Friday, May 16, 2014 Dover, UK

20140516_163602 Dennis with steps 300We took the complementary ship van past the port construction. From there we strolled through the city of Dover along the Marine Parade to the entrance of the White Cliffs. That took about ¾ hr. so I guess it was around three miles. From the Visitor center to the lighthouse is two miles. This took more effort as we traipsed over undulating terrain and fields dotted with rabbit holes. Round trip we climbed or descended 450 steps, but there was also a lot of scrambling.

20140516_165401 Jane on cliff 300Located where the visitor center now stands, once was a convict prison, which later became a place to detain soldiers. Most of the old buildings and military barracks are gone, but the National Trust has scattered panels at historical points to help us understand the history of the cliffs.

During WWII, the Brits built on the cliffs two super guns capable of firing across the English Channel to France. Since today was hazy we could not see that coastline.

20140516_170406 singing troubador on LangdonHoe 300From up close, the cliffs appear much whiter and taller than they did in the early morning light and from the ship. The morning chill dissipated by 10 A.M. Before long, I was in short sleeves and steaming up my sunglasses. Light cirrus clouds crisscrossed each other as much as the airplane contrails did. Seagulls and local birds with crested crowns dove in and out of the cliffs. We saw blue butterflies and learned that they are a rare sighting on the cliffs. Rabbits scampered around seemingly unafraid of us. We had to make sure not to twist an ankle in all the holes they dug.

The cliffs have insect and flower breeds particular to the area. We found winged swarms that were mating and reminded me of the Florida love bugs. After swallowing a few, I had to grit my teeth when panting uphill to prevent swallowing them.

We walked along the upper path to the lighthouse. In a copse we saw a herd of six to eight ponies or maybe short, sturdy, brown-coated horses. Passing by Langdon Hole, a crater-like earth depression, I was annoyed by loud music and wondered who was disturbing the idyllic setting. There on a hill like a troubadour of old, a young man played his guitar and sang his heart out, just for the pleasure of it. The song was Spanish with a lively rhythm. His voice amplified by the locale carried on the wind to where we were about a quarter mile away. His carefree singing made me smile. Later, we spotted this singer sunning himself, shirtless, guitar aside.

The Landgon Stairs are steps that lead down to a ship wreck. Langdon Bay is one of 61 wreck sites listed under the Protection of Wrecks Act 1973. At this site, discovered in 1974, divers found Middle Bronze Age (1300 to 1150 B.C.) tools, ornaments, and weapons. This wreck is England’s oldest submerged archaeological site.

20140516_164035 dover castle from cliffs cropped 300From the cliffs we could see Dover Castle, England’s oldest fortress protecting the shores since Roman times. There are tunnels where the evacuation of Dunkirk in May 1940 was planned. King Henry II’s tower preserves its medieval charm with furnishings and costumed interpreters representing life from his royal court. Fellow passengers later told us that the visit was worth the entrance fee, but that there was a lot of walking. Instead of going there, we opted to have lunch in a cafe that offered free WiFi. Because of poor WiFi, it took us over an hour to Skype home and post yesterday’s update.

The South Foreland Lighthouse, built in 1843 was under reconstruction, so we did not tour it. This beacon that guided ships around Goodwin Sands was the world’s first electric light faros.

20140516_180654 Port from cliffsWe took the lower route to return. This provided us with better views of the cliffs and the port. Chalk from the cliffs was used to create the docks. From the cliffs we watched as boats queued to enter the harbor. Freighters, ferries, and cruise ships took their turn. The NCL Star, moored far from the busy docks, was the largest vessel in the port that day.

