June 7, 2014 Saint-Sauveur-le-Vicomte

Searching for dad

We put-puttered north for about 6 miles (10 km) to Saint-Sauveur-le-Vicomte to see if we could determine the location of the above photos. Dennis’s dad is the upper right man in the top photo and the one standing third from the left and near the blur of the flash in the lower picture.

After visiting the château (below) we went to the museum. It was a literary one, not one about the town, and was of no help. They did suggest we visit the florist who had interest in WWII and a display in her shop’s window. She suggested we talk with Mde. Paulette Marie (right), who was fifteen at the time of liberation and who might be able to pinpoint where the pictures were taken.

She most graciously accepted us in her home and talked with us for about an hour. She took out a collection of pre-WWII postcards of the town to see if we could identify the location from these. We could not. She suggested that the photos could have been taken in a courtyard.

After leaving her, we stopped at an old café. Though the owner was young, he recognized the upper photo from a promo leaflet; he did not know where it was taken. We left the town no wiser than before we arrived.

Friday, June 6, Sainte-Mère-Église, FR

D-Day +70 years

We replaced the bicycles with a motor scooter. We buzzed (like a hive of bees) to Sainte-Mère-Église, travelling only about twice as fast as we did peddling. The highest speed was around 30 mph (50 km). Dennis commented that the motorbike was giving it its all to climb the hills, but so was I the day before.

The weather was perfect with clear skies and temps in the mid 70s, though it was a bit windy. The locales were all dressed in summer outfits and getting sun-burned. 20140606_164156 D-day celebrations

In town, about 20, 000 people (perhaps more) filled the streets. All ages and nationalities. There was a sense of expectancy and excitement. Around the square there were perhaps twenty each beer and sausage pavilions, as well as ice cream and crepes vendors, souvenirs stands, and recruiters for the French military.

From the band stand the politicians droned on and the men’s choir sang an occasional song, either nationalistic or from the 40s. The acoustics were terrible. We stood in line for about an hour to buy a sausage sandwich for Dennis, and then sat in the shade for him to eat it. Sitting near us was a family from Normandy dressed in military garb. The little girl was darling. Many people photographed that family, and the boy was very willing to pose.

At 5 PM there was a fly-over with the C47s and the parade started. There were 1200 Americans marching in the band, mostly ROTC and high school bands, some carrying photos of relatives. Several returning vets paraded in military vehicles or were pushed in wheel chairs. You can see how happy he was. This morning the paper reported that a British veteran was found and returned to his nursing home; he was bound for Normandy and the celebrations–many were here in spirit if not in body.

Later that evening there were more celebrations and fireworks, but we left after the parade.

Wednesday, June 4, 2014 La Haye-du-Puits

We arrived in La Haye-du-Puits around 5:30 P.M and said goodbye to our friends who had a two-hour ride back to Brittany. Hopefully they will visit us in Sarasota some day so we can treat them as royally as they have done us.

The store fronts are decorated for the commemorations and there is a festive air in town, and a lot of foreigners in the cafés and eateries. People do not want to forget.

The bike shop was closed by the time we got there, but the Tourist Office was open and they gave us the bus schedules. It takes two buses to get to Sainte-Mère-Église from here and the schedules do not coincide. We missed the 7:33 bus that connected with the one we wanted. Instead we took the early afternoon bus and hitched to Sainte-Mère-Église.

The town was filled with people reenacting the liberation. There were Jeeps, trucks, uniforms, and women dressed in the 40s style, even wearing pancake makeup. There are a lot of American GIs. We spoke with Airborne men who will be jumping on Sunday using the old chutes and jumping from C47s. They were thrilled to have the opportunity to use the traditional chutes.

Some of the veteran’s of D-Day have returned. Ninety-three year old Jim “Peewee” Martin from the 101st Airborne, parachuted into the same area as he did 70 years ago from a C47, the same kind of plane used back then,. He said, “It didn’t compare because there wasn’t anybody shooting at me today.”

We spoke with the 91 year-old H. Daniels from the 82nd 507th. He seemed to be enjoying returning to Normandy, especially in these happier times.

In town, I inquired at the Tourist Office if the buses were operating on time and from the usual place–there was only one bus that would make the connection back to La Haye-du-Puits. Yes, as usual was the reply. We stood at the bus stop for about 45 minutes when a local told us the bus had been rerouted. Fortunately the bus was running late and we were able to catch the one at the transfer.

Back at La Haye-du-Puits, we contacted the bike rental place and made arrangements for the next three days. Hopefully the rain and wind and cold will dissipate.

