Thursday, May 29, 2014 La Gleize BE

20140527_125315 Coo train station 300On Tuesday, as we approached the train depot in Coo, Belgium, I told Dennis we would be lucky to have a cow greet us. We did not. There was nothing there but a shelter for those waiting for the train.

At the bottom of the hill we were surprised to find a resort for hiking, biking, canoeing, and kyacking. There even was an amusement park. Of course, it is off-season and nothing except a restaurant was open. The server told us that the closest ATM was in Trois Ponts, three kilometers back. Since we needed cash, we put on our packs and headed for town.

20140529_151417 B and B Les TcheousTrois Ponts would have been the better train stop for us to take. It is a more developed and there are buses that leave the center for La Gleize. We caught the 42A, which dropped us seven kilometers later in La Gleize. From there is was a short 15-minute uphill climb to B & B Tchéous.

Our hosts Christine and Frankie told us that a painter built the house in 1935 and used the attic for his workshop. During WWII the house was under fire and bullet holes are still visible in the building’s wood and stones. When they purchased the house it was in disrepair. The owner’s bathroom had carpeted ceiling, floor, and tiles to keep the air out. The elderly owner said, “Who needs towels, just use the flooring.”

20140528_225548 Mini Les Tcheous dogFrankie is a renowned cyclist and local history buff, so he and Dennis had a lot to chat about. I fell in love with their six-month jachd, a German hunting terrier. She is nearly full grown and very friendly. Since she was the runt of the litter, they called her “Mini.”

Wednesday morning, we visited the museum where Dennis’s father’s helmet is on display. Unfortunately the curator was not there and Dennis was unable to do more research. I know he was disappointed.

Afterwards, we walked to Stoumont, a neighoring town, to build our legs up for The Ridgeway Path in England and to see the area. As we walked, we tried to imagine what fighting in the Ardennes Forest was like in December 1944. The Dennis’s father suffered permanent lung damage here.

20140528_130723 chateau pfeifer stayed 300On the way, we spotted the chateau that Obersturmbannführer Joachim Peiper commandered for several days. Luckily, his whereabouts were not known at the time and the building was not destroyed in an attempt to capture the officer.

Stoumont, is a small village with a handsome central church. At the visitor center, we learned of other WWII sites to visit within walking distance. Returning to La Gleize, the panorama was welcoming. This is a beautiful area.

20140528_144659 La Gleize panorama 300Today is a holiday in the Europe Union: Ascension Thursday. There are many bicyclist and hikers enjoying the area. For some reason, perhaps the hilly terrain, there seems to be more male than female bikers.

20140529_144711 bicylistsAround La Gleize there are many various biking routes…something for everyone and every skill: road, racing, or mountain biking. We saw groups of 50 or more. Dennis was almost salivating with desire to join them.

20140529_131834 Cheneaux monument to the liberatorsWe walked to another neighboring town Cheneux to visit a bridge and house that were important in WWII. Two women ran from the gunfire and took shelter in the farmhouse, which was then bombed, killing both of them. In town, there is a monument to “In homage to the brave men of the 504th parachute infantry regiment of the 82nd Airborne Division, who took back the village on 21 December 1944-at a high cost of lives following bloody combat.” Someone continues to plant flowers in remembrance.

Once again, coming into La Gleize was beautiful. This is the view from the road to Stoumont.20140529_142330 La Gleize panorama from Cheneux

August 31: La Gleize

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAThis morning, Michel de Trez, author and historian (left with Dennis and me), and his friend Françoise picked us up at the B & B to drive us to the December 44 Museum in La Gleize to see Dennis’ father’s WWII paratrooper helmet and other artifacts. Michel had arranged for Dennis to be interviewed by local and national television and he appeared on the national news that evening. Holding the helmet was an emotional moment for Dennis, “I can feel my dad!” Dennis looked at a collection of Michel de Trez’s photos and was able to identify Pvt. Ernest R. Blanchard in several of them.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAAfter the interview, we roamed the museum. When Dennis’ father had talked about fighting at Bastogne, he really meant near there; he actually fought in La Gleize, as records and photos depict. In the museum, there is a Tiger II German tank, which shot 88mm shells. Dennis’ father used to tell him that “the French had hedgerows and the Belgians had the 88”, both which drove him nuts. Looking at the German’s largest tank, you can imagine just how terrifying it must have been for those fighting against it.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERADennis is standing by the Tiger II tank, the only one still on its battlefield, now positioned in front of the museum; there are only nine other surviving tanks.

If you come to Europe, don’t miss visiting the December 44 Museum to really understand the Battle of the Bulge.