Vermont Long Trail Archives - Page 2 of 2

Day 11: (June 26) Peru Peak Shelter

We sat at Ms. Murphy’s eating an egg sandwich and listening to the locals chatter. Two old codgers kept everyone entertained. After breakfast we hitched a ride to the trail head with Miles, a painter and building restorer.

My new shoes are comfortable. I appreciated all the time Vincent at EMS in Manchester Center, VT spent to get me a good fit. My other shoes did not provide much support and I sprained my right ankle. I had to wrap my ankle with an Ace bandage to continue. That and the new shoes seem to help, but I am mindful of how I place my foot. Being constantly vigilant slows my pace. But, what’s the rush? I will get there when I do, and without harm, hopefully.

We stopped at Bromley Shelter for lunch and met “Proud Foot” and “McGyver.” The trail is up and down to Mad Tom Notch at 2,446 ft.

After climbing Peru Peak, I no longer have climbing Machu Picchu in Peru on my bucket list. My lungs were gasping for air at 3000 ft. elevation; I can’t imagine climbing to almost 8000 ft.

Without Dennis, I don’t think I could make this hike. He is my personal Sherpa. He carries the tent and stove. What I appreciate the most is his getting and filtering the icy cold mountain water. I have Renaud’s Syndrome, a disorder that affects blood vessels in my fingers, turning them white and painful with the cold.

Additionally, it is cold for almost July. When I stop walking, I start shivering. Even changing into dry camp clothes does not stop my quivering. Tada! Dennis to the rescue. As tired as he might be, he boils the water for our supper and cleans up the dishes, as I sit warming myself in my sleeping bag in the tent

Everyone discouraged me from bringing my sleeping bag liner and gloves, saying that I would be hiking in July. If only I had known that the evening temperatures would fall into the 40’s—way too cold for this Floridian—I would have sacrificed something else to carry the warmer objects.

We set up our tent on a platform at Peru Peak Shelter. Though others tented there that evening, they did not share the platform.

Day 8 and 9: (23 – 24 June) Green Mountain House

One of the advantages to sleeping in a shelter is a quick morning start. No need to take down and stow the tent. We were on the trail by 7:20 AM. We had about 11 miles to the intersection of the LT and Vermont 11, which would take us into Manchester Center where we had reservations at the hiker hostel, Green Mountain House.

For some reason, Dennis and I found the hike difficult today. I’m not sure if it’s because yesterday’s hike was so demanding or if because we need a break. There were lots of false hill tops, more ups than I wanted, and I just dragged myself up to the road. I don’t think I could have gone much farther.

It didn’t take long for a pickup truck to pull over and we climbed into the bed of the truck. Sitting there with the wind blowing our hair was such a treat. The driver stopped in the center of town. We climbed down from the back of the truck and waved the driver goodbye, along with our hiking poles. Prior to leaving, Dennis handed the driver his business card and offered to send him a copy of his book if he emailed us his address. We hoped that he would contact us.

Dennis felt terrible, since he was the one holding the poles. No use crying about it, it’s only money.

Since I had been yearning a hamburger all day, we asked the locals where we could get a good burger. Two different people recommended McDonald’s. Finally, two house painters gave us directions to Seasons, a local restaurant. There, I sated my taste buds with a juicy half-pounder, sweet potato fries, and a local Vermont brew.

After filling our bellies, we called Jeff, the hostel proprietor. It felt so good to take a shower and sleep in a bed. As part of the fee, Jeff gives each guest a pint of Ben and Jerry’s ice cream. I now have a new favorite: New York Super Fudge Chunk.

We had a delightful night. “Werewolf,” who walks in a kilt, was there. We had met him at the Stratton Pond Shelter. “K2” from the Goddard Shelter was there. “New Song,” who is recovering from a broken ankle, delighted us with colorful stories of his life. As he says, long-distance hikers are unique.

