Zeebrugge, Belgium

We docked early in Zeebrugge, one of Belgium’s fast-expanding ports and busiest in Europe. We had planned to visit the city and beach without taking an excursion. We walked past the Cruise Port, along marinas, tram tracks, and apartment buildings, to the beach, where we saw a few memorials, families playing in the sand, and many cabanas. With the tide out, the water was far from the boardwalk. With so little to see, we returned to the ship.

Had we done more research before arriving here, we would have booked an excursion to Bruges, 15 kilometers away. The ship excursions were expensive, but fewer alternatives can be booked outside the Port Authorities building. It is only a 15-minute bus or train ride to Bruges.

To get to the train station, the tram costs 3€ per person, and tickets can be purchased from the driver. Take the tram toward “De Panne” and leave at the Blankenberg train station. Another alternative is to purchase the tram ticket on board the ship, but the price may be inflated.

The St. Georges Day commemorates The Zeebrugge Raid by the Allies to retake the harbor from the Germans. Of the 1,700 men involved in the operation, 300 men were wounded, while more than 200 were killed.

On our return to the ship, we stopped at an outdoor cafe to sample the local brews. My favorite was the Kasteel Donker—dark, rich, and with overtones of caramel, coffee, and chocolate. I hope to find it back home.

Thursday, May 29, 2014 La Gleize BE

20140527_125315 Coo train station 300On Tuesday, as we approached the train depot in Coo, Belgium, I told Dennis we would be lucky to have a cow greet us. We did not. There was nothing there but a shelter for those waiting for the train.

At the bottom of the hill we were surprised to find a resort for hiking, biking, canoeing, and kyacking. There even was an amusement park. Of course, it is off-season and nothing except a restaurant was open. The server told us that the closest ATM was in Trois Ponts, three kilometers back. Since we needed cash, we put on our packs and headed for town.

20140529_151417 B and B Les TcheousTrois Ponts would have been the better train stop for us to take. It is a more developed and there are buses that leave the center for La Gleize. We caught the 42A, which dropped us seven kilometers later in La Gleize. From there is was a short 15-minute uphill climb to B & B Tchéous.

Our hosts Christine and Frankie told us that a painter built the house in 1935 and used the attic for his workshop. During WWII the house was under fire and bullet holes are still visible in the building’s wood and stones. When they purchased the house it was in disrepair. The owner’s bathroom had carpeted ceiling, floor, and tiles to keep the air out. The elderly owner said, “Who needs towels, just use the flooring.”

20140528_225548 Mini Les Tcheous dogFrankie is a renowned cyclist and local history buff, so he and Dennis had a lot to chat about. I fell in love with their six-month jachd, a German hunting terrier. She is nearly full grown and very friendly. Since she was the runt of the litter, they called her “Mini.”

Wednesday morning, we visited the museum where Dennis’s father’s helmet is on display. Unfortunately the curator was not there and Dennis was unable to do more research. I know he was disappointed.

Afterwards, we walked to Stoumont, a neighoring town, to build our legs up for The Ridgeway Path in England and to see the area. As we walked, we tried to imagine what fighting in the Ardennes Forest was like in December 1944. The Dennis’s father suffered permanent lung damage here.

20140528_130723 chateau pfeifer stayed 300On the way, we spotted the chateau that Obersturmbannführer Joachim Peiper commandered for several days. Luckily, his whereabouts were not known at the time and the building was not destroyed in an attempt to capture the officer.

Stoumont, is a small village with a handsome central church. At the visitor center, we learned of other WWII sites to visit within walking distance. Returning to La Gleize, the panorama was welcoming. This is a beautiful area.

20140528_144659 La Gleize panorama 300Today is a holiday in the Europe Union: Ascension Thursday. There are many bicyclist and hikers enjoying the area. For some reason, perhaps the hilly terrain, there seems to be more male than female bikers.

20140529_144711 bicylistsAround La Gleize there are many various biking routes…something for everyone and every skill: road, racing, or mountain biking. We saw groups of 50 or more. Dennis was almost salivating with desire to join them.

20140529_131834 Cheneaux monument to the liberatorsWe walked to another neighboring town Cheneux to visit a bridge and house that were important in WWII. Two women ran from the gunfire and took shelter in the farmhouse, which was then bombed, killing both of them. In town, there is a monument to “In homage to the brave men of the 504th parachute infantry regiment of the 82nd Airborne Division, who took back the village on 21 December 1944-at a high cost of lives following bloody combat.” Someone continues to plant flowers in remembrance.

