Wednesday, May 21, 2014 Copenhagen

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERATivoli’s grassy lawns entice people to settle down with a picnic lunch or just to enjoy the outdoors. Lounge chairs are available and people relaxed in the sunshine. Lots of children, dogs, and elderly on the green.

Compare these prices with your last visit to the café: The Big Cheeseburger 145 DKK ($30.00); French Fries 30 DKK (6.00) and Cowboy Rib-eye 240 DKK ($48.00). Imagine take out a family. Fortunately for the Danes, this is not abnormally out of range, based on their earnings, but it is out of range for most tourists.

IMG_20140520_122934 The Peacock Theatre Tivoli 300Teens ran from ride to ride, daring each other. This brings back memories of my childhood excursions to amusement parks. As we passed the bumper cars, I tell Dennis about my first time on this attraction. It was at Old Orchard Beach, Me. I was with my sister and my cousin, Joan (pronounced Joann). She was so proud at driving around without bumping into anyone. To this day, I don’t think she has every been in an accident where she was at fault. I, on the other hand….

At the Bier Garten, we talked with a woman dressed in traditional Bavarian garb. She is a student working on her masters. As a student she receives a stipend, which covers rent and food. She works for the extras. Imagine students in the US getting paid to study. Having a highly educated populace most likely is a contributor to Denmark’s high standard of living.

IMG_20140520_155957 Copenhagen canel 300We left the gardens and headed to the boat tour of the canals. We passed the Danish Architecture Center and then got off at Nyhavn to walk along the promenade, listen to the buskers, and enjoy a Carlsberg brown beer. Afterward jumping on the next boat, we visited the Experimentarium (science museum), the Trekroner Fortress which protected the harbor, passed the harbor stones called the Little Mermaid. We were going to stop at the alternative living quadrant, Chrisianshavn, but there were no later boats. In this section, people pay no rent and various types of marijuana are available in smoke shops. Though we did not get a chance to visit it, out hosts at the B&B said it was in interesting place to visit. Maybe next time.

IMG_20140520_210950 Dennis and Jane at Krogers HaveFrom the tour boat landing, we walked around town looking for a traditional Danish Restaurant. Our roaming ended up being about six miles.

As I sat enjoying the last of perfect day, I felt so grateful and fortunate to have Dennis, good health, and the means to travel and experience the world.

Danish cuisine

I love exploring new countries, learning about their traditions, cuisine, and habits. In Copenhagen, I will be able to sample the customary fare as well as gourmet dishes based on local produce.The Danes eat three meals a day: a cold breakfast with coffee, a cold lunch, and a hot dinner typically consisting of meat (usually pork), potatoes, and carrots or lettuce.

Breakfast

A basic Danish breakfast is a slice of rye or white bread or roll with a slice of cheese or jam, nothing like the American style “Danish”. Cereals such as corn flakes, muesli, and oatmeal is becoming more popular. Hotels often include hard-boiled eggs and cold meats for breakfast.

A typical local breakfast dish consists of the soured milk product ymer topped with ymerdrys, a mixture of grated rye bread and brown sugar. This reminds me of Mrs. Plourde, a sitter I had when I was in first grade, who used to give my sister and me sour cream sandwiches topped with brown sugar, something which I have not thought of in years.

Lunch

The smørrebrød (literally “bread and butter”) is an open rye bread sandwich consisting of cold cuts, meat, fish, cheese, or spreads, and then topped with decorative accompaniments. There are many varieties of smørrebrød. Wikipedia lists the following as the more traditional:

