Land’s End, England

May 22 St Just to Land’s End (Day 10)

The cab driver picked us up at 8:40 for an early start in St. Just. We arrange to be collected at Land’s End instead of the scheduled destination.

We walked for 1.75 miles before leaving St. Just and getting onto the tough path. I fell twice on the precarious scree, the slippery pebbles on the trail. One bolder was so high that I approached it backward and shimmied over it. I had to squeeze between huge boulders near the pinnacle of one hill before starting the descent. Yes, my heart was in my throat.

The spectacular boulders reminded me how fleeting human life is compared to Nature’s elements. Many of the formations are millennial. I could split my head with one fall—humans are so fragile.  According to a Google search, bones can survive for around five centuries in soil and become powdery in the air in about 50 years, a mere flash in the pan compared to these stones.

Land’s End is very commercial. We took the obligatory photo shots and called the taxis to take us to Holbein House in Penzance, where we will stay for our final two nights on the Path. Tomorrow, we end the South West Coast Path through Cornwall.

We waited for the taxi at the entrance of Land’s End. Lined up were vintage cars for the Land’s End Classic Car Rally. They all took off at the signal except one, which sputtered, emitted foul exhaust, and only managed to creep about three hundred yards before pulling aside. I’m sure the driver was disappointed.

Land's End Classic Rally
Land’s End Classic Rally

Pendeen, England

May 22 Gurnard’s Head to Pendeen (Day 9)

We took one sick day and one scheduled day off. Luckily, our hotel accommodations were four nights in St. Ives. While Dennis recuperated, I did laundry, wrote in my journal, and rested—my shins were happy for the break.

Dennis bemoans that my paranoia of being cold on the hike caused him to pack too much clothing, which resulted in bulging suitcases and heavy daypacks. In fact, because of my fear, I purchased an additional long-sleeve shirt and sweater in Halifax. Now, I have to get rid of them. But I am reluctant to discard two unneeded pairs of shoes I added at the last minute, justifying that they cost too much to throw away.

Because he is still ailing, we decided to shorten today’s scheduled hike and get off at Pedeen (instead of continuing to St. Just and then getting taxied to Pendeen. We adjusted the logistics to accommodate changes to HillWalk Tours‘ schedule.

The shuttle taxi was 35 minutes late. At Gunard’s Head Hotel, we had to wait for cattle to cross the road. Then we missed the trail and had to scuttle to find it, losing another half hour. It’s a good thing we decided to shorten our day’s hike.

The trail was stony, muddy, undulating, but otherwise, not too difficult. Dennis’s cold made breathing difficult, so we stopped often. The trail is hard-going; the rocks, the scree ( small loose stones that cover the slope and make it slippery), the boulders, the mud, the streams, the hill climbs, and the descents make this our hardest day. My feet ache from pounding on stones, my toes throb from jamming my shoes, and my elbows ache from using the hiking poles to propel me up and then brake me on downhills.

I am elated when we get to the Trinity Light House in Pendeen. This is where we get off the trail and walk about a mile on the road to the Inn. It was a tough day!