On our final day at sea, we took advantage of the last-day on board sales, watched the crew talent show, played the slot machines (first time for Elizabeth), and packed our bags. The weather was too windy for mom to walk on deck, so we spent most of the time in our cabin or in the O’Sheehan’s Bar and Grill. This eatery was only a few steps from our room and served breakfast and light fare, in addition to drinks.
O’Sheehan’s Bar and Grill
The last crew performance was the best, visually and musically. We tried to get to the comedian-magician show, but there was no room.
Hurricane Patricia was pummeling the Pacific side of Mexico as we skedaddled to Tampa. Instead of arriving at 7:00 AM, we docked five hours early. Kleig lights on the dock shinned in our room awakening me, and then the smell of diesel fuel and the yelling of the shore crew kept me awake. Mom and I were up early, preparing to leave.
Versailles Dining Room
We breakfasted in the Versailles dinning room, then sat in the cafe until it was time to disembark. Dennis was waiting for us, so once we passed through customs, he was there to drive us home.
Cozumel is an island in the Caribbean Sea off the neater coast of Mexico’s Yucatan Peninsula. This popular cruise ship destination became famous in 1961 when Jacques Cousteau declared Cozumel one of the most beautiful scuba diving areas of the world. Since then, Cozumel has become an underwater marine park to protect the delicate balance of the coral reefs and abundant variety of tropical fish.
Off snorkeling (Left to right, Jane, Doris, and Elizabeth.)
This is where I first snorkeled and looked forward to the experience. I had initially planned to take a local taxi to Playa Carona. As we left the pier, we talked to several tour guide operators and learned that the 2008 hurricane had changed the coast and the flow of fish. Instead of going on our own, we took an excursion with a local dive shop, which turned out fantastic. We visited three sites, had an attentive marine tour guide, saw plenty of fish, coral, and aquatic plants in crystal-clear waters. The snorkeling leader fed the fish, which meant we were surrounded with colorful Sargent Majors, deep blue parrot fish, and other vibrant fish of various sizes. He dove down for a sea cucumber and I held the strange sea worm in my hand. This excursion was by far better than the one we had on Roatan.
Margaritaville in Cozumel
Once we landed we went to Jimmy Buffet’s Margaritaville to buy souvenirs, and then we returned to the cruise ship. Mom had a lucky streak in the casino; she played for more than a half hour on $5.00 before loosing it all.
The entertainment was a comedian named Fred Bevill. His jokes were funny, but the true story of his first date at age nine was hilarious.
Roatan, Honduras is the largest of the Honduras Bay Islands. It is about 77 k long and less that 8 k across at its widest point. Roatan’s history traces back to the Maya civilization. It has seen the arrival of the Conquistadors, the Garifuna, and the fishing industry.
Tethering the ship in Roatan
In 1990, about 19,000 English-speaking people inhabited this little island. Now it is known for its diving and snorkeling. Doris and I took the underwater museum and reef tour. Twenty-three people crowded into a small bus to head out to the world’s second largest barrier reef. The last four people to board the bus had to sit in jump seats in the aisle.
On the coach ride to the museum, the tour guide told us about the sleepy community. Most of the houses are built on stilts because the islands sees more than 150 inches of rain each year. The public school children wear uniforms in the color of the state flag, blue and white. The younger children attend classes in the morning while the older ones use the same classrooms in the afternoon.
The bus arrived at a recently opened center. Our snorkeling guide divided us into two groups. Luckily my sister and I were in the second group because this gave us an opportunity to swim in the shallow waters off the beach and try the snorkeling gear. The snorkel broke off my mask so I had used one provided by the tour. Doris had to get help fitting her new mask. By the time the first group returned, we were ready for the tour. The water near the “museum” was not pristine, the statues were ketch,and the marine life was not abundant nor colorful. In spite of this, we shared a wonderful adventure.
Roatan, Honduras
The town where we ported is colorful, but poor. I wonder if the natives see the tourist as a blessing or a curse, with the thousands of foreigners descending on their little island each day.
Instead of snorkeling, Elizabeth set off on her own to explore the town. She loved the colorful buildings and enticing local shops and eateries. She felt sorry for the dogs wandering through the town, but decided against giving them water, thinking that they had been surviving without her help. After withdrawing money from the local ATM, she realized that the machine currency was not US dollars, but Honduran. The exchange rate for US dollar to the Honduran Lempira is about a 22:1. She laughed as she realized the withdrawal fees were higher than the amount she took out.