The next day, we went into town to resupply, buy new shoes, and replace the hiking poles. EMS said that if the gentleman returned our poles they would take back our newly purchased one. I’m not too hopeful. The driver will have to notice them in the bed of his truck. If he is like me, he won’t look in there for a while.

It took us until 4 PM to get all our errands done and have an early supper at the Thai Basil. I wasn’t impressed with my choice, but Dennis enjoyed is Pad Thai. The presentation was lovely, but my vegetables were still frozen in places. Nonetheless, it was nice sitting outdoors with the Green Mountains as backdrop.

Since we did not get a chance to rest, we asked to extend our stay. Jeff is fully booked, so we reserved one night at the Sutton’s Place in town. Tomorrow will be a rest day.

Weighing Jane's bag — Weighing Jane’s bag

Before leaving, we weighed our packs. Mine, with food and water weighs a little over 22 lbs. Dennis’ bag weighs about 35.5 lbs. He is carrying the tent, amateur radio gear, and the computer. I was surprised by the weight. I thought it was heavier. Must be another reason I am so slow.

On the Vermont Long Trail (Day 1 – 3)

Doug McKain from Green Mountain Hiking Club chauffeured us from the North Troy Inn at the end of the Long Trail (LT) to the start in Williamstown, MA. Though only 273 miles, it took us 7 hours to drive, with a short stop at the Green Mountain headquarters in Waterbury Center and then to eat.

When we got to the trail head it was pouring. Though Doug offered to take us to a hotel, we decline. At the start of the Pine Cobble Trail, which leads to the LT, a trail angel had put a bowl of water out for hiking dogs. Instantly we thought our our friend Elizabeth who is fond of dogs. A little way farther we saw a natural bowl in the bole of a tree.

Because of the rain, the trail was very muddy and we had to watch not to trip. I did manage to have my first fall, biting my tongue. I slipped on slippery bark and down I went.

Unfortunately, hiking took us longer than expected and we did not arrive at the first shelter (Seth Warner) only 7 miles away until after nine. We had to use our headlamps to walk the last mile or so.

We are both out of shape, and I have a terrible cough. Dennis can tell how far behind I am by my barking. At least it will keep the coyotes away. Their baying was the only sign of large wildlife we saw on the first day.

On day two, we left the campsite around 10 am. Our destination was Congdon Camp, about 7.2 miles away. Lots of uphill climbs, something we Floridians are unaccustomed to. That, being in our late 60s, out of shape, and at a higher altitude meant that it was slow going. By mid afternoon, Dennis said that the last two days were the most difficult 15 miles that he ever walked (and he completed the Appalachian Trail in 2008). Then we discovered that we still had 3.8 miles to the shelter! Another long day.

Today we only walked around 4 miles to Route 9. Our speed was a bit faster until the last steep descent. It was very scary for me, especially since I have a fear of heights. The trail was a bolder stairway with a cliff to the left.

When we got to the bottom, Steve (a trail angel) was waiting to take hikers to the Catamount Motel. Once showered, I went to the walk-in clinic and was told I had severe allergies. I hope the prescriptions will provide relief.

For supper we went to the Madison Brewing Company. I had a Chocolate Milk Stout (right), the daily special, while Dennis had a Maple Red (left). We both enjoyed our brews and meal.

Hoping tomorrow I will be better and back on the trail…if only for a few miles.

Training in NH

Dennis and I went hiking on the back roads around Newton, NH. Everything is verdant and vibrant following the rains. The rhododendrons, azaleas, and spring flowers add colors not seen in Florida. We also saw golden finches, robins, cottontails, and other small woods animals.

I had not realized how much I missed the smell of newly mowed NH grass. What goes for grass in Florida does not have the same fragrant attraction.

We walked with our packs and while pushing a baby stroller. This week we will do both simultaneously. While I push Ronan, Dennis has our granddog on a leach, which greatly slows him done. We are always calling out to Grandpa and Jasper to hurry up. We purchased some of our food goods and will add those to the pack after we go through them one final time.

