make biking in the wind more difficult than it is.

It is bone-chilling (43 F) and we had to buy warmer shirts, something I had not expected to do. As a Floridian, I can no longer take these temperatures without bundling up. I resemble the Michelin man when riding.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA We are staying an extra day to explore the city, see the Basilica de Nuestra Senora de Pilar (right), visit the Friends of the Camino which does not open until 7 pm tonight (hoping we can get more info on the bike route), rest, and avoid an 70% chance of rain.

Our room in the alberque it small with two beds. Most of the residents are young from around the world. At breakfast we spoke with two young Belgians (19 and 28) who are biking throughout Europe, a French woman for Toulouse, and a German woman from Cologne. Both women are traveling alone. At first, I thought how brave they were and then I remembered how I did the same when I was 20. How could I have forgotten? Is it that as we get older, we get less brave? I don’t think I would have undertaken this bike adventure without Dennis–I get lost to easily, and I don’t know how to change a flat. He is my guide and mechanic, I am his translator. Together, we make quite a team.

May 15 Osera de Ebro

Today was a tough day. We started out in the cold and rain. After 10 km (6 mi) the rain stopped, but a 30 km head wind kept us from making any distance. At one point, I was in my lowest gear and pedaling downhill. Not fair! After working to ascend the steep hills, I expect a little reprieve and a quick descent. Not today.

After 36 km (22 mi) will pulled into a truck-stop in Osera de Ebro and called it quits. I was afraid of blowing out my knees if I continued with the effort. The Portal de Monegos has a comfortable bed, hot showers, and non-working WI-FI. We have a connection with four bars, but a rain storm last week broke an internal connection that has not been fixed. Disappointed, I am writing this post to publish next time I have WI-FI.

May 14, Bujaraloz

Arrived at the Espanol, a hotel in Bujaraloz, tired, wet, and hungry, after riding 75 km (45 miles) in hilly country. Nice morning ride to Fraga, then a long uphill climb. Pushed the bike on an 8% grade for 2 km to the top. After that is was a gentle downhill descent for about 10 km. It rained twice while we rode up and down hills. I was stronger today, perhaps because of the rest day. Early 7 pm supper than off to bed.