Back on the ship, Mom and I decided against ordering a Moscow Mule, the drink of the day, and ordered the Painkiller instead. This rum-coconut-pineapple concoction has become her favorite cocktail. Since on vacation, sipping on a fruity drink has replace our afternoon tea.
The evening’s performance was “The Look of Love,” a Burt Bacharach review. The story was lame, but the singing and performance was entertaining.
Costa Maya is in the only state of Mexico bounded by the Caribbean on its east. Although the official language is Spanish, many speak Mayan. As a linguist, I would love to hear Mayan.
The Mayans were predominate in the area from 200 B.C to 900 A.D. There are many ancient ruins such as Chacchoben, which was built in the 4th century and includes a magnificent stone structures and a pyramid, and Kohunlich.
We changed our clocks back, so it was only 5:30 when mom and I awakened. We took advantage to see the sunrise, so pretty on the horizon.
Costa Maya port
We spent the morning in the gym, the hot tub, and reading. After lunch, Doris, Elizabeth, and I disembarked to explore Costa Maya. This port town is still being developed after Hurricane Dean on October 31, 2008
The area around the pier is nothing but a tourist trap. All the same blitzy stores and island ware available at all the cruise stops throughout Caribbean. Doris bought herself a bracelet and a few souvenirs, but Elizabeth and I saw nothing appealing.
Elizabeth in small town square
Back on the ship, Elizabeth and I swam in the saltwater pool, and then mom joined us in the hot tub as we enjoyed today’s bar special, the Pisco Punch. Yesterday’s drink was much better.
To make up for the lost time, the captain sped over the large swells and whitecaps and altered the itinerary. Instead of stopping first at Roatan, Honduras, we will first visit Costa Maya, Mexico.
On our first day at sea, mom and I walked about two miles on the promenade deck. She spent 20 minutes on the exercise bike (pretty good for someone who is eight-eight years old), while Elizabeth and I used the elliptical machines. It felt great doing a workout.
Mom trying out the casino
Mom enjoys the slot machines, but limits her daily expenditure. It only took her about twenty minutes to reach her spending cap, as we watched and cheered her on. The last time I had been at sea, people used the boarding/charge cards to play in the casino. Now, the machines use paper money and give a credit slip for winnings, which can then be redeemed at the casino cashiers. With all the changes, we had to get an attendant to help us figure out the process.
The drink of the day is “The Painkiller.” Mom and I enjoyed this rum-coconut concoction similar to a pina collada while we sat on the Lido deck and enjoyed the afternoon.
Promenade deck (Left to Right: Doris, Mom, Elizabeth)
After dinner in the Agua dinning we strolled the Promenade Deck. Then, Elizabeth went to Karaoke to “party like a Norwegian” and we old fogies went to our rooms
This trip is a 6-day Western Caribbean cruise out of Tampa, FL, exploring Roatan, Bay Islands (Honduras), Costa Maya (Mexico), and Cozumel (Mexico). I am traveling with my mother, sister Doris, and friend Elizabeth. I hope you will enjoy our adventure.
We left Sarasota around 10 AM. Dennis made lattes for Elizabeth and me to sip on as we drove to the Tampa pier. Once Dennis dropped us off and we gave the porter our bags, it took roughly two hours before we finally embarked. Lots of mazed-lines to register and receive our boarding passes.
Exploring the ship (Front to back: Mom, Elizabeth, and Doris)
Hungry and thirsty, we bee-lined to the Lido deck. While we quenched our thirst and stuffed our bellies, the captain announced that the staterooms were prepared. I was surprised to see that most of our luggage was in our rooms. Mom and I are sharing a mid-ship room with a porthole, Elizabeth and Doris are sharing a balcony room at the other end of the ship.
om in stateroom on the Norwegian Star
We spent the latter part of the day exploring the ship. Mom and I enjoyed a “Rebellious Fish,” the cocktail of the day and then we all went for supper. We decided to skip the Welcome Aboard shore and retired to our rooms.
Enjoying dinner in the Aqua dining room (Left to right: Me and mom in back, Doris and Elizabeth in front)
We learned that we would not be leaving on time because of a propulsion problem. The departure was rescheduled to 10 PM, but we did not leave until 3 AM. Elizabeth and Doris went up to the Lido deck to join other jubilant passengers. They then got up at 5 AM to see the ship go under the Skyway Bridge, and then see the sunrise. The joy of being on sea made the night fun, but being up all night made them ravenous.