It is still cool here…only in the 40s at night. I’m hoping it will warm up by next week. Even the training in NH is not preparing me for sleeping on the ground in cold nights. Am I becoming a 65-year-old wimp?

Changing to hiker mode

On our drive north, I read the Green Mountain Club Long Trail Guide, Hiking Vermont’s High Ridge. It divided the trail into twelve divisions. Each corresponding chapter included a profile map, descriptions of the route, and its side trails. Though the book offers a lot of information, we will not take it with us. It is too heavy. Instead we will take a corresponding map, and note points of interest on it.

What I learned from the book

There are no poisonous snakes in Vermont (VT), but there are porcupines, mice, raccoons, squirrels, peregrine falcons, black bears, and deer. We need to take precautions against the deer tick.
Water is abundant. It just needs filtering.
The Long Trail is marked with a white blaze, as is the Appalachian Trail (AT), which it follows for the first 100 miles.
After the Long Trail separates from the AT, there are more four-sided lodges than shelters. Depending of the weather, we intend to use our tent, for the most part.
We may encounter winter conditions at higher elevations during the spring (Oh, my!)
Spring and Fall are the mud and bug seasons (black flies and mosquitoes). To prevent erosion of “extremely muddy trails,” we may be rerouted.
Be prepared for quickly changing weather and prevent hypothermia, which can cloud judgement, Which Dennis might say is already impaired.
The Long Trail goes through three arctic-alpine areas. These have fragile eco-systems with indigenous plants.

As the van struggled up the Pennsylvanian hills, I envisioned climbing similar hills. If a 130 horse-powered engine found it difficult, how much so will I?

In Wilkes-Barre, we stopped for coffee. Sitting outdoors at the cafe, the panorama spans approximately five miles. I think that it would take me most of a day to hike up and down those hills. My conscientiousness is changing to hiker mode. With this perspective shift, time and distance become more relative to how long it takes me to walk x number of miles, with x amount of elevation. ( A rough calculation is to allow 30 minutes for every mile, plus 30 minutes for every 1,000 feet of ascent).

A few days later, Dennis, Aine (daughter), and I walk three miles in the Plaistow Town Forest. We spray ourselves against the mosquitoes, but I fail to put the repellent under my skirt and the pest quickly sting my thighs. (I never had to worry about mosquitoes while hiking in a skirt in Europe.) We diverted around a few muddy areas, but the forest is dry. After being cooped in the car for three days, it feels good to get moving. I plan to hike here with a full pack next week.

Sunday the temperatures plummeted from the mid 80s to the 40s. It pours like Florida rain and I am thankful for not yet having started the hike. In two weeks, I hope the weather is more stable and a lot warmer. In spite of the rain, I am looking forward to the hike.

Hiking with long or short hair

For the last month or so, I have been trying to decide if I should cut my mid-back-long hair. If I keep it long, I can put in a bun, out of my face. If I leave it loose, it can help against the bugs. If I cut it short, it would fly in the wind and be easier to wash and dry. I am still flip-flopping, but I really love my daughter’s new short do.

What have been your experiences with hiking with long hair? Please comment.

Tweaking gear

A few trial hikes discouraged me from using Dennis’ Gregory Z35 Pack. The torso is about two inches too long. It didn’t sit right and caused me to lean forward too much. Not wanting to spend money on another pack, I decided to use my Osprey Talon 33 back pack. I’ll miss the extra three cubic feet, but not the 3/4 lbs. If I need to, I will strap a day pack to my backpack to carry food.

Dennis and I spent several hours tweaking gear to reduce the bulk and weight. Everything in my bag has a purpose, sometimes two. For example, mouthwash can be used as an antiseptic, dental floss for sewing, etc. The only thing I have doubles of is clothing, one that I’ll be wearing and the other in the pack or hanging from it to dry.

Since we are starting the hike on June 16, I decided against the warm weather clothing. Even though is will soon be summer, the evenings can be cold in the mountains. I’ve become a chilly-willy since I moved to Florida. I hope I won’t regret my decision.

