August 27: Carentan

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAWe went to the Dead Man’s Corner Museum in Carentan, because Dennis found a photo of his dad’s helmet in a book which stated the helmet was in this museum. The museum had many artifacts about the 82nd and 101 Airborne, but not his helmet. We purchased a book depicting Pvt. Ernest R. Blanchard in England where he trained for the invasion. The author of both books was historian Michel de Trez,

Dennis asked the proprietor about the whereabouts of the helmet. He told us that his partner was the historian Michel de Trez and that he had the helmet in Belgium; he then called his friend to introduce us and to see if he was willing to speak with Dennis. We will go to Belgium after Luxemburg for that very purpose. Imagine the odds of finding that helmet!

Carentan is a small village with a train station. There, we bought our tickets for Luxembourg and will arrive in Luxembourg City tomorrow evening. At first we thought of catching the train to Bastogne, but decide to stay and explore the city, since I have not been there.

When I was studying French so many years ago, I read about the flying buttresses, an architectural technique that made it possible for churches to have light and height. Notre Dame in Carentan, (picture above left)  I believe, is such an example.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAThe town hall is massive with a frontal rose and flower garden and huge window boxes full of petunias. These flowers seem to be a favored flowered in the district; they decorate many buildings. I wonder if Dennis’ father’s love for this flower developed while he was in France.–it was his favorite. Another popular flower is the hollyhock. These seem to attract the largest bumblebees I have ever seen.

Carentan has a canal to the harbor; consequently if has a marina (below, left). It was very relaxing siting under an cafe umbrella, sipping a Perrier, and watching the boats.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAWe returned to Sainte-Mere-Eglise, about 15 km (10 miles) away, to prepare for a day of travel. We boxed up our camping gear—no use hauling that 7 kg (almost 16 lbs) around if we are not using it. Dennis’ back pack is much lighter, and mine is smaller; both now fit in the overhead racks on trains and buses. Life is getting easier and we wind down our trip.

August 25: Sainte-Mère-Église

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAExcept for the church bells tolling most of the day, there isn’t much going on in Sainte-Mère-Église on Sundays. Of course, there are the walking tour, restaurants, and trinket and bead shops, but no places of interest within walking distance that we had not already seen, and no buses to get to the sites that are further away.

At the tourist shop, we were surprised to find books not sold at the bookstore. More amazingly, we found photos of Dennis’ father and leads to more information. Dennis was as thrilled as a kid at Christmas and bubbled with excitement.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAWe visited the church where there are two stain-glass windows honoring the parachutists of the 82nd Airborne. The picture on the right depicts  Saint Michael and the insignia of various Allied military units that fought in or near the village.

It is remarkable how the people of Sainte-Mère-Église continue to commemorate those that liberated them that night of June 5, 1944 and the days following. It also honors the civilians who died at that time. Next year will be the 70th anniversary.

Below is the tree where Dennis’ father’s parachute was hung up. As bullets whizzed by, he cut the ropes to the chute–and part of his thumb in haste–fell about 30 feet, and then ran off to join other members of his team. Once gathered together, some came back to liberate the town and others went to capture a Bridge at La Fiere, a marsh three kilometers away.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

August 24: Sainte-Mère-Église

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAWe went to the Sainte-Mère-Église town hall and were lucky enough to have an interview with the mayor, Marc LeFevre. Dennis thanked him for what his predecessor did to honor Ernest R. Blanchard’s 70 birthday–sending a letter thanking him for his heroic actions on June 5, 1944, a medallion of the city, and telephoning him on the actual birth date. Unfortunately, his dad never saw the accolades or received the phone call: he died three days too soon.

The mayor was very receptive and promised to contact an acquaintance of his who might be able to help Dennis with more information about his father’s “longest day.”

His office gave Dennis six commemorative photos, though not of his father.

AsOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA we were heading to the Parachutists Memorial, we passed the house pictured above. It commemorates a parachutist, but one not on the walking tour list. As were we trying to determine who it might represent, a gentleman stopped to give us information. It turns out that Philipe R. Nekrassoff  (right with Dennis left) is an historian, writer, and owner of the house we were admiring. He immediately knew Dennis’ dad’s story and might have a photo of him, though from 1960. He will search his records and forward the info to Dennis. What a coincidence. As we were departing, he gifted us with a signed copy of his book: Magneville: Ce Jour Là …6 Juin 1944.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAWe walked five miles round trip to the memorial. On the way, I noticed that the architecture here is not very different from England’s–stone buildings, tile ceilings, similar chimneys. If it were not for the different crops in the fields, corn rather than oats, I would think I were still in England.

Unlike England, the French drive on the right, have a smaller breakfast, and seem a little more relaxed, not so much in a hurry, except when they are driving.

 

August 23: Sainte-Mère-Église

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERACherbourg is a seaside resort town, replete with eateries, cafes, shops, and high prices. I am learning French names for shops (bakery, pastry, meat store, etc) as well a menu items. Too bad we are not staying longer in France; I would to love sample all the deliciously presented food. Or perhaps its a good idea we are not here too long–I’ve already put on too much weight. I went to the pharmacy to weigh myself, but it did not have a scale; I guess I don’t have to worry about it this way.

 

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAOn our one-hour bus trip from Cherboug to Sainte-Mère-Église, we had a discussion with Nisar Mohmand. He is 24-year-old gentleman from Afghanistan who has has been living in France for three years, working as a welder. He was very interesting and kind, offering us lodging if we should need it. Many thanks, Nisar.

The tourist office in Sainte-Mère-Église helped us locate a B & B, and gave us a walking-tour map of the city. We visited OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAthe Airborne Museum (where I learned that Sainte-Mère-Église was the first liberated village in France), looked at the monuments and memorials around the city, and found Dennis’ father ‘s name on one, though the name is incorrect. Pvt. Ernest R. Blanchard is commemorated as Pvt. R. Blanchard.

Dennis is moved by being here, so close to the events faced by his dad on June 5, 1944. He regrets not having come here with his father, who would have had comments on everything.

Tomorrow we will visit more sites, select a guided tour of all the D-Day beaches for Sunday, and try to see the mayor who can perhaps direct us to more information about his dad and the tree he landed in.

 

 

 

August 22: Cherbourg

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAWe had the morning to explore Portsmouth before taking the ferry to Cherbourg, France. I love the varied colors of the row houses, the open space by the sea, and the relatively warmer and sunnier weather. For the first time in about six weeks, I am comfortable, at least when not in the wind.

Portsmouth is an island city with a population density greater than London. Even though there are more than a million inhabitants, Portsmouth does not appear as crowded as London.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAWe visited the Portsmouth D-Day Museum, which features large embroidered panels of Operation Overlord, the code name for the Battle of Normandy. These were extremely well done, with recognizable faces and realistic scenes depicting battles and injuries. There are more  50 different materials used in the making of the panels, including materials taken from uniforms of the armed forces involved in the battles.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAWe had a light lunch on a restaurant’s veranda next to the ocean, and then we scrambled to meet the Ferry. It is a three-hour crossing on the “fast ferry” and we arrived there around 8 P.M. French time (GMT +1). Left, first sighting of French soil. We had no trouble finding the B & B, had a late supper, tasted French beer, and went to bed. Traveling can be very tiring.