Saint-Sauveur-Le-Vicomte, France

June 5, 2024

We had visited Saint-Sauveur-Le-Vicomte in the past with hopes of identifying the location of a picture of Dennis’ father, but we had been unsuccessful. This time, we hit the jackpot!

Picture of Ernest Blanchard in the liberation of Saint-Sauveur-Le-Vicomte

We first stopped at the medieval chateau to speak with the historian. The small museum had testimonials of people who lived in the city during the Liberation. It was moving to read the stories, but only a few were translated.

Chateau St-Sauveur-Le-Vicomte 2 — Chateau St-Sauveur-Le-Vicomte1

The mayor, Eric Briens, identified the locations and took us to the old primary/elementary school where the photo was taken. The building is now the CCVO, a city hall. At last, Dennis had an answer!

The mayor pointing out where the school used to be — Original Picture on city hall corner

When the mayor returned to the office, he emailed the original photo to Dennis and awarded Dennis’ father the city’s medallion—a most rewarding day.

Ravenoville, France

June 4, 2024

Ravenoville is a community of 250 inhabitants, about 1.5 hours’ walk from Sainte Mere Eglise, where the paratroopers first landed during the Liberation. Dennis made a sign, and we hitched to the Eternal Heroes Memorial ceremony to which Dennis had been invited.

Dennis had been here previously, and the olive tree sampling was now about 12 feet tall and bearing fruit. We took a few moments to reflect on his father’s plaque.

Ernest Blanchard's Commemorative Olive Tree — Ernest Blanchard’s Commemorative Olive Tree

The ceremony commenced with a fly-over and lasted about 1.5 hours. Attendees included aged veterans, families of veterans, military officers, and state officials. Following the presentation of The Colors, a military band played the American and French anthems, and then an al Capella group sang the Band of Brothers theme song. The gist of the speeches was liberty, freedom, and the necessity for each individual to vote to ensure a free world. This is particularly important this year because there are more elections worldwide than any other year. Too much is at stake not to take heed and vote wisely.

At the ceremony, Dennis and other relatives of the veterans honored at the memorial were awarded a flag that had flown over the memorial and a medallion commemorating the event.

Following the remembrance commemoration, Dennis enjoyed talking with the attendees. Two sisters gave us a lift back to Sainte Mere Eglise.

Bayeux, France

June 3, 2024

Bayeux is a town in Normandy, 10 kilometers from the English Channel coast. The medieval center contains cobbled streets, half-timbered houses, and the towering Norman-Gothic Cathédrale Notre-Dame. In the cathedral courtyard, a tree was planted in 1797, and they project a 360-degree film onto the trunk. There is also the Tapisserie Museum Bayeux, which we did not visit.

Tree at Cathedral in Bayeux — Gaufre Normande

When we arrived in Bayeax, we stopped at the Bureau du Tourisme to make dinner reservations and visited the town. Our first stop was a cafe to try the “Gaufre Normande,” a special waffle made from risen dough. We will have to learn how to make this mouthwatering waffle.

At 1:30, we met Philippe Gantois on a sidecar motorcycle for a 3.5-hour Normandy Beaches tour. Philippe is a historian who retired from the Gendarmerie in the motorcycle division, so I felt comfortable riding in the sidecar while Dennis sat behind the guide. Our itinerary included Gold Beach (Mulberry B), the German Bunkers, and Omaha Beach. The Mulberrys at Gold Beach were quick-built floating harbors used during the invasion to land over 2.5 million men, 500,000 vehicles, and 4 million tons of supplies before it was fully decommissioned.

Gold Beach D-Day Memorial — Gold Beach War Memorial

The roads were crowded with people and cars, but the guide knew the backroads and easily maneuvered around overheated cars and other blockages. Because of the traffic and the delay at Omaha Beach, where the US Presidential Helicopter Convoy (5 choppers) had a test landing before the President arrived on the 8th, we were more than an hour late returning to Bayeux.

We learned a lot about the invasion while having a great time. Dennis laughed out loud and hooted as he bounced around and acted like “the monkey,” moving from side to side to help the driver steer. Five times, the sidecar lifted off its wheels—it was exhilarating!

Valognes, France

June 1, 2024

We arrived in Valognes on June 1. This town, which the Romans called Alauna in the first century, still has ruins of Roman baths and an imposing theater with more than 3000 seats. In the 15th century, Valognes became the economic and administrative capital of the Cotentin peninsula. In the 17th century, Valagnes became home to the aristocracy. A large part of the town was destroyed by Americans during bombings in June 1944. Reconstruction largely redesigned the city, keeping the “feel” of old French towns.

We were in Valagnes for 8 days. On June 5, we had a very peaceful walk around the old city, visiting the public gardens, the Parcheminerie, a 15th-century building that now houses the office of Pays d’Art et d”Historie, the boundary wall of the Cordelier convent, the washing place, and other 16-18th-century buildings.