We arrived at Middlebury, VT, around 11 PM. Late to find accommodations, but we were not prepared to find that the inns were full. Middlebury College was having an athletic camp. As a result, all the rooms were taken.
As we were leaving Middlebury on Route 7, I spotted a small motel with a vacancy sign. We got the last room. It was small, but better than driving thirty miles to the next town.
The next morning, I dropped Dennis of at the trailhead to complete hiking the Long Trail. As he walked into the woods, I did not envy him, as I thought I might. It was cold and pouring, similar to the inclement weather we experienced on the first half of the trail. It seems that hiking in the Vermont rain is his fate.
It took me about three hours to drive to Hampstead, NH, where I stopped to visit the old house. Seeing it flooded me with thirty years of memories and lots of emotions. I didn’t want to stop at the beginning of the drive. I wanted to pull into the yard as I had done countless times before. Wisely, I took a look-see and backed out, heading to Matt and Aine’s house in Newton, MA.
The drive from Vermont, the farthest I have driven in a long while, felt like an accomplishment. With good directions and a tankful of gas, I arrived safely. Dennis does not like being a passenger. As a result, he chauffeurs me. Since I don’t enjoy driving, this arrangement works well for both of us, and I get caught up on my reading.
On our way north from the Florida Authors and Publishers Association (FAPA) conference in Orlando, Florida we detoured to Savannah, Georgia for lunch. We walked around the Chippewa Square where the “Life is like a box of chocolates” scene was filmed for the Forrest Gump movie. The actual bench is now in the Savannah History Museum.
Six Pence Pub
We had lunch at Six Pence Pub near the square. The air was pleasant so we enjoyed sitting out front of the restaurant and people watching. Food was great, as was the draft beer. If you visit Savannah, I recommend having lunch at the pub.
Since this was just a side trip, we left visiting the other local sites for a future visit.
This morning, the youth group was up early, but was relatively quite. They certainly did not follow the leave no trace principles. They dropped wrappers on the ground, washed dishes near the water source, and left the seat up on the privy to attract varmint and flies.
We have about six miles to walk to get to RT 125 at Middlebury Gap, starting with a 1000 vertical climb. Why is it always up first thing in the morning?
We have thirty shelters to visit before reaching Canada. At my slow rate, it will take another 25 to 30 days, not counting zero days. We do not have time to finish hiking the LT before a writers convention that we have planned to attend in early August. We will need to decide whether to cancel attending the conference or stop the hike early. After last night’s late hike, poor rest, and sore feet, the latter is appealing.
There is no spring in my step today. I sound like Darth Vadar and each step is plodded like Godzilla’s. Since I usually start off before Dennis (he catches up quickly), I climbed Worth Mountain for about 45 minutes before I stopped to catch my breath, cool down, and wait for Dennis. Worth Mountain really was not worth all the effort. There was no reward—no glorious view, in fact, no views at all. In more than three weeks, the Green Mountains’ canopy and the socked-in peaks have provided only two glimpses of the range’s majesty.
Once again, the profile map leads us to believe the climb is easier than it really is. And the contour map is hard to follow since we never really know where we are.
Dennis and I discuss stopping. Dennis thinks we should stop, he is afraid that I might end up hurting myself in the next half of the Long Trail, which is much more steep and difficult. I don’t want to give in. I know that I can finish the LT as long as I go at my turtle pace. So what if it takes time—what’s the rush anyway? We opt to take a few day off in Middlebury, and then decide.
The last forecast was sunny for the foreseeable future. Vermonters must be short-sighted. Within twenty-four hours of that prediction it started to pour. Drenched, we stopped at a shed near the ski slope chair lift to change into dry clothes, don rain gear, and try to call Doug McKain. As usual, there was no phone service. When we left the shed, we started climbing again. Dennis commented that it did not make sense to be going down a ski slope and having to climb.
Middlebury Inn, one of America’s Historic Hotels
We did not know at the time that the road at Middlebury Gap was less than half a mile away, Within minutes of arriving at the trailhead, a woman stopped to give us a ride into Middlebury, about thirteen miles east. She mentioned several lodgings, but we decided to stay at the centrally located Middlebury Inn, one of America’s Historic Hotels. She also said how lucky we were to get there today because the roads would be closed for maintenance for the next several days and it would have been impossible to hitch a ride.
