Woman on Her Way

August 15: Greencarts

This morning I tried to pay my bill at the B & B, but the credit card was denied—twice. After contacting the Visa, I discovered that the credit card had been hacked and that someone had tried to purchase $10,000 worth of games on it. I was lucky that my the credit card company watches for fraud and abuses, and had blocked the card. Unfortunately, I am traveling in Europe and using the credit card has been the way we pay for our accommodations, meals, and just about everything. Not having the credit card was going to be an inconvenience.

I contacted our credit union and they offered to FedEx the replacement card to our B & B; it should be here tomorrow or Saturday the latest. I am so grateful at the assistance provided us by the Information Center Specialist at the Digital Credit Union.

We took the bus to Greencarts. Its only about nine miles away, but took about an hour to get there. The driver was very accommodating, dropping us off at an unscheduled drop. From the road we walked about a half mile to the B & B. Dennis was spent and went to bed.

In the afternoon, we took the bus to Hexham to get cash out of the ATM, go to the pharmacy, and purchase a few groceries. We had 45 minutes to scurry back to catch the last bus of the day. We had the same driver as in the morning, and he again dropped us off at Greencarts.

Hopefully Dennis will be better tomorrow.

August 14: Housesteads

Starting from Once Brewed and heading East is a steep ascent that gets the heart pumping. At the top of this climb, we took a 20-minute rest. Dennis awoke unwell this morning, but insisted on continuing the walk. The climb up the hill exhausted him; the break allowed him to continue forward. He is such a trooper.

Today there was just a slight wind to our backs and, for the first time on this walk, I rolled up my sleeves–guess I am acclimatizing, because it was only in the low 60’s.

Milecastle 39 has only a north and south entrance, unlike many that have four gates. This section of the Wall (from Once Brewed to Housesteads and then to Vindolanda, where there is a Roman Fort and Museum) attracts many tourists, as evidenced in the picture on the right. Most people are day hikers without packs; there are many children and dogs. We saw a wide-eyed brother and sister walking with swords; the brother ready to defend the family from horse thieves . I guess he did not quite grasp the historical meaning of the wall.

Descending into Sycamore Gap (left) provides this unique view and is probably one of the most photographed gaps on Hadrian’s ‘Wall. Some of my movie-buff friends may recognize the tree from “Robin Hood, Prince of Wales” where a boy was rescued by Kevin Kostner.

Archeologists are waiting for the tree to die so they can excavate the gap, believing that will unearth a lot of artifacts.

The wall here is very wide (right). Dennis is six feet tall and, as he lies on the wall, the wall is much wider.

Shortly after this gap, we walked in a forest. Until then, I did not realize how much I missed the woods or how accustomed I had become to the open fields, sheep, and cattle. I found the trees very comforting.

Dennis and I love to talk with other hikers. Benn, now eleven, started hiking when he was five.He has hiked in the Lakes District, a mountainous region in Northwest England, and in the Alps. Today’s walk must have been a breeze for him.

He is a very talented guitarist and his grandfather, left, bought him several electronic guitars, including one from Eric Clapton.

Milecastle 37 is the only one to have a partially surviving arch. These gateways limited the height of goods coming into the fort.

Coming into Housesteads, there is an opportunity to walk on the wall; for a short distance, you can pretend to be a Roman guard walking the wall, looking down on the steep precipice to the valley below.

August 13: Once Brewed

We slackpacked today, a hiking term for carrying only a small pack. Since I did not sleep well last night, I was happy to travel lightly.

We took the bus to Once Brewed, so named if going eastward, but named Twice Brewed if coming from the west. From the visitor center, we clopped on tarmac for about a mile to get onto the Hadrian’s Wall Path.

The cold winds (never hitting 60 F) made my nose dribble all day. We climbed the highest point, Winshield Crag, where there is a geological survey marker. (See left.)

Today’s excursion was strenuous with lots of steep climbs and descents, which I find scary. Dennis almost runs downhill while I place my feet with care and hang on to whatever I can–even a blade of grass provides me assurance. I fear banging my sore knee or tripping and falling on it. Though the gash from the bicycle fall has healed, the knee is very sensitive to bumping.