20140516_184951 rabbit hole looking upAt one point, we needed to decide between two trails, the one on the right heading back up to the cliffs, the one on the left remaining lower. Dennis chose to go left. As we walked on the narrowing path, I suggested we were not where we should have been. Dennis kept insisting we were heading in the right directions and that up ahead in the shadows we would rejoin the path. I couldn’t see what he meant, but continued forward. The trees become a thicket and I felt like Alice going down the rabbit’s hole. At one point, I had to crab-walk and take care not to hook my day pack. When we cleared the thicket we faced a 30-foot vertical climb. I tried to climb it to save the mile walk back to the junction where we should have gone right. There were no hand- or footholds. As we walked back, Dennis whimpered, “You could have done it if you really wanted to.” Yeah, he probably was correct, but only as a life-saving manoeuvre. You would think that after past experiences, I would be more questioning of Dennis’s directional confidence.

Back on ship, we sat in the hot tub, and then enjoyed the drink of the day, a Tequila Sunrise as we watched the sun set on a perfect day. 

2014 Updates

20140515_214615 stateroom 300Monday, May 5, 2014.

My sister arrived as scheduled at 6:30 am to take us to the Cruise Connection stop. The bus never arrived. I spoke with someone who was awaiting transportation from another company. When the shuttle arrived, Dennis and I were lucky. The driver said he had room for two more and we could get cash for the payment at an ATM in Port Charlotte. At all the pickup points people further downstream from Sarasota, there were people stranded by the bus that did not show. By 1:30 pm, we were aboard the NCL Star and settled into our stateroom. The layout is roomier than rooms with a balcony and the porthole lets in light and gives us a view of the ocean. That night we supped with couples from New Zealand, Australia, and Canada. Dennis and I both enjoy free-style dinning and meeting new people each day. After dinner, we walked about two miles, strolling on the outer deck under a crescent moon.

Tuesday, May 6, 2014

20140515_215840 NCL gym 300The gym was crowded. Mats and people everywhere made it hard to walk around. Luckily I had gotten there early, laid out my mat and built a weight pyramid in preparation for the Cathe High Reps workout that I had on my laptop. People muttered their displeasure at my taking so much real estate and even tried to take my weights and mat. I paid them to mind. Unlike our first transatlantic crossing (2013) which had been cloudy and cold, today was sunny and warm. We took advantage of the great weather to sit in the hot tub and and eat al fresco. The musical show this evening was called Band on the Run (great voices but poor choreography). Afterwards, we went to the dining room. We were having such great conversations with three couples from Australia (Dierdre and Ian, Helen and Alex, ? and Jack) that the wait staff did not even offer us coffee in hopes that we would leave. We pushed our clock ahead one hour; the first of six time zone changes.

Wednesday, May 7, 2014

20140515_215318 hot tub 300There were fewer people in the gym this morning. I watch the last hour of Lords of the Ring while I peddled on the exercise bike. After all that work, I only burned about 300 calories. Today was again sunny and warm. We enjoyed more hot tub, wave pool, and eating on the open deck. We skipped the comedy show and had an early dinner. Afterward, we tried to walk around the promenade deck, but it was too windy for conversation, so we returned to our room for a game of scrabble—and I was the victor.

Thursday, May, 8, 2014

We’ve hit choppy seas. One of the closet doors kept squeaking through the night until Dennis got up to shut it. Since I did not sleep well because of the noise, I slept in, putting off exercise. I can’t remember when I last had eight hours of sleep. Yesterday I ran to the lounge chair from the hot tub because the deck was hot. Today I ran there because I was shivering. Everyone on deck is in long sleeves and wrapped in beach towels. 20140515_215236 NCL libraryAt the ship’s library, I took out Steven King’s book, On Writing from the ship’s library. I read this before and was going to just skim though it, but it is so entertaining that I am rereading it. I love his style and story of how he became a writer. This evening’s entertainment was the multi-instrumentalist Andy Buenger—The Power of Music. He played vibraphone, drums, saxophone, trumpet, steel guitar, panpipes, and others. I found the panpipes haunting. Joke of the day. This man is stranded on an island for years. One day, a beautiful 21-year-old woman clad in a skin-tight wet suit emerges from the water. She says, “I can see you’ve been here for a long time. Is there something you would like?” He thinks for a few seconds and says “A lovely meal.” She unzips the wet suit a bit, reaches in and pulls out a cheeseburger, which he quickly devours. She then asks if there is anything else he would like. “A nice cold beer,” he replies. She unzips the wet suit some more, reaches in and pulls out a cold Heineken. She then unzips further and asks, “Would you like a round?” Astonishingly he replies, “My god, Don’t tell me you have a golf bag in there!” Before bed, we again set the clocks forward an hour.

