Portugal Archives - Woman on Her Way

June 22: Arcade

All the rest yesterday paid off. We walked about 25 km (15.5 mi) today, including two steep hills amounting to 388 m (1273 ft) climbs. The descents were more arduous than the rises, but provided us with beautiful vistas. Descending Monte Cornedo we could see Redondela in the distance. (left)

We stopped at the central square in Redondela to put on sunscreen and cool our feet. From there, we proceeded to Arcade, a small town on the Vigo River. The hill up was draining me…all I wanted was a lemonade or an ice cream. Just when I thought it would be possible, the road veered and we climbed some more. I was drenched by the time we peaked the mountain, where we took off our packs to let our shirts dry. As we rested, seven bicigrinos on mountain bikes passed us…I can’t imagine how difficult a climb that was for them.

As we entered Arcade, we spotted this shrine to pilgrims on the wall of someone’s house. People left small items in the grotto.

I am always amazed at how lovely the interior of hotels are compared to the ancient outsides. The same is true for homes; as I peer into open doors or windows, the modern interiors seem incongruous to the exteriors.

June 20: Tui, Spain

Yesterday when we left Ponte de Lima, it was only 14 C (57 F), cloudy, and with a 50% chance of rain. For this reason, I put on all my rain gear and covered the backpack. After three hours, all my clothes were wet from perspiration; the plastic rain coat and pants preventing evaporation; but at least I was warm. Yesterday was the most difficult stage of the Camino Portuguese with a steep climb to Portela Grande at 405 m (1329 ft). At one point, I was holding onto roots, branches, and rocks to keep from falling backwards. Halfway up was a monument to Michelle Kleist , pilgrim, who was killed in a plane crash in Moree, Australia, on 30 March 2011. This reminded me of the Iron Cross on the Camino Frances. The descent is usually harder for me, but this was not too steep and I did just fine. It was a glorious day.

That night we stayed in a pension in São Rogue where the bath and electronics had Dennis laughing. He had to fix the shower doors before we could shower, then the water drained too slowly and I had to shut the water to prevent the basin from spilling out onto the floor. Additionally two of the three bulbs in the bathroom were missing.

When we checked into the pension we were told there was WIFI but that the son would have to type in the password. (You are probably wondering why there was such secrecy—we did). Unfortunately, after all that commotion, the WIFI did not work.

Today started off cold but warmed up. We had a short uphill walk and before we knew it we were on a 16-km downhill walk to Spain. This afternoon, we stopped on a hillside for a picnic lunch and for Dennis to set up his amateur radio station. He wanted to make radio contact with people while still in Portugal and this was his last opportunity. We were there for about 2.5 hrs, long enough for the sun to disappear behind clouds. I read the book The Alchemist by Paulo Coelho while he “conversed” via Morse code.

We visited the fortressed city of Valença, Portugal It was very commercial with lots of shops selling linen and clothes. It is a maze of streets which made it difficult to leave. From there, we crossed the Minho (Portuguese name) or Miño (Spanish name) River into Tui, Spain. We are staying in a pension not far from the cathedral. It was such a relief to not have to eat a Portuguese meal. It seems most restaurants for the past 20 days have cod, trout, or pork or veal cutlets with salad and French fries. Tonight, I had a lentil soup and Dennis had a pasta salad for first; we both had meatballs (pork) for second.

June 18: Ponte de Lima

Left Tamel (São Pedro Fins) and within 15 minutes we needed to put on all our rain gear. Of course, once we had it all on, it stopped raining. We had to walk 1.5 hours before coffee…you would have laughed to see me almost run down the hill to the cafe. It’s amazing how hungry hikers can get; even with a late supper, we awaken with rumblings for food.

Because of recommendations, we planned to stay at Casa de Fernanda, a private home that provides accommodations for nine pilgrims in a newly built bungalow. We were also looking forward to a short day, wanting our feet to recover from the cobblestones. Best decision–especially because it rained all afternoon.

When we arrived, there were two people there from Brazil, one a priest. After a short while, four South Africans from Capetown arrived, and then a doctor from Germany. Once we got settled in and had lunch in the hosts’ lovely kitchen, we returned to the cabin where we enjoyed an adult “pajama party”. Two of the South Africans went to the market and returned with six bottles of red wine and two of port. We spent the afternoon warm, comfy, and sheltered, sipping vinho tinto and regaling at each other’s stories. I had tried to write in my journal but quickly put it away to partake in the camaraderie.

That evening the hosts Fernanda, Jacinto, and their daughter Marianna served us a delicious “supa verde”, kale soup, and salad from their garden, homemade bread, and baked chicken which they raised. After the meal, they extended their hospitality with stories, and regional songs and dances. What fun! Thank you, Ingrid and Tracy, for the recommendation.