The size of the wall is difficult to imagine. The picture on the left below shows how wide the wall can be (about 8 to 10 feet), while the photo on the right shows how high it was–imagine it with the gap filled, creating a wall stretching from the top of the rocks on the lower left to the top of the wall on the hill, perhaps 20 or 30 feet high.

The lower left picture shows the base of a turret, while the one on the right shows the ruins of a milecastle. Each small fort was spaced a mile apart and had a turret a half mile before and after it, and these stretched along the wall all across the Scotland-England border. Originally, historians thought the purpose of the wall was defense; now the thinking is that it was a way to control flow of goods into the country while applying a tariff or tax–a sort of toll road.

August 12: Greenhead

The clouds touched the Pennines Mountains in the background and scattered showers on us throughout the day. We managed to walk 7 miles to Greenhead, stopping along the way to visit historical sites and museums. Even though the weather was gloomy, we were in high spirits.

For the past two days, I have been trying to quiet my mind and let nature and the beauty of the Wall fill me with its wonder. Unfortunately, I am too preoccupied with the now–where to put my foot without stepping into dung, the beauty of the scenery, and my unstopping mind. I think about what to blog, about what living as a Roman in this environment must have been like, or something Dennis said which triggers a song. For me, meditating is very difficult.

I never tire of the pastoral scenery, the sheep and cattle, the openness. This section is hilly, but not mountainous, and the alternating climbs and descents makes walking interesting. The rain made it slippery in spots and definitely muddy, but we managed to have a very good day. I am so happy to be out of cities and back to nature.

There are more hikers going west than east, sometimes in large groups. At the hotel tonight, we met two hikers (Stuart and Malcolm McKay who wrote a book about the Camino, The Path). They are staying at the hostel across the street from Greenhead Inn, where we are staying. They will stay there again tomorrow, take the Hadrian’s Wall Bus forward in the morning, and then walk back to the hostel. Sounds like a good plan, and we are considering doing the like.

Today we purchased an English Heritage Oversees Pass, which entitles us to nine days of “free” entries to heritage sites throughout England. We visited the Birdoswald Roman Fort. The museum had artifacts from the fort, a Roman Soldier (acted by Tony Wilmott) School teaching kids dressed in Roman garb how to become a soldier; the kids were quite enthused.

It was amazing to see the archeological remains. Birdoswald housed 1000 Romans. There were granaries, baths, blacksmith shops, kitchens, butchers…everything needed to live at the fort. I find it difficult to imagine building this with the tools available 2000 years ago; it exemplifies how people underestimate the capabilities of people in ancient times.

August 11: Banks

The day started out cool and remained that way with afternoon showers. We got a late start (10:30 A.M.) because, based on misinformation, we went in search of a pharmacy that was supposed to be a half mile away, but turned out to be 1.5 miles. This 24-hour store has limited hours on Sunday and was closed. Three miles and one hour wasted.

Getting out of Carlisle was easy; the path is well indicated. We did not see the beginnings of the wall (most of the stones have been removed for housing) until we reached Bleatarn (Blea Tarn) Park where we could easily see the vallum or ditch on the south side of the wall. Bleatran was originally a quarry to get the stones to build The Wall. (See depression in ground on right.) There is a visible track from where they dragged the stones to the wall. The wall was 15 feet high and 8 to 10 feet wide.

Our first siting of the wall was at Hare Hill. Until this point, we saw a few turrets but did not see or, perhaps, recognize a milecastle, a gateway set every Roman mile and used to admit goods and people into England, most likely after paying a tariff or tax.

From here on to Banks where we had reserved a room at the Quarryside B & B, it was mostly up and down hills through farms. At one kissing gate, stood an enormous bull, bellowing and looking distraught. I was afraid to enter the field until I noticed a cow in another field mooing back. The bull was too much in heat to be concerned about two people passing by.

When we arrived at the B & B, Elizabeth, the hostess, treated us to tea and orange cake. Later her husband drove us to a pub for dinner.

Tomorrow we will only walk seven miles…there will be a lot to see.