Friday, May 9, 2014

20140515_214638 NCL office 300Most people on deck are wearing pants and jackets to ward off the wind and the colorless atmosphere. Looking out the porthole is like looking at a pencil sketch in varying tones of gray. These breezy cool days allow me to write without guild. I am writing blogs for My Musings, my blog on writing. I will schedule them for release while I am traipsing in Europe. Once again someone tried to take my workout tools, even my personal stretch band. Is this rudeness or unfamiliarity with workout routines? I use a variety of dumbbells varying the weight for different effects. I am following a workout played on the Kindle Fire set on the floor near me. Yet people interrupt me or reach for the weight I am not using at the moment, even though there are plenty of weights on the rack. We visited the library with its extensive collection of books and discovered that the provide a daily crossword and Sudoku puzzles. I checked out the book On Writing by Stephen King. I had read it before and was going to shim over it, but it is such a delight that I am rereading it. Dennis is reading One Summer by Bill Bryson and he chortles and reads me the excerpts. We had a wonderful time at dinner with Paula and Lisa and overextended our stay with delightful conversation. We forgoed The Mesmerizing Brenda Kaye in favor of Spider Man.

Saturday May 10, 2014

Another gray day. Only the smokers are sitting on deck. Its hard to believe that we are on day 6. Tomorrow we will be in the Azores. We closed the restaurant down again and missed the magician. No big deal on my behalf. I’ ve finished reading On Writing my Stephen King. I am really glad that I picked up this book. It was a delight to read and I learned a lot from it.

20140512_132009 Ponta Delgada main street 300Monday May 12, 2014 Ponta Delgada

After a week at sea, it felt wonderful to be on terra firma. Ponta Delgado is a Portuguese island in the Azores. We disembarked around 9 A.M. and tried to get our ATM card to work. After several attempts we realized were keying in the wrong pin number for the card we had. Since it was raining, we decided not to rent bicycles. The cost was very reasonable: 10 Euros each for bicycle or 30 Euros for a scooter per day. Since this is a small island, we could have toured it, visited the volcano and crater lakes, and seen the coastline. Instead, we sat dry and warm in a cafe and caught up on emails. I called my mom to wish her a belated mother’s day wish. She was delighted to hear from me. 20140512_131906 Jane downtown Ponta Delgada 300Back in the room, we watched Saving Mr. Banks. We both enjoyed the script and acting. We shared a dinner with an interesting Canadian couple, Jillian and Barry. Twenty years ago she sailed across the Atlantic in thirty days. He is a philanthropist working with the Shriners. We talked about travel, history, and aging productively. We voluntarily skipped the comic/jugglar act, returning to the room to read/write. I am editing Dennis’s Camino book. So far this trip, we have not had great pictures. Hopefully this will change with the Cliffs of Dover.

Tuesday, May 13, 2014

Sunny, light white caps, about 60º F. Lazy day. The time switch every other day is effecting my sleep and eating patterns. I’m not tired at night and can’t wake up in the morning. My hunger is between mealtimes. Once on land, I am sure things will settle down. While exercising (I have to burn off the desserts like this raspberry torte), I watched Man of Steel. The first part was OK, but the last half hour when Superman fights aliens from Krypton was overdone. We also watched Jobs and I really enjoyed that movie, Well acted. Before turning in, we watched White House Down…another superhero-type movie I would be on the C-B list. Only one other movie worth watching, Monuments Men, and I am not sure if it will be shown again. 20140513_204031 Linda and Jane at dinner 300

We had an interesting evening with Linda, a two-time Camino Frances pilgrim who is on her way to walk the Camino Portuguese. She is also an award-winning author. The other tablemates were like-minded and the conversations flowed to many topics.

