May 30: Santiago

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAA lot has happened since Sahagún. We left town late, waiting for the shops to open to buy spare tubes after having the three flats. It was a lovely day for a ride, warming up with the sun and easy rolling hills. We decided to stay at Mansilla de las Mulasat the albergue Amigos del Peregrino where we stayed two years ago because they have a gas paella grill.  After we settled in, we walked around the town taking photos and then we had a glass of beer/wine, complements of Michel Sanchez. Dennis tried on a pilgrim costume and I tought he looked authentic. We found four OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAother pilgrims willing to share the paella. Michel and I went shopping, and then everyone joined in the preparations. I missed this community activity earlier on the Camino Juame where there we so few pilgrims, and am glad to get back to it on the Camino Frances.

We left Mansilla in the cold weather and could see that it was snowing in the mountains. About 4 miles from León, we stopped at the famous Bar La Torre in Arcahueja. Michel and I both added to the wall mural. There were other pilgrims there who were also adding their mark to the bar front. I wonder how often the owner paints over everything, providing a clean slate for other pilgrims.

We arrivOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAed in León midday. Our plan was to quickly see the city and cathedral and then move on. And then I fell on a curb, barely 1.5 inches tall, which I did not see. Thinking nothing was wrong, I started to get up and then felt a sting. Looking at my leg, I found that I had gashed it across the kneecap. When Michel saw the 4-in. gap, he went in search of medical help. In the mean time, a person walking by saw my leg and ran to the pharmacy for saline solution, Benedictine, and gauze. He cleaned the wound, wrapped it, and left. It happened so fast, that I never had time to thank the Good Samaritan. Very quickly the rescue came and took me to the hospital, with Dennis trying to keep up on his bike. When he lost track of the ambulance, Dennis tried with his limited Spanish to get directions. At last, a Spaniard asked if he spoke German, and then proceed to explain the way to him. Dennis was relieved and grateful to her.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAI received about 20 stitches and instructions to stay off the bike for at least a month. Consequently our plans changed. I have no regret about taking the train from León to Santiago, nor about missing the hills, the snow, and the front West winds. I do regret not having been able to say goodbye to Michel.

Since only the local trains take bicycles, it took us eight hours by train to ride about 200 miles between León and Santiago. It was pleasant and we got to see a lot of Galicia and the rural country side. The disadvantage was that we arrived in Santiago at 12:30 A.M., only to find that a convention had filled all the hotels. After pushing my bike around town for almost two hours, a kind hotel receptionist found us a room on the outskirts of the city, near Monte de Gozo. A taxi drove us there and we climbed into bed–exhausted–about 3:00 A.M.

Today, we retrieved our backpacks from the UPS store, did some shopping, check on the train schedule for Lisbon, and took a long nap. Tomorrow we will finish our preparations and, most likely, leave for Lisbon the following day.

Author: Jane V. Blanchard

I am an award-winning author of the "Woman On Her Way" book series, writing about my travel adventures. For more information on the books, please visit janevblanchard.com. I started the "Woman On Her Way" travel blog in 2013 to share my experiences as I explored 13 countries with my husband, traveling by ship, foot, bike, bus, train, and plane. Dennis and I continue to make memories and hope you will enjoy following along.

26 thoughts on “May 30: Santiago”

  1. I am so so sorry to hear of your fall. That just sucks. Oh well, one adventure ends and another begins. Take not to walk too far too fast and rip those stitches. (8 days for me!)

    Buen Camino

    Sue

  2. You’ll do anything to get off those bikes, won’t you? 🙂

    Seriously, sorry you had such a nasty boo-boo. But onward and upward … no biking for a month, but you can hike? Don’t over-do it — your leg needs time to heal. If it was me, I’d take about a week off before starting to hike, but that’s just me.

    T-Rex would gladly trade his tiny arms for your knee boo-boo.

    Be careful — you’ve already had enough injuries for the whole six months!

    1. Elizabeth, I plan to take it easy. It will be about a week before I start to hike the Camino and carry serious weight. Trying to sort out what to take in the backpack. We got spoiled with the for panniers on each bike.

  3. Jane, you’re driving me crazy with the falls! When do you start having FUN, or did I miss that part?
    Be careful, girl!

    1. Liz,

      The entire Camino has been fun, even though I have had a few mishaps and the Way has been difficult. I do believe, though, the Portugal will be a lot easier and more enjoyable. Looking forward to seeing something I have not yet seen.

    1. Ingrid, Don’t feel sorry…I am still having a wonderful adventure and loving every moment of it. Plans change, no big deal. I am ready for Portugal.

      Biking the Camino, in my experience, is so much harder than walking it, even without my injuries.

  4. I have to say, Jane is one tough lady. I’d be wimping around looking for sympathy and crying in my beer. She limped around for two hours in the wee morning hours looking for a hotel with an injury that would have had me pleading for mercy. She never complained.

    Onward, and upward…

    Dennis

  5. Well, Jane, I hope you make it back here with all your arms and legs intact. Sorry about the fall.

    1. Dave, I hope to return in good form. I am still debating about riding the bike for the rest of the way. I will let my body heal, and then decide if we will walk or bike throughout the rest of our journey.

  6. wow jane you’ve had some tough breaks-20 stitches.
    luckily spain had some wonderful doctors. if you can’t ride for a month, can you walk?

    thank God for the camino angels !!!

    1. Phil, Walking is getting easier each day. We picked up or backpacks yesterday, liking putting on an old friend. I am looking forward to walking.

    1. No, Lillian. We are heading for Lisbon Spain and will start our Camino Portugese on foot. I can walk ok and will have my stitches removed next week. All should be better then.

  7. dennis and jane- here’s the info for the hotel in lisbon again.

    gohostelisboa on rua maria da fonte in the old part of town. great location, wonderful staff, great food
    and a outside picnic area. they also have movies and dvd’s and a lot of portuguese tv is in english.

  8. Life sure throws in little curves not and then, doesn’t it? Sounds like you have mastered how to cope with them and still have the very best time.

  9. Greetings from Canada…have been following your pilgrimage with great interest and with
    very good memories of our time together two years ago. So sorry about your fall but you have
    a determined spirit and each bump along The Way is a challenge and lesson…hope that you are
    able to walk and walking slowly is a good way to experience the walk fully. Peace…Cheryl Kinney Matheson

    1. Cheryl,

      Thanks for following along. I am so looking forward to the Camino Portuguese. I won’t hurry because I want to enjoy every second of it.

      Hope all is well with you.

  10. Hi Jane……sorry about the knee accident! It looks like quite a gash. You have had quite an adventure, that’s for sure. Is there another book in this trip? Best wishes to yourself and Dennis as you continue on to Madrid. Take care.
    Grace

  11. Omy! What a day to you, Jane
    I’m so glad that you are Ok! Whew, just 20 stitches…
    Yeah, thinking nothing is wrong!
    Be careful! Even, while we walk… Or talk…
    Thank God, angels are near us, and watch us… But, no biking for a month!
    Heal well, take care… You are a brave woman;-)!
    Do you know what? I don’t know how to ride bike. I tried to learn after 60… I do not want to break my bone… after fell several times, funny!?!

    1. Jae,

      Thanks for your comments, I too was feeling apprehensive of riding, fearing falling again and doing serious damage. Seems that decision to walk instead if much wiser.

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