August 10: Carlisle

Took the 9:35 A.M. bus to Bowness-On-Solway to the start of the Hadrian’s Wall Footpath. Bowness is the person who started the village on the Solway Bay. Hikers with a map lead us down a narrow, overgrown single track towards the water. We had to climb down a metal ladder to get to the beach, and then walk over goose egg-sized stones to the starting/ending Pavilion on the Banks (left). (There was an easier access further up the road.)

We followed the acorn waymarkers past marshlands on which grazed cattle and sheep. The tide was out, and we could have walked a mile across the bay, it was that dry.

In Glasson, the kids had a “Coffee Morning” as a fundraiser for the playground. For £2, you could have tea or coffee and a scone. This lad was so happy that we stopped and, because we were walking, added a free pee. Since a visit to the loo was included, who could resist. The break and the snack were welcomed.

Walking through fields dotted with cow plops, I recalled the time when, as a teenager, I went blueberry picking on my Aunt Jeannette’s father’s farm. I tried to maneuver through slippery rocks over a brook with buckets full of berries, slipped, and fell into fresh cow dung. Everyone laughed. I was insulted–no one asked if I were hurt; they were so amused.

I also remembered one of my father’s story. When he was a boy, he and his brother Paul were pranksters. One day, they talked a young girl dressed in her Sunday finest to play “Hop the Plop.” As he demonstrated, he feigned putting his foot on the cow plop as he skipped over it. The unsuspecting girl put all her weight on the dung and soiled her white lacy anklets and patent leather shoes. I’m sure grandma gave them a good scolding for that one.

At the two-thirds point, we stopped in Burgh (pronounced “bruff”) for a cold drink at the Greyhound Inn. Near the Inn is a statue of King Edward I, famous for fighting the Scots (below).

At the church cemetery were tombstones almost as tall as Dennis. (below).

We had to take a detour because of mudslides. The rerouting was not well indicated, but we did get back on the path, crossing wooden bridges, going under two railroad bridges, and finally returning to Carlisle.

At he B & B, we washed up, and then went for supper. It was almost 7 P.M., but everything was shut or reserved. If only we had known about this requirement, we could have booked a table yesterday. We ended up eating miso soup and snacks in a Chinese gift ship–other than McDonalds and Kentucky Fried Chicken, there were no available eateries.

August 9: Carlisle

We should have taken the 8:50 A.M local bus to Carlisle. Instead, we tried to take the National Express bus from the P & O ferry port in Cairnryan, but it was full. So we took a taxi to Stranraer, a port city (left), then a bus to Dumfries, and then a train to Carlisle, England, where we arrived six hours later. If only we had known!

Carlisle is a town, with a large modern shopping center that even has a Merry-Go-Round. We bee-lined to the Visitor Center to buy a guidebook for Hadrian’s Wall, get a city map, and make accommodation plans.

The houses in this area are all made of stone, with slate roofs, and multiple chimneys, all with several flues.Can’t you see the chimney sweepers dancing on the roofs as in Mary Poppins?

Though No. Ireland, Scotland, and England all use the pound, merchants only want “proper money” and frowned on our Ulster (No. Ireland) bills. I don’t know if it a political thing or what, but each country’s currency has the same value. We may have to go to a bank to exchange the bills.

Tomorrow we will bus to the start of Hadrian’s Wall, and then walk back to Carlisle–about 12 miles. Since we will only have a light pack, it should be a good way to get our legs prepped for the rest of the journey. It will be cold and overcast…I hope we get some good pictures.

August 8: Cairnryan

We said goodbye to our hosts, Tim and Ethy at the Abbeydene House B & B. Tim is a collector of single records of songs that made the top one hundred list; music memorabilia is scattered throughout the manor. I will miss the wonderful breakfast conversations with Tim and his deliciously creamy porridge.

After visiting Dennis’ Aunt Ethna, we took the ferry to Cairnryan, Scotland–a new country for me. It is amazing how different English is pronounced just a short 2-hour ride from Ireland. I asked if there were a sidewalk into Cairnryan. Puzzled, the person responded, “There is a wee path there.”

We arrived into the “wee village” and settled in at the B & B just before it started raining.