After breakfast and goodbyes, we had a leisurely walk to Ponte de Lima. This was one of our best days for walking–easy climbs, mostly asphalt, and ideal weather. In Ponte de Lima, the winds picked up and it got cooler as the clouds went over the mountain. I expect rain again tonight.

We had lunch near the bridge (Ponte de Lima). I have been craving a tuna fish sandwich and this cafe offered one. When traveling in a foreign country, one must be open to variations in customs. Dennis and I laughed; this sandwich not only contained lettuce, tomato, and tuna, but also ham, cheese, and a fried egg. Once again, I was ravenous and quickly consumed the sande.

Tonight we will try a local, spicy stew (Arroz Sarrabulho) …something different from the ubiquitous fried cod, sardines, or pork steak. Tomorrow is supposed to be our hardest day as we climb 18 km (11 mi) over the mountain. The day after that we should be in Spain.

June 16: Tamel (São Pedro Fins)

To avoid congested inner city streets through industrial parks, we took the metro in Porto to Vilar do Pinheiro and then walked to São Pedro de Rates 19.4 km (12 mi) away. It was probably the most difficult walk to date, mostly on cobble-stoned pathways which pounded our feet like meat tenderizers. Since this is the first day for many pilgrims on the Camino Portuguese, the alberque (pilgrim hostel) had a medic to care for the peregrinos’ feet. I was unsure if I could walk the next day, but a night’s sleep did wonders.

As we approached our destination, we could hear loud music and PA system. Nothing puts fear in a hiker’s heart as a festival. Yesterday was St. Anthony’s Feast Day and there were a carnival, songfest and fireworks to celebrate. The noise finally stopped after midnight, making for a short repose.

Today’s walk to Tamel (São Pedro Fins) was 25.3 km (15.7 mi) but a lot easier on the feet. We past many small villages, wonderful floral and vegetable gardens, and several towns. Dennis posed with the Barcelos cockerel. Once again, there was a fiesta in town, with artisan booths, local foods, and a singing band. There are many fiestas in this country, maybe more than in Spain.

It took us about 2 hours to walk from Barcelos to Tamel (São Pedro Fins). The route was uneventful except for the last 2 km or so climb to the top. Why are the hostels always at the top of hill, when pilgrims are most tired? We beat the rain, barely, and the weather should be inclement for the next several days.

June 14: Porto

We left Coimbra around 10 and arrived in Porto around 12:30. Porto is the largest city I have seen in Portugal, with large buildings and plazas that remind me of Madrid, Spain. The train station, Sao Bento is adorned with blue and white tiles. Leaving the station, I was dwarfed by tall stone buildings that prevented the sun from reaching the streets.

We found a reasonably priced hotel, Residencia Solar, on Rua Santa Catarina. The room is cramped but the bed is comfy and the WIFI is the strongest we’ve seen in Portugal.

After getting settled in we went for lunch and then to the cathedral to get our pilgrim’s passport stamped. The building looks more like a fort than a place to worship. Surprisingly, the inside is very narrow, and dark.

From the plaza in front of the cathedral is a vista point overlooking the city. I counted eight churches in the area. Each has a different look, possibly reflecting the various epochal styles. It was windy on the hill near the cathedral and I could smell the salty Atlantic.

The Rio Douro divides the city. From Ponte Luis, you can look down to the boats and gondolas on the river. Porto, to me, is one of the nicest European metropolis, very clean, and easy to get around in. Tomorrow we leave it to continue on towards Santiago; the Way promises to be scenic, with more pilgrims and pilgrim’s accommodations.

After an Italian dinner, we said goodbye to our German pilgrim friends who are returning home tomorrow. Dennis and I enjoyed our time with Tomas, Irma, and Andres–we shared a lot of laughs.

June 13: Coimbra

We left Rabacal at 8:09, planning to have breakfast in the next town (Zambujal) 3.2 km (2.5 mi) away. As we approached the town, I told Dennis that from now on we needed to eat before hiking; I was running out of energy. In town, we discovered that the cafe does not open until 1 P.M. Luckily I had some cookies and had them with watered-down Gatorade for breakfast. Our next chance for sustenance was 7.5 km away–more than two hours of walking.

It was a gorgeous day and the walk alternated between single-tract field paths, to cobble-stones, to asphalt, to dirt. In Fonte Coberta, the town has recently erected blue and white Portuguese tiles (2113) at the entrance and exit and on various monuments and buildings. It is a poor town that is taking pride in the Camino de Santiago. This quaint village has a water fountain and picnic area at the end of town. We were stopped there when our German pilgrim friends arrived. (Irma, Tomas, and Andres whose birthday it is today.) We walked from the fountain to Conimbriga together. We were all happy to arrive and find a place to eat.

Dennis and I got sunburned in the early morning sun. I on the back of my legs and arms. Because of the light breeze, I never suspected that I was turning red. Now that the sun is shinning most of the day, we will have to be more diligent in applying sunblock.