The entertainment last night was “The Look of Love – The Music of Burt Bacharach” Great music, inferior choreography. The stage is narrow, making it difficult for the 16 actors to move around. The song “How can I go one without her” made me realize the importance of not taking Dennis and our time together for granted.

Wednesday, May 15, 2014

20140509_192613 rasberry torte 300Last night’s time change made it difficult to rise. We had a late breakfast. High winds made walking on the promenade difficult, so we walked around the ship. We found Red Lion, the British-style pub and had a pint of brown beer while we played Scrabble. I slaughtered Dennis—both games. After that tall drink, we took a two-hour nap, not unusual for Dennis, but a rarity for me. Need sea legs to get to dinner. Ater another delightful dinner, we decide to forgo the entertainment in favor of watching Grudge Match with DiNara and Stallon. It was better than expected, with lots of humor. I decided to wait until we got home to edit Dennis’s book. It is just not ready from my review.

Thursday, May 15, 2014

Can you believe I slept until 10 am? Dennis woke me with breakfast in bed. (He’s such a good boy!) Today the ship enters the Bay of Biscayne and tomorrow we will be in Dover. I am looking forward to visiting the cliffs and getting WiFi so I can post my journal. From now on, the postings should get more interesting as we start to visit the various countries. On deck today it’s 55ºF. As we head north, it gets colder. I hope I have enough warm back packing clothes. I brought too many ship clothes. Instead of dumping them, I may keep them until I get into warmer climes.

Blue-green water replaces the steel-grayness of the deep seas. The swells are only a few feet high and the sailing is smooth. We see fishing boats, freighters, and carriers to the starboard side. We cannot see land, but the horizon is only 27 miles away, and Spain is beyond.. This afternoon I exercised on the cycle and ellipticals while watching Planes, an animated film. Afterward, I felt much better. It will be great to leave all this rich food behind.

Friday, May 16, 2014 Dover

We docked in Dover at 4:45 AM. Temperature is 48.6ªF. From the starboard porthole, the cliffs of Dover are not impressive, not very tall, and not very white. Perhaps they will be more impressive upon departure this evening.

August 21: Portsmouth

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAWe took the train to London from Newcastle, and then another to Plymouth. Since we missed today’s ferry to Cherbourg, France, we had to find lodging for the evening. All the hotels near the ferry port were filled. We took a bus to Portsmouth South Sea, an old district of the city. On the bus, several women discussed where we should go to find the best rated B and B. Everyone was so friendly and willing to help! Upon their advice, we stopped at Kings Road Circle. As I was putting on my backpack, someone recognized the Camino patch on the pack, and we started talking. David Johnson completed the Camino by bicycle in 2011. After a lively chat, he informed us that he owned the Victoria Court B & B, and, yes, he had an available room. Once again, the Camino provides.

We ate  Moroccan cuisine at Tourareg; something different for both of us. Of course, we had previously eaten Couscous, but not as deliciously prepared as the meal we had this evening. I will have to learn how to cook this traditional food.

Tomorrow morning we will visit Portsmouth, and then take the 4 P.M. ferry to France; at last.

August 20: Newcastle and Wallsend

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAYesterday we waited at the B & B for FedEx to deliver our credit cards. They arrived around 3 PM and we almost ran a mile with our backpacks to the bus stop to catch a ride to Hexham. We got there with just a minute to spare. From Hexham, we took the train to Newcastle. The Visitor’s Bureau helped us find lodging–a hotel chain called Jury’s…at last, I was warm in a building and had reliable, but slow, WiFi.

This morning, we took a city bus to Heddon-on-the-Wall to complete our hike to Wallsend. According to the guidebook, it should have been an easy eight-mile walk; it turned out to be twice that.

We stoppedOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA for lunch, and I tried two things that I have seen since I arrived England: Coronation Chicken (a cold chicken and curry sauce sandwich), and Ginger Beer. I don’t usually drink soda, but I liked this strong fermented ginger ale.

The walk today was mostly on a rail trail, like the Legacy Trail in Sarasota, Fl. It followed the Tyne and was quite lovely through Newcastle with all its bridges. The weather was agreeable, high 60’s, and I even rolled up my sleeves.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAFrom Newcastle to Wallsend, the trip was unbearable long. I don’t know if it was because I was anticipating the end, but that last five miles felt much longer. At last, at 4:50 P.M., we arrived at Segedunum fort and museum, which was closing. Glad to get off our feet, Dennis and I and two walking companions we met when we stopped for lunch took the train back to Newcastle for a celebratory beer.

Tomorrow we head for France.

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August 18: Heddon-on-the-Wall

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERASandra, the B & B proprietor expressed a local axiom, “Rain by seven, clear by eleven.” Since it poured this morning, I was hoping the adage was accurate. Though we had a cloud burst at 11:30, when we ducked into a tea shop, the rest of the day was sunny, though windy. Since the predominant winds come from the West, we were happy with our decision to walk to the East. For a change, the winds are to our backs, helping us climb steep hills.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAWe met several unprepared east-to-west hikers who were limping along or looking distraught. Apparently they started hiking Hadrian’s Wall Path yesterday, and their bodies had not yet adjusted. One person had so much gear, I doubt he was able to meet his destination today without taking a cab.

We walked 18 miles from Greencarts to Heddon-on-the-Wall in about seven hours. We started at 9:30 A.M. at Blackcarts with what turned out to be the last visible section of consolidated wall (First picture). The Blackcarts turret (above right) is one of the better preserved, and most likely predates the wall.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAFrom here forwards, there are only traces of the wall, sometimes lumps under the grass. Off course, the ditch on the north side of the wall and the vellum on the south side are visible. Several times throughout the day, we walked in the ditch on stones placed to prevent soil erosion and to keep our feet out of the mud.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAThe remainder of the day’s journey was through fields that were often muddy, single tracks through forests, on pavement or stone paths–even on busy streets. Often times, the only trail indicator was the green, mowed grassy corridor, and we wondered what winter hikers use to follow the path when the ground is covered in snow. Though the scenery was beautiful, nothing was breath-taking.

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This section was riddled with stiles—53 of them—almost three per mile. These ladders used to climb over stonewalls were, at times, no more than a few feet apart. See me poking my head out through the second stile in photo on left.

Unlike the middle section which is mostly distant from the road, today we walked through several villages with many opportunities for food and drink. We stopped for tea to wait out the rain, had a carrot and coriander soup for lunch, and a “carvery” (buffet) at the Swan in Heddon. With all the exercise, I had no trouble eating a plateful of food.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAFrom there, the taxi back to the B & B recorded 17 road miles and cost us £25 ($38)… a price we were only too willing to pay, since we had no other way home.

We have only eight miles left (from Heddon-on-the-Wall to Wallsend), and we should finish our hike tomorrow. Then off to France.

 

August 17: Greencarts

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERADennis felt well enough today to walk, so we took the bus to Housesteads to resume walking where we had last stopped. Because this section of Hadrian’s Wall Path does not have sufficient and convenient hiker accommodations, trekkers tend to stay in one place several nights and leapfrog to various trailheads: walking forwards, and then returning by bus; or busing ahead, and then walking back to where they are staying.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAToday was overcast, making for dark photos. It was very windy, with light scattered showers. As I walked, I commented that I have not been warm since leaving London a month ago. It is cold in the buildings; even with the thick down comforters, I shiver in bed half the night, especially when Dennis and I are in bunk or twin beds. Today, even Dennis was cold in our room at the B & B. We should be leaving northern England in a few days, after finishing walking Hadrian’s Wall, or when FedEx delivers the credit cards, which are now sitting in a local FedEx building. OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERATomorrow is Sunday and Monday is a bank holiday. Not knowing when they will be delivered makes planning our itinerary difficult.