Tomorrow we will make our way to Hadrian’s Wall (a Roman divide between Scotland and England), and then start an eastward trek, 73 miles from sea to sea. Since we will be stopping to visit forts, ruins, roman towns, and museums, I don’t know how long it will take us to complete the relatively short distance. Click to see map.

August 6: Giant’s Causeway Day Tour

We decided to take the Allen’s Tours excursion to Giant’s Causeway, in County Antrim. The bus driver, Ian, was a wealth of information, Irish “craic” (jokes and enjoyable conversation), and “useless bits of information.”

Our first stop along the coastal drive, was at Carrickfergus Castle (left), a 12th century Norman structure and the place that King William III of Orange (aka King Billy) first set foot on Irish soil. This was a photo shoot stop, so we did not tour the interior.

Further up the coast, we stopped at Carrick A Rede where we crossed a death-defying rope bridge 98 ft. above the ocean rocks. It was bouncy and you had to time your pace so you wouldn’t fall; I managed to do it without holding the rope rails, a personal point of pride. According to Ian, no person has fallen from the bridge, only a dog. Now the bridge has two sides and dogs are prohibited from using it.

As we drove towards Antrim, Ian told us about the “Guinness Cows” that munched on grassy hillsides. These black and white cows are Belted Galloways; someone on the bus said they looked like Oreo cookies.

We passed through the nine glens of Antrim. A glen is a valley, typically one that is long, deep, and often glacially U-shaped, often with water running through it. As we admired their rich beauties, Ian regaled us with diverse and magical stories, combining the colorful history, myth and the traditions of the communities within the glens. There were several waterfalls and even a vanishing lake. Lake Laughareema is a “chalk ‘plug hole’ bunged up with peat.” In times of heavy rain, these block up and the lake fills, only to empty again in a matter of days.

The Giant’s Causeway is known for its 40,000 polygonal and interlocking basalt columns, stone formations that resulted from volcanic eruptions 60 million years ago.

The Giant’s Causeway is steeped in myth and legend. Some say it was carved from the coast by the mighty giant, Finn McCool who left behind an ancient home full of folklore including Giant’s Boot, The Wishing Chair, The Camel, Giant’s Granny, and The Organ (below).

There are four stunning trails around the park, but since we were time-limited, we visited the odd-shaped stones, the organ, and then climbed 162 steps to the cliffs. I can see why this geological wonder appeals to so many people with its breathtaking views of jagged cliffs and bays lashed by wind and waves.

Without a watch, I was in a hurry to get back to the bus, not wanting to miss it. Dennis was lollygagging, taking pictures, and enjoying the view. I could not imagine why he was not in a hurry…it never entered my mind that we had plenty of time (15 minutes). When I got to the car park and couldn’t find the bus, I was upset and angry at Dennis for making us miss the bus. Joke on me…but bad karma for rest of day. Dennis must be a saint!

Our last stop was at the Bushmills Distillery. This was basically a photo shoot and tourist attraction, selling Bushmills whiskey and paraphernalia. Dennis and I shared a dram of 12 year old reserve. Since we don’t normally drink whiskey, we could not determine if this was better than others, but it helped improve my mood. Some people purchased a sampler (five shots of various blends). Within about 10 minutes, they consumed the drinks…I wonder if they were able to differentiate between the different liquors.

Below are additional pictures of the Giant’s Causway; it was so spectacular.

August 5: Belfast

We walked into Belfast from our B & B along the coast for 5 miles, and then through the industrial area into the city center. Because of the paved roads, shade, and not wearing backpacks, we managed to hoof it in 1 hour and 40 minutes.

Dennis wanted to see the place his mother was born; the street is now gone. The slaughterhouse across from his mother’s home is now the Castle Court shopping center. The nearby 19th century Smithfield Market is renovated and contains various shops and a cafe.

We went to the library so Dennis could research his father’s stay in Cookstown prior to the Normandy invasion. As luck would have it, he was able to find information. The library had a beautiful rotunda.

We also visited the NI War Memorial, There were exhibitions about the Blitz, the Home Guard, and women during the war effort. Artifacts included the war rations, gas masks that used asbestos, and uniforms that you could try on. The curator was very interesting.