Ireland Archives - Woman on Her Way

August 2, Clifden

Today we celebrated our 39th wedding anniversary with a kiss atop Diamond Hill in the Connemara National Park. We asked a French woman to take our picture and everyone tsked-tsked us to stop kissing. After climbing up 400 meters (over 1300 ft) in blustery 60 to 80 mph winds, we were happy to embrace and commemorate our special day. (To see how windy it was, click on the link and notice how the umbrella flies at 90 degrees from my body. 2013-08-02-Clifden 038.)

As we climb, the wind was very strong and cold. My nose was dripping and before I could pull out a hankie, the wind blew the snot right off the mountain. At times, it was all I could do to stay where I was, waiting for the wind to die down a bit before taking the next step.

At the summit, we were rewarded with a break in the wind, a bit of sunshine, and fantastic views. We could see Kylemore Abbey, which was built as a wedding gift and is now a tourist attraction and abbey for Benedictine nuns. Dennis and I exchanged platinum rings as wedding gifts; he did not build me a castle, though I have often claimed to be Queen of Blanchardom.

On our loop walk, we spotted the Connemara ponies, known for their athleticism, versatility and good disposition, and a donkey. Since it was so windy, we did not see any of the Connemara carnivorous plants. As we sat at the summit eating a banana, I did see a yellow jacket…how it managed to fly in that wind is a wonder.

We returned to the Vaughan B & B in Clifden, had a celebratory meal and bottle of wine, and retired early. Tomorrow is a travel day; we will make our way to Belfast.

August 1: Clifden

Weather predictions for today were for 100% rain; for this reason, we did not leave Clifden. We donned our rain gear and took our umbrellas to hike a 6K loop around the city. The mountains were fogged in and we did not see the Twelve Bens, a mountain range that provides a wonderful backdrop to the town.

“Why do people like them so much? Palms had to be the ugliest trees ever. ” Forbidden Fire by Kimberly Kinrade.

I never associated Palm trees with Ireland but the Gulf Stream moderates the climate, making it mild enough for them to grow throughout the island. In southern Ireland, it’s rarely very warm, but it’s also almost never very cold either, so they thrive.

On our walking tour we saw the gateway to The Clifden Castle, originally built in 1818 by John D’Arcy, the founder of Clifden. During the potato famine, the D’Arcy family could not collect rent from the starving tenants, and the manor went into disrepair. Now the castle is privately owned.

Clifden sits on the Atlantic Ocean. The two churches in town make for a picturesque panorama of the quay, where one can see lobster traps on the docks and sailboats on the water. I am sure sunshine enhances this town’s charm. Luckily the inclement weather did not stop us from appreciating its beauty and, by limiting the tourism in town, it made it easier for us to get into bars and restaurants.

Upon returning from our hour-long walk, Dennis went “foraging” for a sweet to go with his tea. Deciding which of these treats to choose was not easy for him. Mindful of his health, he tried to select the most healthy dessert (if there is such a thing.) Which would you have chosen?

July 31: Clifden

Breakfast at the Bayberry House B & B was the best we have had in the past three months. The sideboard was filled with fruit, compote, yogurts, nuts, cheeses, cereals, homemade granola, and juice. The owner made a creamy porridge served with warm fruit compote of apples and mixed berries—the combination of flavors tantalized the palate. The breadbasket overflowed with white and whole-grain toast, soda bread, and toasted hot-crossed buns; all accompanied with dishes of marmalade and raspberry jam. In addition, if we wanted, she would have cooked a traditional-Irish breakfast.

Fortified, we left in a downpour to catch a bus to Clifden, the largest city in Connemara. On the way visibility was low. We passed lakes and mountains whose tops were enshrouded in clouds. We saw peat set out for drying, but becoming rain-drenched. Today’s plans for hiking no longer seem accomplishable. Since the weather will be noncompliant as well tomorrow, we booked a room (left) in the Vaughans Pub, Bistro, and Accommodations, one of the city’s oldest building, for three days; tomorrow will be a working day. Hopefully, on Friday we will be able to explore the area.

In the evening,we went to several pubs to listen to the Irish music, have dinner, and relax. Dennis so enjoyed the singer, Pat Coyne, that he bought his CD. The second bar promised a band at 8-ish, but they were just setting up at 9 P.M when we left. The best music was at the last place we visited. As I looked at the older patrons (mostly tourists) who were singing traditional music, clapping to the rhythm, and obviously enjoying themselves, I tried to visualize them as younger pub-goers. Sometimes people retain their younger facial characteristics; other times they change completely.

In one bar, we were treated to a Sean-nós dance (Irish broom dance) by an award-winning performer who is also the bartender. I imagine if done improperly, the dancer could lose the family jewels as he quickly jumps over the broomstick while dancing.