Tuesday, June 3, 2014 Mont St-Michel

Josette and Jean-François took us to Mont St-Michel before taking us to La Haye-du-Puits in Normandy. Ever since we were children, we have wanted to visit this. Dennis first became aware of Mont-Saint-Michel from a View-Master slide and I from a monthly grammar school magazine.

Mont St-Michel is an island between Brittany and Normandy. The island is small, only about 247 acres and has a population of 44, mostly religious.

Over the years, the sand had filled in the distance between the island and the mainland and people were able to drive on the mud flats to the base of a the mount. Excavations are in progress to restore the ocean and to build an access road for walkers and shuttles from the parking lot.

Shifting sands, intense fog, and the ocean were natural fortresses for the monks who originally lived here. Even now, you need a guide to walk on the sand during low tide. 20140603_120224 making omelets 300

After the revolution, Mont St-Michel was turned into a jail until 1863 when it was returned to the abbey. The abbey was again returned to Christian worship in 1922. It is now a World Heritage Site. It is also a pilgrimage site and one of the stops along one of the Caminos de Santiago.

As we passed restaurant Le Mere Poulard on the main drag, we heard a fun rhythmic beat created by cooks dressed in traditional garb as they whipped the egg whites for the famous omelets. They then fold in the egg yolks and cook the mixture over an open hearth using long-handled pans. The omelets puff up like a soufflé and are served slightly runny. Of course, we all tried one for lunch. I could not believe that this omelet was made with only two eggs–it was that filling.

The abbey is in restoration. Recently, the statue of Saint-Michel, the archangel, which decorates the top of the abbey, was removed for gilding. After flying around the region, a helicopter repositioned to its place atop the abbey.

We explored the abbeys many rooms and floors, but our friends tell us that prior to the restoration, more was available for viewing.

From the windows, you can see the bay stretching from Normandy to Brittany with the river marking the border between the two provinces. Josette explains that Brittany and Normandy would both like to claim Mont St-Michel.When the river passed Mont St-Michel on the other side, the abbey was part of Brittany. Today, the river’s route has changed and the abbey is on Normand soil.

It is said, the higher up you go in the abbey, the closer you are to God. The monks cloister and refectory are at the top. Below them are the guests halls designed for kings and royalty. Below this is the knight’s hall. Finally on the first floor, is the hall where the monks received the poor and the pilgrims.

An intriguing huge wheel installed in 1830 is a replica of one used during the middle ages. Like hamsters, six men, usually prisoners, would power a winch to haul a giant sledge loaded with two-ton loads of stones and supplies from the landing below almost vertically up the wall. This was used until the 19th century.

Off to one side is a cloister, a rectangular open space surrounded by an open gallery with arcades. There are signs not to touch the marble columns, which look delicate. The columns, arranged in quincunx, a geometry pattern resembling the pips on the number five side of a dice. The columns were originally made of limestone from England but were later restored using puddingstone from Lucerne. This is a rock conglomerate of rounded pebbles that sharply contrast in color with the sandy medium and giving the appearance of raisins in Christmas pudding.

The purpose of the cloister is to provide a place for the monks to meditate without disturbance by those who were not religious. In the middle is a medieval garden recreated in 1966 by brother Bruno de Senneville, a Benedict monk. The center is made of box tree surrounded by 13 Damascus roses. Medicinal plants, aromatic herbs and flowers symbolize the daily needs of Middle-age monks. In the middle of the box trees were monsters to remind that in the middle of any marvel evil could still be there

I would have like to 20140603_134318 descending from abbey have seen the abbey after dark when the island is magically floodlit. But Josette and Jean-François drove us to La Haye-en-Puits, and then returned to their home in Brittany. Dennis and I are both so thankful for the hospitality and for making us feel like part of the family. It was sad for us to say goodbye.

Monday, June 2, 2014, St. Malo, France

Our Camino friends Jean-François and Josette showed us highlights of St. Malo and the surrounding area. We stopped to see the statue of Jacques Cartier, the St. Malo sailor who, in 1534, claimed Canada for France. His statue points towards the Atlantic towards Quebec.

Afterwards, we toured the St. Malo, the walled port city of Brittany notorious for its pirates. The weather was overcast, but the occasional sunshine brought the temperatures into the mid 60s F. which made it comfortable for us to walk the 1.2-mile circuit (1.754 km) on the ramparts around the city. The original medieval walls were extended in the 17th century to accommodate the expanding city. From the top of the 12-foot wide walkway, we could see the bay and the islets at the mouth of the Rance estuary.