In Conimbriga we took a city bus to Coimbra because most of the remainder of the day’s walk was on asphalt and busy and dangerous streets. Its was a wise decision. Looking at the guidebook, we decided to take the train tomorrow to Porto, and then continue to Santiago on foot. Though I had initially thought of doing the coastal route, Dennis and I miss the camaraderie of having other pilgrims traveling with us. Consequently we decided to take the more traditional route, hoping to find other peregrinos.

June 12: Rabacal

Perfect day, at last. We left Ansiao around 11 A.M., after running a few errands. The sun was shining and the temps were near 70 F. For most of the day we walked on dirt paths–so much better than yesterday’s pavement. Along the narrow cart paths were flowers, birds, butterflies with occasional sheep, goats, and chickens, and one snake. No dogs chased us; yesterday a pack of 5 snarly canines tried to attack us. Dennis used his hiking pole and I screamed, which caused a lady to run out and calm the dogs.

It was hot enough today for us to add Gatorade to our water bottles. In Alvorge, we stopped at a cafe to buy ice cream (I love the fact that I can eat about anything I want without putting on weight). The proprietor, Victor Jose Guiomar was delighted with our visiting his establishment. He told us all about the pilgrims who have stopped there, showed us his collection of foreign money, and posed for a picture. We spoke in French. This is the part of the Camino I treasure.

After Alvorge, we climbed up a hill that reminded me of the terrain above the treeline in the White Mountains of NH. There were scrub brush, portulacas, wild flowers, poppies, and stony paths. We rested at the top where it was very peaceful and a cool breeze dried our sweaty bodies. From the top we still had over an hours walk to Rabacal, so we did not stay there too long.

We are amazed at how often we have no idea where we are. We come into small hamlets, even towns, that are not listed on the map. Most have no signs telling us the town’s name. At intersections, the signs don’t give the distances to the next towns, so we can’t judge by those. Of course, the guidebook is of little help because we don’t know where we are. Thank goodness the Via Lusitana has been so thorough in painting the yellow arrows. Without these, we would be really lost.

June 11: Ansiao

Yesterday, I had no Internet connection; we were very rural. We hiked a full stage: 31.3 km (over 19 mi) to Alvaiazere. The last 6 km seemed to go on forever. We stayed in a nice residencial called Bras. Since it was a fiesta day, there were very few people about. I think we say 5 or 6 old people all day. All the cafes and markets were closed; nothing to eat or drink along the way. Luckily we has stopped at a mini market and picked up sardines for an afternoon snack.

The residencial provided a substantial breakfast which was good since there were no places to eat today. We should have walked 14.5 km today (half of the planned staged) but go lost and walked an extra 8 to 10 km. Another long day resulting in tired feet and legs. It is comical to see us limp around. At this point, we are planning on taking a day off from hiking tomorrow, unless we feel as if we can hike 19 km (end of this stage) to Rabacal (population of 1000). Will decide in A.M.

On the way to Ansiao, we walked on dirt paths on ancient oxcart paths bordered with tall stone walls, on cobble-stoned streets through small hamlets, on paved roads, on dirt and muddy trails. Everything rippled up or down; it was seldom flat.

Dennis and I were watching a woman cart out compost to the field and did not realize we were at a crucial intersection, and consequentially missed a right turn. As a result, we walked about 8 to 10 km over a mountain and back to where we got lost. Why is it that I listened to Dennis when he says we are heading in the right directions and the road is just over the next rise?

The weather for the past two days has been cold and cloudy; not great for taking pictures. Promises of better weather for Thursday.

June 9: Tomar

We are starting to get into our stride–walked 22.5 km (14) today. It was cold and rainy when we started, warmed enough to make it comfortable for walking, and remained overcast all day. The road was filled with snails, which the Portuguese collect for food. This evening, the Templar town of Tomar, the restaurant specialty was snails. People eat them with a toothpick and wash it down with a beer. Seemed like to much work for me.

June 8: Golega

Because Dennis’ foot is still suffering, we decided to take the train to Santarem. It took us only 26 minutes to travel what would have taken us 8 to 10 hrs of walking. Near the plaza of the Igreja N. S. da Conceioao (Our Lade of Conception) we went to the tourist office to locate a room. There were none available. There is a week-long fair which has taken most of the rooms. After spending about an hour, we found a room in a town 30 km away, thanks to Jose Luis Sanchez who gave us the phone number when we met with him. Leonor even came to the train station to take us to her Casa da Tia Guida.

When we arrived, we noticed that Nigel Sunman from Cambridge UK was here last night. We met him in Lisboa the day before we left. He must be an incredibly fast walker, and he is carrying half the weight we are. We are sharing the place with three other pilgrims. Nice to be having others with us.

After registering, we explored Golega, a town dedicated to horsemanship. Many signs and statues have figures of horses; in November, there is an equestrian fair and a running of the bulls.

Rain predicted again for tomorrow with temps overnight around 50 F.