Perranporth, England

May 16, 2024 Newquay to Perranporth (Day 4)

Four options depended on the tide; we took the shorter distance and taxied to Crancok, a lookout carport. From there we followed the path that was mostly on dunes. When Dennis stopped to take photos, I veered left, and he continued forward. After waiting about 15 minutes at the top of the hill, I retraced my steps. I had to decide whether to go back down the slope to see if he was injured or ascend on the path. I chose the latter, asking everyone if they had seen an old man with a backpack. After about a half hour, someone said that Dennis was looking for me–I now knew to continue forward and hoped he would stop so I could catch up. Soon, I found him at a crosspath, where he figured I would catch up. Relief!

The dunes had many paths that crossed each other, making it difficult to stay on one path. Once again, the Gaia GPS kept us from going too far astray.

We walked on the beach for about a mile. Since we did not know the tidal schedule and it looked like the tide was coming in, we climbed the sandy dunes with much effort and followed that option into town. Had we known there was a staircase up to the town from the beach, continuing on the beach would have been much easier; the loose dune sands are hard to navigate.

I found it interesting that the Patron saint of Cornwall, St Piran, is said to have arrived at Parrenporth in the 6th century floating on a millstone from Ireland. This story is similar to how Saint James arrived in Northern Spain on a stone ship at about the same time.

Newquay, England

May 15, Porthcothan to Newquay (new-key). Day 3)

We followed the path along the coastline for about a mile. Today was cold, with on-off rain but little wind. We walked past mounds called barrows, bronze-age burial places.

Nature has created the most stunning coastline—the Atlantic, battering the coast, carving coves and inlets with jagged rocks, cliffs, and beautiful sandy beaches. I am privileged to see this wonder.

It is difficult for us to follow the path description that calls out the coves, inlets, etc, by name, which means nothing to us. This is where the PBS series Poldark was filmed, and I seem to recognize some of the areas, though, after a while, they all look similar.

Once we got to Trevone, a small coastal village, we lost the Path. Once we reached the road junction, we could go 1.5 miles back to Padstow or continue 3.5 miles to Newquay as planned. We chose to do as planned. We walked the narrow B3276 and arrived in time to meet our taxi in Newquay. It was harrowing. Though we walked facing traffic, we had to step off the road and into the briars/shrubbery to avoid getting hit. I am grateful for the attentive drivers. Like the Path, the road was undulating and did not save our legs from climbing.

Porthcothan England

May 14, 2024, Padstow to Porthcothan. (Day 2)

What a wonderful spread of fruit, yogurt, cereal, porridge, or warm breakfast! After filling up, we started our 13.5-mile walk to Porthcothan Bay from Padstow with a steep climb. It was a clear, chilly day, and the vistas were spectacular—just what we had come to see.

We could see a stone tower on Stepper Point, built in the 1830s as a day marker for navigational purposes. Today, it is known as the Stepper Point Daymark.

We walked through sheep fields, passed many coves and inlets, a few quarries, climbed down steep ravines, and back up the other side.

Today was cold, rainy, and windy (40-45 mph). At times, I turned my back to the wind, planted my hiking poles firmly into the ground, and leaned on them to keep from being blown off the cliffs. It was a bit scary at times, but we managed to arrive safely.

Porthcoton is a coastal village known for its sandy beaches and surfing. It has legends of smuggling where fishermen claimed goods from shipwrecks and sold them to augment their income.

Porthcothan Beach and the clifftop fields nearby were used to film Poldark, especially the shots of Ross riding his horse.

After a tiring walk, we returned to the B&B in Padstow via taxi.