In all, my gear including water and food weighs 31.77 pounds (12.4 kilos). I’m not bothered by the weight during my practice walks. Who knows what will happen in the hills and mud.

Dennis solved our transportation problem. We will stay at the North Troy Inn Bed and Breakfast on June 15, where we will leave the van. The next day Doug McKain, a Green Mountain Club volunteer, will shuttle us 270 miles or so to North Adams, MA, and the start of the Long Trail.

Things are looking good.

Gear change

100_0685 — Dennis at the start of the Long Trail, North Adams, Massachusetts. (Taken in 2008)

Dennis and I were speakers at the Appalachian Trail Club of Florida. Dennis presented slides from his 2008 walk on the first part of the Long Trail, which is also part of the Appalachian Trail (AT). I think he was a little wary that all the photos of the mud might change my mind about going.

100_0684 — Most likely I’ll be traipsing in mud the length of Vermont.

After the slide presentation, we showed the members the contents of our backpacks for their thumbs-up or thumbs-down. Most of my gear was approved, but several people commented on how small my Osprey Talon 33 backpack was. Afterwards, I decided that it was really too small to carry 10+ lbs. of food in addition to everything else. Instead, I am going to use the pack that Dennis used on the Camino and our travels in Europe, a Gregory Z35 Pack. It is 12 oz. heavier, but has greater carrying capacity.

In addition to this gear change, Dennis lightened his 2008 AT load buy purchasing lighter equipment. With the new technology, his pack weighs about 4 lbs less.

Since Spain, I enjoy café con leche, a coffee/warm milk beverage. I drink an Americanized version of it daily. Since I don’t like instant coffee and can’t see using the gas in our canisters to brew a pot, I asked the club members what they did on the trail. Almost everyone said to use Starbucks Via, single-serving instant coffee packets that they enjoyed. Today I found out they even have a Coffee Mocha version. I’m sure I’ll try both.

This morning I walked with the larger pack. I will have to get use to the new fit, but I think I will be able to do so. Just in case, I’m taking the smaller pack to NH, as a backup.

“My bags are pack, and I’m ready to go.”

My next big adventure: 270 miles on the Vermont Long Trail

After Memorial Day, Dennis and I are heading up to New Hampshire to spend time with our daughter and her family. While she and hubby are on a week-long cruise, we will care for their 19-month son and their pets. Living 1400 miles away, I welcome this opportunity to spoil my only grandchild.

Walking the hills around Newton NH will be training for the mountains of Vermont. Starting in mid June, I will attempt my first long-distance wilderness hike: 270 miles on the Vermont Long Trail. Though I have walked further, my previous hikes were far from ruffing it. I’ve become spoiled with European hostels, B&Bs, hot showers, warm meals, and the conviviality of traveling from community to community.

This will be different. My accommodation will be a tent. My bed will be a sleeping bag atop an eggshell foam mat. We will prepare our meals from supplies we carry in. We plan to go into a town about once a week for food, shower, pampering, and groceries.

We estimate that the trip will take approximately a month. We intend to start off slowly, and then increase the distance as our bodies adjusts.

We purchased two guides to help up navigate the trail, and are using the gear from previous hikes. The only new items include new boots for Dennis (I’m still looking), hiking poles for me, and a water filter to prevent catching a water-borne disease. We will also have to treat our clothes against deer ticks, which carry Lyme Disease.

For the most part we are prepared. Today I am packing my backpack. For the next month, I will wear it on my morning walks to help my body will get use to the straps. I will also try to learn how to use the walking sticks. In the past, I found them unhelpful, but using them properly can reduce chances for knee injury or shin splints, so its to my advantage to develop a rhythmic stride with the poles.

I’m starting to get excited for our next adventure. I hope you will follow along on this blog.

Have you walked the Vermont Long Trail? If so, are there places I should make a point to visit/avoid? Any words of advice? Please Comment.