Fountain in Public Park — Entrance in Public Park

Le Havre, France

Le Havre (The Harbor) is located at the mouth of the Seine in Normandy. After WWII, the city was completely rebuilt. Because of Auguste Perret’s unusual designs and concrete architecture, the city center became a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2005.

Coming off the ship, we faced a yard full of large cylindrical objects that Dennis soon identified as windmill blades. From the ground, these wind generator blades appear much smaller.

We walked around the city and up numerous steps to a viewing point. Then, we walked through Square Saint-Roch with its meandering paths, statues, and flowering plants and shrubs.

St. Joseph’s Church was designed by Auguste Perret. Sitting in a pew and looking up the spire, you can see the stained glass that decorates the building. The spire also serves as a lighthouse.

St. Joseph Church, Le Havre — St. Joseph Church

Monday, June 9, 2014 Cherbourg, FR

There was no breakfast at the hotel this morning, on Monday’s they do not open until 9 am and we had to catch the 8:43 bus. We were not informed about this when we paid in advance, but we were able to get reimbursed. After leaving 12 frantic messages at the bike shop yesterday, we were glad when the proprietor met us there around 8:00 AM to exchange the helmets and bike for our deposit.

We waited an hour at the bus stop, but the bus never showed up. Thinking we missed it, we went to the Post Office to mail a package home, but that was closed. Back at the hotel we found out that it was Pentecost Day and that everything was closed.

To take a cab to Cherbourg FR (port city in Normandy, above) where we were to take the 5 PM ferry would cost 120€ (about $170) so we decided to hitch. As Dennis was writing a sign a British couple arrived and they offered to take us to Carentan FR, but Dennis would have to sit in the back of a box truck with no light or windows and with a stuffed fox, deer head, and cow skins, along with other items they were purchasing to take back to England. We jumped at their offer. They even offered to mail our box for us—such angels!

In Carentan, we took the train (running on holiday schedule) to Cherbourg. Last year this town was buzzing with activity…this time, the streets were deserted (picture left). We found an open café and sat there munching on a Croque Monsieur and talking to patrons. We spoke with Air Force captains who flew over Normandy yesterday dropping the parachutists. One, Capt. Jake Fuchs, flew the third C-130 troop transport plane in the group. He was enjoying this event very much. The other Captain is the doctor that was in the drop zone on the ground. He was on hand to deal with any medical emergencies or injuries, but he was pleased to report it was an uneventful day, thank goodness. They were both thrilled that the day went so well.

From town, we walked about a mile to the port. On the way there while watching a man outrun bicyclists, I jammed my foot into a post and re-injured my foot. I hope my blackened toe will not prevent me from hiking.

We are now on British time, now only 5 hours difference from the US.

Sunday, June 8, 2014 Utah Beach

The little Peugeot. struggled up the hills as we made our way to Utah Beach. At one point the sparrows were flying faster than we were moving. Our top speed going down hill was 35 mph. But the little engine took us about 55 miles round trip, in about 2 hours. It looked so tiny compared to the “big boys” though we were never the envy of the other riders.

We were lucky to see a herd of about 40 horses running through the fields, enjoying the cool weather and early morning. We also saw 900 parachutists jump with the old-style chutes using a static line. They came, wave after wave, in groups of 5 to 20 jumpers.

For miles around the jump site, people lined the streets and it was difficult to get around, even with the small scooter. In Sainte-Marie-du-Mont, depicted in the television series Band of Brothers, was the first village to be liberated during the D-Day disembarkment at Utah Beach. There, the re-enactors erected a bivouac. There were a variety of army vehicles and people clad in the old-style uniforms. We even saw a parade of locals dressed in 40s garb and pushing baby buggies and riding old bikes. Lots of polka-dotted dresses. All the stores and cafés were full. We managed to buy a drink in the grocery store, and then sit on the commons to watch the people.

From there we proceeded to Utah Beach. The beach is lovely and at low tides revealed the long approach.

Unlike 70 years ago, there is aquaculture on the beaches. We could see the large tables, but could not tell what was being farmed.

There are a few monuments and statues and a museum. As we walked around the beach, there was a flyover and Dennis managed to capture one of the planes. Later during the day, he also captured the C47 in full battle paint for D-Day. It wore these colors so it wouldn’t be attacked by the allies.

We returned to Sainte-Mère-Église to identify a few buildings that were mentioned in a book we bought that captures eye-witness statements about that night. Though written in French, I hope to translate it for Dennis and help him better understand what his father experienced.

Again today we saw a biking club–all wearing the same red, blue, white shirts. A police motorcycle preceded the 1000 or more riders. This was not a race, but folks out for a pleasure ride.