  • Dyrlægens natmad (Danish: Veterinarian’s midnight snack) — On a piece of dark rye bread, a layer of liver pâté (leverpostej), topped with a slice of salt beef (salt kød) and a slice of meat aspic (sky). This is all decorated with raw onion rings and garden cress.
  • Eel — Smoked eel on dark rye bread, topped with scrambled eggs and sliced radishes or chopped chives.
  • Leverpostej — Warm rough-chopped liver paste (made from pigs liver and lard) served on dark rye bread, topped with bacon, and sauteed mushrooms.
  • Roast beef — thin sliced and served on dark rye bread, topped with a portion of remoulade, and decorated with a sprinkling of shredded horseradish and toasted (ristet) onion.
  • Roast pork (Ribbensteg) — thin sliced and served on dark rye bread, topped with red sweet and sour cabbage, and decorated with a slice of orange.
  • Spiced meat roll (Rullepølse).
  • Tartar — raw beef mince with salt and pepper, served on dark rye bread, topped with raw onion rings, grated horseradish and a raw egg yolk.
  • Smoked salmon (laks) — Slices of cold smoked or cured salmon (gravad laks) on white bread, topped with shrimp and decorated with a slice of lemon and fresh dill.
  • Stjerneskud (Danish: Shooting Star) — On a base of buttered white bread, two pieces of fish: a piece of steamed white fish on one half, a piece of fried, battered plaice (rødspætte) on the other half. On top is piled a mound of shrimp, which is then decorated with a dollop of mayonnaise, red caviar, and a lemon slice.

Dinner

In most Danish homes, dinner,  called middag (midday) because hot meals were traditionally served in the middle of the day, is a one-course meal. Fish, seafood, and meat are common ingredients in Danish meals. On weekends or special occasions, the Danes prepare a more elaborate spread. With globalization and the increased availability of supermarket food, the Danes now have  the barbecue, salad buffets, pizza and pasta.

Restaurants usually have a three-course dinner: appetizer, soup, and entrée.

Soup is often a meal on its own. There are two Danish specialties:

Gule ærter (pea soup), served with salted pork, carrots and other vegetables
Hønsekødssuppe (chicken soup) served with melboller (small flour dumplings), meatballs and cubed vegetables.

Traditional entrées:

  • Boller i karry, meat balls in curry served with rice and cucumber salad.
  • Gammeldags kylling, old fashioned pan-cooked chicken, served with cucumber salad, rhubarb compote, potatoes and brown sauce.
  • Frikadeller, meat balls made of pork and veal with spices.
  • Hakkebøf, ground beef steak with soft caramelized onions and brown sauce.
  • Æbleflæsk (literally apple pork), fried pork slices served with a compote of apple, onion and bacon.
  • Stegt flæsk med persillesovs, slices of fried pork served with potatoes and parsley sauce.
  • Medisterpølse, thick, spicy sausage made of minced pork.
  • Æggekage (egg cake) — similar to an omelette.
  • Påskelam (Easter lamb) grilled lamb with dry herbs and garlic.
  • Culottesteg, top sirloin steak with dry herbs served with potatoes and green salad.
  • Stegt and, roast duck prepared like roast goose, stuffed with baked apples, prunes and thyme.
  • Stegt gås, roast goose is a traditional Danish Christmas dish and also served for Morten’s aften (St. Martin’s Day, November 11).
  • Flæskesteg, roast pork with crackling, often served at Christmas.
  • Rødkål, red cabbage with duck grease, sugar, vinegar, apple, onion, red wine and spices such as cloves, bay leaves, cinnamon, cardamom and allspice. Served for Christmas.
  • Brunede kartofler, caramelized potatoes made with sugar and butter. Served for Christmas.
  • Øllebrød (beer bread), a pudding made of rye bread, sugar and beer
  • Millionbøf, (translated: million steak), gravy filled with tiny pieces of beef (a million tiny steaks) poured over pasta or mashed potatoes.
  • Brændende kærlighed (literally “burning love”), mashed potatoes made with butter and milk or cream. A well is made in the top of the mashed potatoes into which fried diced bacon and onions are filled.
  • Risengrød, (rice porridge), a dish that has a special relationship to Christmas. It is traditionally the favorite dish of the Nisse. Usually served with butter, cinnamon sugar and nisseøl. It is also the basis of the Danish Christmas dessert Risalamande.