After a nice hot shower, we went to Two Brother’s Tavern for a local brew and hamburger. The atmosphere in the restaurant was welcoming and the servers very attentive. The food was plentiful and we left stuffed and ready for a nap.
When I checked my emails, I found out that my book Hadrian’s Wall Path: Walking into History was a finalist in the Florida Authors and Publishers Association (FAPA) presidents awards in the Adult Nonfiction category. The winners will be announced at the Awards Dinner at the FAPA conference in early August.
With this news, we made our decision. After 132 miles on the Long Trail, we were stopping. Dennis may return to complete the hike after the convention, if things work out.
Middlebury, VT
We contacted Doug and arranged for him to shuttle us on Thursday from Middlebury to North Troy, where we have the van. We will visit our daughter and her family until Monday, and then head home.
I’m disappointed for not completing the 272-mile wilderness trail. I’m proud for having hiked half, even if it is the easier portion. The record breaking rain, the unseasonable cold, and the difficult terrain challenged my physical limitations. Without Dennis’ assistance, I most likely would have dropped out sooner. This was my first—and last—wilderness hike.
In planning future adventures, I will take temperature into account. I can no longer deal with the cold. Perhaps hiking in sunny Italy will be more to my liking.
We were in no hurry to leave the shelter (9:15 AM), thinking that we were going only about 8 miles to Rt 73 (Brandon Gap) where the McKains would meet us. We looked forward to seeing them again and to having a warm shower and sharing a pleasant meal.
On top of a mountain, Dennis suggested getting naked or calling mom. Since there was no coverage, we continued on.
View of Great Cliffs on Mount Horrid
Today and yesterday’s trail was single-path on the side of a hill. Yesterday the hill was to my right; today it is to my left. I preferred yesterday. Having the hill on my right felt safer.
Dennis filtered water from a brook for lunch. I had a peanut butter sandwich and he had sausage. I love the flavor of the chilled mountain water.
The profile map looked like a big hump. In reality, it was a lot of ups and downs. I’ve come to equate the word “gap” with work. At one point we could see across the gap to the Great Cliffs on Mount Horrid. We will have to face those cliffs in a few days.
We stopped at the Sunrise Shelter to use the privy (sometimes referred to as the outhouse, the toilet, but never the latrine) and to call Doug to tell him we would soon be at the crossing. No phone coverage.
When we got to the trailhead there was still no phone service. We asked other hikers but like us, their phones did not work. One woman took down the phone number and said she would call the McKains and tell them we were at Brandon Gap.
We waited two hours. I manicured my nails using my Swiss Army knife, and then read. Finally, Dennis decided to climb up the “‘Great Cliffs” to try to call our hosts. That was when he discovered that we were in the wrong gap and still had nine miles to go.
View from the Great Cliffs on Mount Horrid
We decided to go back into the woods, find a water source, and stealth camp. It was almost a straight up climb up the great cliffs. We took off our packs to climb the last 0.1 miles to the lookout. (How much easier that was without our packs!) Dennis went to the edge to take photos while I stayed back 30 feet or so…I don’t like heights with open spaces.
Sunset on Mount Horrid
We continued up Mount Horrid. I can understand how it got its name—it is a ghastly climb. The sun was setting and we had not found a water source. At this time, the mosquitoes and noseeums came out in force. At times, I could hardly see, there were so many bugs in my eyes. I kept applying repellent, which does not keep the tear-suckers away. For some reason, Dennis does not attract the insects. Lucky him. Perhaps the commingling of my sweat and fear is an insect attraction. Whatever the reason, they drove me crazy.
We continued to hike in the dark for about two hours, my first lengthy night hike. Multiply my fear of going downhill by ten. My fear had us going about 1/4 mile/hr. We arrived at the Sucker Brook Shelter at 10:30. Except for the two hour rest at the trailhead parking lot, we had been traveling all day to complete about 14 miles.
The shelter was full and the best tents sites were taken. We erected ours on a slope near the brook. Dennis filtered water for a cold drink and went to sleep, too exhausted to cook. I was too achy to fall asleep. The pinkie and fourth left foot toenails are black, which mean I may lose the nails. Finally, exhaustion took over and I slept fitfully.