July 30: Galway

Helen, a recent graphic artist graduate and our “free” city tour guide, said that she was not paid for her work but was compensated by “tips” based on what we perceived was the value of the tour. She obviously did her homework, and we learned in a humorous way a lot about the city’s history and points of interest.

On Eyre Square (aka the John F. Kennedy Memorial Park and simply “The Square” by locals) are 14 flags representing the 14 clans or tribes that governed the city in the past. On the walking tour, we visited the courthouse, the cathedral, the old port, the Spanish Arch, the old city, and St. Nicolas church which Cromwell used as a stable to show his contempt of the Catholic Church.

According to legend, the Lynch Window (right) is the origin of “lynching”. During the 15th century, James Lynch was mayor of Galway. His son committed a murder (various stories why/how). James the senior believed that everyone should be treated equally under law, and death was the penalty for murder. Though the younger man’s friends tried to intercede and prevent the hanging, the father placed a rope around his son’s neck and threw him out of the family home’s second-floor window, proving that no one was above the law.

After the tour, we visited the Museum (free) and walked in the old part of the city. Since this is race week, the city was filled with tourists; hardly a seat was free in the cafes and restaurants. The layout of this part of the city has not changed since the city was walled in: the roads are narrow, the buildings are original stone, and even some of the light fixtures are converted gas lamps. Many modernized interiors retain original beams and flooring, making this part of the city very attractive.

In this part of Galway City, there are people playing the harp, penny whistle, or guitar; mimes standing so still they earn the name “living statues”, and a sand sculptor creating this realistic-looking dog.

At the Visitor Office, we researched what to do next. I am becoming a wimp and do not want to hike and camp in the cold rain, which is the prediction for the next few days. We decided to go to Clifden where there are accommodations and many circular walking trips to points of interest. Even if it pours, we can warm up in the shower and dry off overnight. What a princess I’ve become!

For dinner we both had Irish lamb…simply delightful…and a meal anyone visiting this part of Ireland should sample.

July 29: Galway

We arrived in Galway yesterday on the 5 P.M train from Dublin and tried to find our way to the B & B in Salt Hill, an area “just a 5-minutes drive from downtown center.” With lack of street signs and our need to constantly asked for directions, it took us nearly one-and-a-half hours to hoof the 2 miles. After settling in, we went to Salt Hill to walk on the beach, see the sights, and grab some grub. On the way, we purchased a full-day tour to The Cliffs of Moher and the Burren.

At this morning’s breakfast we were treated with a full rainbow, a harbinger of how great our day would be. The rain fortuitously came when we were on the bus or inside a building and the sun came out when we needed it.

The Burren in County Clare boasts a unique limestone landscape. There are rocks everywhere! Our first stop was the Connolly Family Farm, an actual working ranch. Derrick, the guide and nephew of the owner, told us that the land and mountains are owned by the farmers, not by the state as in other countries. The limestone makes for very fertile soil, ideal for cattle grazing. In the past fifty years, a reforestation has increased the amount of trees from 3 to 15 percent, mostly fir. Though the ubiquitous rock walls divide property, the rock walls over the mountains (see picture above) do not; they were built during the potato famine. The purpose of these ‘famine walls’ was to create employment for and provide income to the starving communities at the time of the potato famine. They divide nothing from nothing. Prior to the famine, Ireland had 9 million people. During the famine 2 million died from starvation and its related diseases and 2 million emigrated to other countries. You could hear the emotion in the guide’s voice…it is still difficult for the Irish to think about the famine, knowing that during that time (1845 to 1852) Ireland, then under British rule, exported large amounts of food to the English and their colonies.

In Lisdoonvarna, we saw The Matchmaker Bar. Every year in September and October, there is the Matchmaker Festival, a tradition for hundreds of years when farmers would come to this site to find a wife. If they failed to find a suitable partner, they would return to their fields until the following year. If interested, the festival this year is between 31 August 2013 and 07 October 2013.

The Cliffs of Moher is an “awesome natural spectacle.” The cliffs rise 650 ft above the sea and stretch for five miles. We were fortunate to have a clear day; it is often fogged in. I saw a Peregrine falcon, but not the orange-beaked puffins known to this region. The ride to the cliffs was an adventure and I have a lot of respect for the bus drivers that manipulate the narrow winding roads, competing with cars, trucks, and other buses for the tiny lane.

We stopped for a photo shoot at a 16th century Dunguire Castle. It is now open to the public for medieval banquets. Don’t we look the happy couple?

We returned to Salt Hill and ate at a Russian restaurant, a first for me. We were both delighted with the fare.