Today’s highlight involves a standoff with a young bull who did not want me entering his pasture. I kept talking to him and he finally let me pass. He eyed Dennis in a menacing way, but let him pass also, then turned around to butt him. Dennis heard him grunt and jumped facing the bovine while making a loud angry sound; the bull relented and backed off.

From here to Wallsend 30 miles away, the terrain levels off and the Wall becomes more scattered and buried. We are going to attempt the distance in two days; we are both ready for France.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAWe had Indian food delivered to our room. I had the best Chicken Tikka Masala. We ordered what we thought would be enough food for two nights, then Dennis’ appetite clicked in. Since he has been ill, he’s eaten very little. Glad to see him back to himself. Since the start of our journey, he has lost considerable weight; I, on they other hand, have not.

Below, left picture is of Roman Alter; right one is of the milecastle ‘planter.’

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August 15: Greencarts

This morning I tried to pay my bill at the B & B, but the credit card was denied—twice. After contacting the Visa, I discovered that the credit card had been hacked and that someone had tried to purchase $10,000 worth of games on it. I was lucky that my the credit card company watches for fraud and abuses, and had blocked the card. Unfortunately, I am traveling in Europe and using the credit card has been the way we pay for our accommodations, meals, and just about everything. Not having the credit card was going to be an inconvenience.

I contacted our credit union and they offered to FedEx the replacement card to our B & B; it should be here tomorrow or Saturday the latest. I am so grateful at the assistance provided us by the Information Center Specialist at the Digital Credit Union.

We took the bus to Greencarts. Its only about nine miles away, but took about an hour to get there. The driver was very accommodating, dropping us off at an unscheduled drop. From the road we walked about a half mile to the B & B. Dennis was spent and went to bed.

In the afternoon, we took the bus to Hexham to get cash out of the ATM, go to the pharmacy, and purchase a few groceries. We had 45 minutes to scurry back to catch the last bus of the day. We had the same driver as in the morning, and he again dropped us off at Greencarts.

Hopefully Dennis will be better tomorrow.

August 14: Housesteads

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAStarting from Once Brewed and heading East is a steep ascent that gets the heart pumping. At the top of this climb, we took a 20-minute rest. Dennis awoke unwell this morning, but insisted on continuing the walk. The climb up the hill exhausted him; the break allowed him to continue forward. He is such a trooper.

Today there was just a slight wind to our backs and, for the first time on this walk, I rolled up my sleeves–guess I am acclimatizing, because it was only in the low 60’s.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAMilecastle 39 has only a north and south entrance, unlike many that have four gates. This section of the Wall (from Once Brewed to Housesteads and then to Vindolanda, where there is a Roman Fort and Museum) attracts many tourists, as evidenced in the picture on the right. Most people are day hikers without packs; there are many children and dogs. We saw a wide-eyed brother and sister walking with swords; the brother ready to defend the family from horse thieves . I guess he did not quite grasp the historical meaning of the wall.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERADescending into Sycamore Gap (left) provides this unique view and is probably one of the most photographed gaps on Hadrian’s ‘Wall. Some of my movie-buff friends may recognize the tree from “Robin Hood, Prince of Wales” where a boy was rescued by Kevin Kostner.

Archeologists are waiting for the tree to die so they can excavate the gap, believing that will unearth a lot of artifacts.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAThe wall here is very wide (right). Dennis is six feet tall and, as he lies on the wall, the wall is much wider.

Shortly after this gap, we walked in a forest. Until then, I did not realize how much I missed the woods or how accustomed  I had become to the open fields, sheep, and cattle. I found the trees very comforting.

 

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERADennis and I love to talk with other hikers. Benn, now eleven, started hiking when he was five.He has hiked in the Lakes District, a mountainous region in Northwest England,  and in the Alps. Today’s walk must have been a breeze for him.

