Glorious walk—perfect hiking weather, wonderful vistas, good food, and a good companion. We pounded our feet for 35.4 km (almost 22 miles); at the end of the day my legs were sore, but thank goodness for ibuprofen.
Dennis and I are amazed by all the rock in Spain and Portugal. They use granite for fence post, buildings, roads, picnic tables, plazas, and you name it; white stone for cobbled sidewalks; marble inside and outside homes. Large granite slabs are often stacked like we would stack firewood. The mountain trails are stoney (or wet). Everywhere there is rock, and yet the ground is fertile and gardens abound.
Since it was Sunday, we had to walk 2.5 hours and over Alto de Canicouva at 145 m (900 ft). Coffee tasted so good I had two cups. As we crossed the old section of Pontevedra, we saw the 18th century chapel Santuario da Perregrina, shaped like a scallop shell. Nine miles later and dreaming of a beefburger, we arrived at San Amaro. To my delight, the had beef hamburgesas.
We arrived at Caldas de Reis to find a festival. There were music, games, and inflatables for the kids. The albergues were full with teenagers from nearby towns and they opened the school to accommodate pilgrims. We stayed in a hotel near the river, not knowing that it was near the center of that evenings activity.
After washing up, we sat by the river, enjoying the sun, and eating local foods. We shared a meat empanada (mine is better) and octopus grilled with garlic and spices. We were in heaven, perfect way to end a perfect day. Until…
We returned to the hotel. About 10 P.M. the music started, not more than 100 feet from out hotel room. At midnight there was fireworks coming out of a small building constructed for the occasion and which they subsequently burned down. After the pyrotechnics, the music restarted. The fiesta is the Bonfire of St. John and 24 June is regarded as the Catalan nation day, similar to our 4th of July. They had really good singers, but I was exhausted and wanted sleep. At last, I remembered my earplugs which muffled the noise enough for me to fall asleep. Dennis said they were still partying it at 4:30 A.M. The Spaniards know how to enjoy themselves.
We were forewarned that most cafes would be closed in the morning. Since we are walking only 18.1 km (11 miles), we are not rushing out today. Dennis is using his amateur radio as I write this blog. We will mostly start to walk around 10:30 or 11: 00 A.M. Tomorrow we should be in Santiago.
Dear Jane:
I don’t want to rain on your parade but I read about your having hamburgers. Since Dennis has had a 5-bypass heart surgery, he (and so should you) should be on a heart-healthy plant-based diet, which I have found almost impossible to do when one travels. If interested, perhaps that is something you can both look into on your return. I can help if you’re interested. And we have a treasure of an expert in town, Jill Edwards, who is the nutrition expert with the Cardiac Rehab Unit, whose 36-week course I took, at Sarasota Memorial Hospital. I had an article about this published in the online “Sarasota News Leader,” which is on my website.
Sonia,
We both prefer vegetable-based diets; but, every once and a while, we try something different. It amazes me the different ideas about food. Today I ordered a vegetable sandwich and it came with ham and cheese. “You never know what you’ll get.”
Hi Jane and Dennis, you both look fantastic. We miss you in Sarasota but we are holding down the fort. Wishing you both happiness, peace and fun. Enjoy your time together and stay healthy and happy!
In Sisterhood,
Jen
Jen,
thanks for following along…we are doing well, though we’re ready for a change. Looking forward to England…if only to test my mojo.
It amazes me to hear how many festivals and celebrations there are over there in Spain and Portugal. How on earth do the locals ever get anything done? I’m glad you’re having a good time. Congratulations on approaching Santiago.
hi jane and dennis-
yes i remember the partying in the big cities in 2011-burgos, leon. and pamplona. in leon someone even set a dumpster on fire. glad to here that your’re near santiago.
where are you all going after you reach santiago ?
Philip,
I think we will do the British Isles next. Have you been there?
The party reminds me of Longronos. Crazy all night long.
Octopus, I miss good grilled octopus.
I am almost across the UK, four more days. Then off to Scotland.
Sue/Hammock Hanger
Sue,
I hope you are enjoying your trip. We will be in Santiago tomorrow and then were off to England. Do you have any recommendations?