“Cracking weather,” Bewitching panoramas, and Caribbean-like aquamarine waters made Dennis exclaim “If I had to live here for the rest of my life, I would not regret it.” We walked on single-track grassy paths, pavement, in fields with black and white cows, a golf course, a military target firing range (Tregantle Fort), through quaint and colorful fishing villages and mostly on seaside cliffs overlooking the Atlantic. I enjoyed today’s walk more than the Camino Portuguese. It is verdant , varied, and unblemished.
Choosing photos from the ones we took is difficult…all do not display the beauty of this part of Cornwall on the Southwest Coast (SWC) Path, a 630 mile path around Cornwall. We are doing only a short section between Plymouth and Falmouth, a week to ten days of walking. If what we saw today is exemplary, we will be treated to beautiful vistas surpassed by more indescribably beautiful ones. In addition, the people are very kind and generous, often going out of their way to help us.
We started off by taking a ferry from Plymouth to Crymell. The ferry’s mascot is Molly, a large black dog who has her own Facebook page. We walked through the formal gardens at the Mount Edgemont House. On the lily-strewn duck pond, we missed a SWC waymarker (acorn) and walked up to the mansion. It was lovely and we had beautiful vistas from the top of the hill, but we added at least 2 miles to our days trek.
We detoured across a gap and then up a steep incline to visit St. Michaels’s Chapel, built in 1397. I had no trouble climbing up to the ruins, but felt dizzy and scared climbing down. All that, high-altitude, open space was disorienting.
Today’s journey was long. The guide said 12 miles, but it took us more than 9 hours, which make me believe the mileage is off, in spite of the additional 2 miles or so. We arrived in Portwrinkle only to find there were no available B & Bs. There was the country club, but we did not even try that. Instead, we walked another mile to the Finnygook Inn. It was expensive, but we were exhausted and could go no further.
Your description and the pictures are beautiful. I’ve long been an Anglophile but have never been to this area–only to London, Wales, Oxford, and Cardiff.
I will share your comments and pictures with some British and other friends.
What a lovely vista. Looks like you are having a great time. Cornwall is also one of the places where they grow proper tea. Imagine that. I should have told you (maybe) ahead of time. Tregothnan estate by Truro, has a botanical garden and tea estate. They are able to grow Camelia Sinensis, from which all tea is produced. The terroir and the climate is perfect for limited production. They also grow the bergamont fruit, which gives the Earl Grey the distinct citrusy flavoring.
Looking forward to the rest of your trip report. Ingrid
Ingrid, I know very little about tea, but I am learning. Truro is not on the coast, so we won’t be walking through it.
Hi Jane!
I’m so glad you are having a good time!
Your trip so far in England sounds absolutely beautiful! Enjoy your time there; I had a wonderful time when I visited, but of course you are having a much more intimate experience with the country than I did from a train. I cannot wait to see all of your photos.
Aine, we have so many pictures…we will put together a presentation of the best.
Boy, you guys are really doing it right. What a wonderful summer you are having!
Jasmyne, I feel lucky each day. Sometimes it is difficult, but enjoyable.
hi jane and dennis-
put the town where “doc martin” is filed on your itinerary? i know its in cornwall. i think it’s port isaac (the real name of the town).
your walk sounds delightful.
Phil, I had to look that one up. We will not be walking by it.
Why did you enjoy it more than the Camino Portuguese? When I do the Camino for the first time, I thought that I might do the CP to SdC and then Muxia//Finisterre? Would enjoy hearing your thoughts of the subject.
Gail,
The reasons I enjoy the SWC Path more than the Camino Portuguese are that
* the SWC Path offers more variety in food, vegetation, and scenery
* the CP was very difficult on my feet–walking on the cobblestones was like pounding my feet with a meat tenderizer
* the weather is better (probably not fair comparing the weather)
* I was ready for a change having spent 2 months on the Iberian peninsula in Spain and Portugal
I do not suggest you alter your plans; just that for me, I preferred the SWC path. Also, I did not walk the CP coast, so I cannot compare it with that in Cromwell
Hope this helps