He is a very talented guitarist and his grandfather, left, bought him several electronic guitars, including one from Eric Clapton.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAMilecastle 37 is the only one to have a partially surviving arch. These gateways limited the height of goods coming into the fort.

Coming into Housesteads, there is an opportunity to walk on the wall;  for a short distance, you can pretend to be a Roman guard walking the wall, looking down on the steep precipice to the valley below.

 

 

August 13: Once Brewed

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAWe slackpacked today, a hiking term for carrying only a small pack. Since I did not sleep well last night, I was happy to travel lightly.

We took the bus to Once Brewed, so named if going eastward, but named Twice Brewed if coming from the west. From the visitor center, we clopped on tarmac for about a mile to get onto the Hadrian’s Wall Path.

The cold winds (never hitting 60 F) made my nose dribble all day. We climbed the highest point, Winshield Crag, where there is a geological survey marker. (See left.)

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAToday’s excursion was strenuous with lots of steep climbs and descents, which I find scary. Dennis almost runs downhill while I place my feet with care and hang on to whatever I can–even a blade of grass provides me assurance. I fear banging my sore knee or tripping and falling on it. Though the gash from the  bicycle fall has healed, the knee is very sensitive to bumping.

The size of the wall is difficult to imagine. The picture on the left below shows how wide the wall can be (about 8 to 10 feet), while the photo on the right shows how high it was–imagine it with the gap filled, creating a wall stretching from the top of the rocks on the lower left to the top of the wall on the hill, perhaps 20 or 30 feet high.

The lower left picture shows the base of a turret, while the one on the right shows the ruins of a milecastle. Each small fort was spaced a mile apart and had a turret a half mile before and after it, and these stretched along the wall all across the Scotland-England border. Originally, historians thought the purpose of the wall was defense; now the thinking is that it was a way to control flow of goods into the country while applying a tariff or tax–a sort of toll road.

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August 12: Greenhead

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAThe clouds touched the Pennines Mountains in the background and  scattered showers on us throughout the day. We managed to walk 7 miles to Greenhead, stopping along the way to visit historical sites and museums. Even though the weather was gloomy, we were in high spirits.

For the past two days, I have been trying to quiet my mind and let nature and the beauty of the Wall fill me with its wonder. Unfortunately, I am too preoccupied with the now–where to put my foot without stepping into dung, the beauty of the scenery, and my unstopping mind. I think about what to blog, about what living as a Roman in this environment must have been like, or  something Dennis said which triggers a song. For me, meditating is very difficult.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAI never tire of the pastoral scenery, the sheep and cattle, the openness. This section is hilly, but not mountainous, and the alternating climbs and descents makes walking interesting. The rain made it slippery in spots and definitely muddy, but we managed to have a very good day. I am so happy to be out of cities and back to nature.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAThere are more hikers going west than east, sometimes in large groups. At the hotel tonight, we met two hikers (Stuart and Malcolm McKay who wrote a book about the Camino, The Path). They are staying at the hostel across the street from Greenhead Inn, where we are staying. They will stay there again tomorrow, take the Hadrian’s Wall Bus forward in the morning, and then walk back to the hostel. Sounds like a good plan, and we are considering doing the like.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAToday we purchased an English Heritage Oversees Pass, which entitles us to nine days of “free” entries to heritage sites throughout England. We visited  the Birdoswald Roman Fort.  The museum had artifacts from the fort, a Roman Soldier (acted by Tony Wilmott) School teaching kids dressed in Roman garb how to become a soldier; the kids were quite enthused.

It was amazing to see the archeological remains. Birdoswald housed 1000 Romans. There were granaries, baths, blacksmith shops, kitchens, butchers…everything needed to live at the fort. I find it difficult to imagine building this with the tools available 2000 years ago; it exemplifies how people underestimate the capabilities of people in ancient times.