We arrived back in La Haye-du-Puits in the late afternoon and everything in town is quite…all the stores and restaurants, except for a kebab/pizzeria are closed. Luckily I overheard heard someone mention it in the hotel, and we grabbed fair food in Sainte-Mère-Église,

June 7, 2014 Saint-Sauveur-le-Vicomte

Searching for dad

We put-puttered north for about 6 miles (10 km) to Saint-Sauveur-le-Vicomte to see if we could determine the location of the above photos. Dennis’s dad is the upper right man in the top photo and the one standing third from the left and near the blur of the flash in the lower picture.

After visiting the château (below) we went to the museum. It was a literary one, not one about the town, and was of no help. They did suggest we visit the florist who had interest in WWII and a display in her shop’s window. She suggested we talk with Mde. Paulette Marie (right), who was fifteen at the time of liberation and who might be able to pinpoint where the pictures were taken.

She most graciously accepted us in her home and talked with us for about an hour. She took out a collection of pre-WWII postcards of the town to see if we could identify the location from these. We could not. She suggested that the photos could have been taken in a courtyard.

After leaving her, we stopped at an old café. Though the owner was young, he recognized the upper photo from a promo leaflet; he did not know where it was taken. We left the town no wiser than before we arrived.

Friday, June 6, Sainte-Mère-Église, FR

D-Day +70 years

We replaced the bicycles with a motor scooter. We buzzed (like a hive of bees) to Sainte-Mère-Église, travelling only about twice as fast as we did peddling. The highest speed was around 30 mph (50 km). Dennis commented that the motorbike was giving it its all to climb the hills, but so was I the day before.

The weather was perfect with clear skies and temps in the mid 70s, though it was a bit windy. The locales were all dressed in summer outfits and getting sun-burned. 20140606_164156 D-day celebrations

In town, about 20, 000 people (perhaps more) filled the streets. All ages and nationalities. There was a sense of expectancy and excitement. Around the square there were perhaps twenty each beer and sausage pavilions, as well as ice cream and crepes vendors, souvenirs stands, and recruiters for the French military.

From the band stand the politicians droned on and the men’s choir sang an occasional song, either nationalistic or from the 40s. The acoustics were terrible. We stood in line for about an hour to buy a sausage sandwich for Dennis, and then sat in the shade for him to eat it. Sitting near us was a family from Normandy dressed in military garb. The little girl was darling. Many people photographed that family, and the boy was very willing to pose.

At 5 PM there was a fly-over with the C47s and the parade started. There were 1200 Americans marching in the band, mostly ROTC and high school bands, some carrying photos of relatives. Several returning vets paraded in military vehicles or were pushed in wheel chairs. You can see how happy he was. This morning the paper reported that a British veteran was found and returned to his nursing home; he was bound for Normandy and the celebrations–many were here in spirit if not in body.

Later that evening there were more celebrations and fireworks, but we left after the parade.

Thursday, June 5, 2014 Ravenoville, FR

We rented mountain bikes today to bicycle to Ravenoville, FR about 24 miles (40 km) from La Haye-du-Puits. By the time we got there, I almost in tears because the bike was not fitted for me and caused me pain. We did not know the area and made a few wrong turns, but managed to get there prior to the invitations-only commemoration honoring the American Airborne soldiers who liberated the town on D-Day +1.

Several veterans now in their 90s where honored personally. Other family members represented those who could not make it or were deceased.

To open the ceremony, a woman sang the American, French, and German national anthems. Of course, there was recognition all the dignitaries and introduction of each veteran that was present. (Jim “Peewee” Martin was missing, having gone to jump from a plane). William Sullivan, who was in the 82nd 505th Headquarters as was Dennis’s father, was also present, but he left before Dennis could speak with him. Hopefully they will meet up before we leave.

Dennis planted an olive tree, the symbol of peace, near the plaque for his father. At the end of the ceremony 18 trees surrounded the monument.

There was a presentation of the colors, a fly over by the C47s, and then each honoree (or family representative) was given a bronze statue representing an Airborne paratrooper. The figurines are cast of bronze and finished one at a time. The unique figurines are numbered. The one Dennis received is number 50, while the person next to him received number 1–the gift of the draw. These statues were a surprise and very moving occasion.

The ceremony ended with the theme song from Band of Brothers. I had never heard the song and both Dennis and I were moved to tears by it.

Since I was too sore to ride back, I hitched a ride to Sainte-Mère-Église on a Belgian 1.5 ton, WW II US military fire truck. It was a nice ride back, and I enjoyed talking the real-life firemen who were re-enacting the WWII fire brigade.

Dennis, stayed to see if he could talk to the veterans and have a glass of champagne. I was surprised to see him so quickly and we skedaddled to the bus stop to catch the bus, which was late as we expected. This was good because we were able to put the bikes in the baggage storage under the bus, and make it back to La Haye-du-Puits in time to return the bikes. We then made plans to return in the morning to rent a scooter.

Since the sun does not set until after 10 pm, our eating habits are screwed up. We had a late supper and then turned in, tired by the days adventures.