Tall granite edifices with enormous windows provide the homes on the west side of town with a great view of the sea. 20140602_105248 ramparts of St. Malo The western exposure and tall buildings prevent sunlight from entering the rooms; this might be ideal in summer, but I imagine the rooms are damp and chilly in the cooler months. Many of the apartments are rented for the tourists, mostly from the UK.

Dennis was amazed by the hugeness of this well-preserved medieval city. Everything is big and heavy. We later learned that the city was destroyed in WWII, and then reconstructed from the rubble, following the original plan and spirit of the ancient city.

Descending from the wall, we strolled along the narrow and cobbled intramural streets. There are still a few timber-framed buildings that add color and contrast to the Renaissance-style structures.

Since the port receives many ferries from Portsmouth, Poole, and Weymouth, there are many shops that cater to the tourists and the town has one of the highest concentration of restaurants in Europe. In spite of the tourism, the prices for eating and clothing were reasonable. During the summer, the town’s population increases to 200,000.Other parts of the city have small and colorful buildings.

Next, we visited the promontory fort of Cite d’Alet, an ancient Celtic city. During WWII, the Germans built concrete bunkers and defenses here. We did not visit the memorial museum, but walked around the site, seeing signs of the struggle here. I imagine how frightening the bombardment must have been for the soldiers in the tunnels and underground bunkers.

It felt good to walk on the grounds and along the bay. There we saw jellyfish and various shells strewed on the pebbly beach. There are also remains of an ancient stone church, dating to pre-Roman times.

The Tour Solidor (Solidor Tower) was built between 1369 and 1382 to control access to the Rance Over the centuries the tower lost its military importance and became a jail. It is now a museum celebrating Breton sailors exploring Cape Horn.

We returned to our friends’ home to enjoy a traditional regional meal: Galette au Blé Noir. These are thin buckwheat pancakes, fried egg, ham, and grated Swiss cheese sandwiches served with a salad and sparkling apple cider. I can’t wait to make this recipe for my parents, I am sure they would enjoy it.

After lunch, we visited San Suliac, a typical fishing village. Nets still hang on the front of the homes as in the olden days. Flowers seem to grow from every crack in the slate making the town very inviting.

In the harbor stands a statue, La Vierge de Grainfollet. Ships leaving the harbor would pray for a safe return as they passed by.

A stain-glass window in the church reflects the fisherman’s life with a boat, a lighthouse, and a pilgrimage to the neighboring town.

On the way to Cancale, we stopped to admire the coastline with the emerald waters. At low tide, the water almost disappears on the horizon.

Due to its location, The “Bay of Saint-Malo” has the biggest tides in Europe. The tidal range – the difference between high tide and low tide – is on average, more than 40 feet (12m) at the full moon, the greatest for all Europe.

When we got to Cancale, the largest oyster farm in France, the tide was out. As we had supper in a restaurant overlooking the bay (yummy oysters and fruits de mer), we watched how quickly the waters returned. oyster farm Cancale In no time, boats that were grounded were able to leave, and the oyster beds disappeared.

It takes three years for the oysters to mature and they must be turned daily.When the tides recede, trucks and farm implements drive out to tend to the oyster beds.

In the past when the men were at sea, it was the women who harvested and sold the oysters. Based on this tradition, only women are permitted to sell the oysters.

What you need to do to prep for a long adventure

Preparing for a long adventure involves more than packing your bags. You need to make travel plans, prepare your home, and select your take-alongs with care. Packing light is always a good idea, especially when backpacking.

Prepare for travel

Develop the itinerary. Unless you are having a free-style adventure, you need to pay attention to schedules and meetings. Once you’ve completed the traveling plans, give a copy to a family member or trusted friend.

On this trip, we are going to museums for research, meeting with friends in three different cities, attending the 70th Anniversary Commemorations of D-Day in Normandy, France, and then walking The Ridgeway National Path in England at a time when many other people are doing so. To insure accommodations in small towns or along hiking trails, we made reservations at hostels and inns. Many were already full. Since we are traveling on foot, knowing that we have a place to stay in the evening is comforting.

Making the reservations took days. In the larger cities, the hotels, inns, and B&Bs have an on-line presence and booking is easy. In the smaller towns and near hiking paths, it is not so simple. Many one-to-three room facilities only list a phone number or, at best, an email. Some only accept cash or checks for reservation deposits. Since sending money electronically internationally would cost me $40.00, I avoided establishments with these requirements.