Once again, coming into La Gleize was beautiful. This is the view from the road to Stoumont.20140529_142330 La Gleize panorama from Cheneux

August 31: La Gleize

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAThis morning, Michel de Trez, author and historian (left with Dennis and me), and his friend Françoise picked us up at the B & B to drive us to the December 44 Museum in La Gleize to see Dennis’ father’s WWII paratrooper helmet and other artifacts. Michel had arranged for Dennis to be interviewed by local and national television and he appeared on the national news that evening. Holding the helmet was an emotional moment for Dennis, “I can feel my dad!” Dennis looked at a collection of Michel de Trez’s photos and was able to identify Pvt. Ernest R. Blanchard in several of them.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAAfter the interview, we roamed the museum. When Dennis’ father had talked about fighting at Bastogne, he really meant near there; he actually fought in La Gleize, as records and photos depict. In the museum, there is a Tiger II German tank, which shot 88mm shells. Dennis’ father used to tell him that “the French had hedgerows and the Belgians had the 88”, both which drove him nuts. Looking at the German’s largest tank, you can imagine just how terrifying it must have been for those fighting against it.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERADennis is standing by the Tiger II tank, the only one still on its battlefield, now positioned in front of the museum; there are only nine other surviving tanks.

If you come to Europe, don’t miss visiting the December 44 Museum to really understand the Battle of the Bulge.

 

August 30: Bastogne

This morning we spent more than three hours viewing the J’avais 20 ans en Bastogne exhibit at the Musée en Piconrue. Senior citizens were interviewed by teens about their experience as children during WWII. Their taped recollections were the basis for the three floors of exhibit rooms. Off all the museums we visited in Bastogne, this was my favorite—not only about the military but the effects of the war on the citizens; it made the hellishness more real.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAAfter lunch we visited the 101st Airborne Museum. Dennis’ father was in the 101st during the Battle of the Bulge. It was amazing to see the size of the 81mm mortar that he transported. We found nothing personal but did get a feel for the snow and cold during that winter battle.

We tried to find the bus stop to go the shopping center to buy clothes for Dennis’ interview tomorrow. We asked several people about the stop’s location. At least, someone told us that we were actually at the stop—it was just unidentified. Would you have known it was here? (photo right)

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAThe cost of living is very high in Belgium. Clothing, food, restaurants, hotels are all very expensive. Bastogne is a tourist town, so I can understand the elevated prices. Even though we went to a “mall” in a neighboring town 10 km (6 mi) away, the prices were less but still much dearer than in the U.S. I don’t know how the average person can afford living here.

Tomorrow, Michel de Trez will pick us up at 9:15 to take us to La Gleize where Dennis will be filmed for the Belgium TV. It should be an exciting day for him.

August 28: Bastogne

map Luxembourg to Bastogne 44.5 kmIt took us approximately two hours and twenty minutes to get from Luxembourg to Bastogne, Belgium, about 44.5 km (27.6 miles). The itinerary included taking a 20-minute train ride to Mersch where we took a 5-minute bus ride to Ettelbruck. The last section took us the longest; we salute the bus driver for her skill and bravery.

As is our custom, we use seat belts in buses, when available. Shortly after starting off from Ettelbruck we begin descending the Ardennes, a very steep and forested mountain range in Belgium. After a near collision in one of the hairpin turns, we heard the other passengers clicking in their seat belts–the scare frightening them into safety.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAWe alighted at the McAuliffe square, so called because General McAuliffe reputedly responded “Nuts!” from this location to the German’s request for surrender.  We ate lunch at the Jack Friteria (right) located in the square; Dennis recalled eating here with his military buddies back in the 60s when they came by motorcycles to visit the war museums and monuments.

We went to the Gare de Sud, the south bus station, to make plans for traveling to La Gleize on Saturday. We had to wait for a bus to arrive to find out how to do this. Turns out Michel de Trez will be picking us up at the B & B and driving us to the museum where he has arranged for an interview with Dennis that will be aired on Belgium National TV. How cool is that? We are off to buy Dennis non-hiking clothes; it will be strange to see him dressed up again.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAThere are 44 museums, monuments and historical things to do in Bastogne. One of them is the Musée en Piconrue (left), which displays some WWII artifacts and sells books about the 101st Airborne in Bastogne. The museum that Dennis is most interested in seeing is the Bastogne Historical Center. He also wants to visit the Mardasson Monument, a short walk out of town.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERABastogne is a city under construction. There are many cranes and remodeling projects. Tourism is a major factor, but there are more eateries than places to stay. We were lucky to find a room, especially since there is a circus in town this weekend.

With all the WWII Battle of the Bulge monuments in town, I loved the simplicity and innocence of the babies climbing statue.