Desserts

GÅSEBRYST / GOOSE BREASTAt home, the Danes usually have ice cream or fruit for dessert. Apple and strawberry pies are popular. Other Danish desserts are

  • Æblekage, (apple charlotte). Stewed apple topped with bread crumbs and crushed almond-flavoured meringue or whipped cream, served cold.
  • Fruit salad topped with vanilla cream or whipped cream and grated chocolate
  • Rødgrød med fløde, stewed, thickened red fruit (usually strawberries or rhubarb) with cream or as topping on ice cream.
  • Pandekager, a thin, crepe-like pancake, rolled up, often sprinkled with confectioner’s sugar, and served with strawberry jam or vanilla ice cream.
  • Koldskål. A sweet cold buttermilk dish with vanilla and lemon, often served in the summer.
  • Danish strawberries with cream, served in the summer.
  • Æbleskiver, (literally “apple slices”), similar to a round American pancake though not the same, Danes eat them through December as a Christmas tradition.
  • Risalamande (or ris à l’amande), a rice pudding with whipped cream, vanilla flavouring and chopped almonds. Commonly eaten on Christmas Eve, served cold with hot cherry-sauce.
  • Wienerbrød (Danish pastry), a sweet bread, often topped with icing and filled with jam, remonce or custard.

Alcohol

Denmark is known for its Carlsberg and Tuborg beers. It is also known for Akvavit or Aquavit a caraway- or dill- flavored liquor typically containing 40% alcohol by volume. In Denmark it is distilled from potatoes.

Money matters in Denmark

Krone-currencyWe’ll arrive in Copenhagen on May 19. As part of my preparations for the trip, I checked out the currency in Denmark (they do not use the Euro). The Krone (kr) (or Crown) is worth about $0.18. According to my research, if staying at moderate hotels and eating in inexpensive restaurants, we can expect to pay 600kr ($223) per person per day. Our three-day visit is going to be an expensive stay. One of the reasons for the high cost is that hotels, restaurants, attractions and shops add a 25% value-added tax (VAT) called moms in Danish. At least the VAT is included in the price and not an add-on.

Money Exchange

ATMs are the best option to obtain cash when abroad. In Denmark, ATMs are available at most banks and at the airport. Since we are landing at the cruise terminal, we will get the local currency on our walk to the hotel. Outside of Copenhagen, ATMs are not available 24/7. Many close between 1 AM and 6 AM.

Plus (run by Visa) and Cirrus (run by MasterCard) are the two major ATM networks. They add a 1% conversion fee. Additionally, some banks charge ATM usage fees (as much as $5.00) while others do not. I will have to check out the bank’s policy before I make a transaction. Sometimes credit unions do not charge this fee, and there are several credit unions in Copenhagen.

The secret is to make fewer and larger withdrawals. Each card has a daily withdrawal limit. (I recommend finding out what that limit is before leaving on your trip.) Since we don’t want to have to pay exchange fees for Krones when leaving Denmark, we will have to plan our withdrawals carefully.

Credit Card Usage

In Denmark, MasterCard and Visa are commonly accepted, so we should be OK with our card. Those with American Express and Diners Club may have more difficulty charging. If the credit card used at a restaurant in Denmark is not a Danish card, there is a 3% to 7% additional fee. To avoid this charge, we will have to have enough cash when eating out. Considering the conversion fees, it is generally less expensive to pay with cash than with a credit card.

Checks

Personal checks drawn from foreign banks are normally not accepted in Denmark. Banks will cash Traveler’s Checks for a fee.

 The CurrencyKrone-coins

There are five bank notes in the following denominations: 50kr, 100kr, 200kr, 500kr, and 1000kr. On the obverse (front of the notes) are bridges connecting various parts of Denmark. On the reverse (backs) are prehistoric objects found near the bridges. Each note has a different size and color.

There are seven coins: one, two, five, ten, and twenty Krone and two coins that are divisions of the krone: twenty-five  and fifty Øre.  Each coin differs in color, size, weight, and rim. To not overspend, I will have to remember that the 20kr coin is worth about $3.70.

Tipping

Tipping in restaurants and cabs is not necessary; waitstaff and taxi drivers are well-paid and do not count on tips to supplement their income. If pleased with the service, it is the custom to round up the bill.