Purchase travel insurance.

Having been hurt in a previous adventure, I realize how important it is to have medical insurance and, if needed, evacuation insurance. It’s a gamble, but not one I would like to lose.

Contact your credit card company to tell them you are traveling and the countries you will be visiting. You don’t want to have your credit card denied until you can prove who you are.

If you are planning on renting a car in another country, find out what documentation is required and what the driving rules are for that particular country. Also, call your credit card company to see if you need to purchase additional vehicular insurance or, if by renting the vehicle using the credit card, you are already insured.

On a trip to Puerto Rico, I purchased car insurance only to find out that I would have had better coverage had I not done so. When a coconut fell onto the roof of the rental car and then bounced onto the hood leaving large dents, I had to pay a $500 dollar deductible, which I would not have had to if I had not elected to purchase that insurance. It would have been covered in full with the credit card guarantee.

Familiarize yourself with the local money and customs. Knowing what to expect eliminates nasty surprises.

Prepare the clothing

Pack light. If you can, coordinate your outfits to extend your look with fewer pieces of clothing. Since I am backpacking, I try to have at least two uses for everything. I developed a travel packing list that I revise after each trip. Experience helps eliminate the unnecessary and ensures that I have what I need.

On this trip, I must bring clothes for two weeks on the transatlantic crossing. Since in on-board ship attire is different from what I’ll need when backpacking, I am bringing clothes that I can discard at the end of the cruise. Once I laid out my clothing for the trip, I reevaluated each item to see if it was absolutely necessary. Fortunately, I will not be in the wilderness and will have access to stores if I forget something.

Prepare the house

When you prepare for a long trip, don’t forget to prep the house for when you are away. You don’t want to return to a house damaged in your absence. My Camino Tips provides lists of things you need to do starting three weeks before departure.

In preparation, I mowed the yard, trimmed the trees and bushes, cleared out the gutters, and put things away in case of a tornado or hurricane. My neighbor will watch over the house, mow the lawn, and make a weekly pass-through to verify that everything is fine inside the house. I don’t want burst pipes or malfunctioning air-conditioning damage.

Stop the paper and the mail. Call the utility companies to make payment arrangements while you are away.

On the day of departure, I will:

Add bleach to the toilets and cover with plastic wrap.
Lock all windows and doors.
Turn off the hot water heater
Put out the trash.
Set the thermostat
Set the light timers; these help discourage house break-ins.
Shut off water to the inside of the house.
Stop the water processor.
Tape up water drains and overflow drains on sinks and showers to prevent bugs from entering the house.
Unplug the TV and other appliances, lights, etc. Don’t forget to unplug the electric stove. Unplugging can prevent damage from electrical storms.

References

10 packing tips every traveler should know

2014’s Adventure

On this year’s adventure, we will revisit some countries and see new ones. We are returning to Europe to continue research for Dennis’ book about his father’s WWII combat parachute jumps, see friends we encountered on the Camino Francés in 2011, explore new countries (Sweden, Denmark, Germany—we only stepped into it last year), attend the 70th Anniversary of D-Day ceremonies in Normandy, France, and walk The Ridgeway Path in England—all in seven weeks.

We are starting the adventure with a two-week transatlantic crossing, visiting Ponta Delgada Zores (part of Portugal), Dover, England, Helsingborg, Sweden, and disembarking in Copenhagen, Denmark, where we will spend a few days. Unlike last’s year five-and-a-half month romp, we have a schedule to follow.

We will again be backpacking, but we will not be carrying camping equipment. More room for warm clothes! When we arrive in Copenhagen, we can expect twelve hours of daylight per day, and temperatures ranging from 44 to 60°F (7 to 16°C). In June, we can expect temperatures in Normandy, France to be only slightly warmer: 50 to 68° F (10.5 to 20°C). Since I’ve moved to Florida, I’ve become a chilly-willy; these temperatures will push my limits.

After comparing cost and the advantages/disadvantages of a Eurorail card, we decided to purchase a Global Pass for seniors (60 years and older). With the pass we will have fifteen days of travel in a twenty-day time span, which starts counting the day we board our first train.

With the anniversary ceremonies in Normandy, most nearby hotels were full. We were fortunate enough to book our hotel last fall, but it is about fifteen miles from St. Mere Eglise, where we need to be. We have arranged to borrow two bicycles and will pedal about an hour and a half each way.

My postings while on the ship will be scarce, but I plan to have daily entries starting May 19. I hope you will join me in our travels via this blog.