September 7: Amsterdam

Why is Amsterdam so noisy. Its 4:30 A.M. and the city is keeping me awake. Does the din have to do with the low altitude, the tall stone buildings, the long wide streets?

People’s voices are amplified; someone talking on a cell phone appears as if they were speaking into a megaphone. The tapping of a cane is an offensive rat-tat-tat on my eardrums. Cars rumble by for what seems like ages.

Friday night party-goers yell and giggle, but when I look out the window, I can’t see them; they are so far away, and yet so loud.

Add the underlying city din and the noise level is excruciating–I don’t even hear Dennis’ snoring. I long to be back in a quiet locale.

September 6: Amsterdam

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAThis is the West Tower, the tallest tower in Amsterdam, 85 meters (279 feet). The West Church was purposely built by Protestants in 1620. Rembrandt is buried here. In her diary,  Anne Frank mentions listening to this church’s bells while she was hiding in a storage building across the street.

As I write, the clock tower on the Rijksmuseum near the hotel where we are staying plays Fur Elise to announce 3:45. It plays different songs each time it rings. Luckily it does not chime during the night.

Amsterdam has 165 canals — with a combined length of 100 km (60 mi.) On this morning’s tour of the canals, I learned that 15,000 bikes are fished our of the canal annually, along with 10 cars and 51 dead bodies–mostly men who urinate in the canal, fall in, and cannot get out. Of interest, is that 50% of Amsterdam’s population is under 34 years of age and that 75% of the homes are owned by singles, maybe because they are so narrow.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAThe tour guides discussed Amsterdam’s architecture several times.Various forms of gables helped distinguish the old narrow buildings, as did various decorations. To the right is an example of a step gable. Other styles include spout, step, neck, bell, and cornice. Some gables include scrolls and ornamentation; others have markings that indicate what was stored in the warehouse, such as coffee, beer, meat, etc.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAThe red brick portion of  the tower on the left  is part of the old protective wall, Montelbaanstoren. The decorative tower and clocks were added in 1606. Since each of the four clocks did not keep accurate time, which caused the bells to ring indiscriminately–or not at all– the tower became known as “Silly Jack.” The tower now houses Amsterdam’s Department of Sewage and Water Management.

In Amsterdam, taxes are based on the width of the property, not the height. According to Iamsterdam.com “The narrowest house in the world is located at Singel 7. The house is a meter (about 40 inches) wide — barely wider than its front door. But appearances can be deceiving! The Singel-facing side is actually the back of the house, and the front is much wider.”

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAThis is a masthead from the replica of the 19th century merchant ship, the Amsterdam, now located at the National Maritime Museum in Amsterdam. Each year Amsterdam has a theme to attract tourist. Next year, there will be a Tall Ships Race.

Amsterdam is the second largest port in the Netherlands.  It is located on the bank of a former bay named the IJ and the North Sea Canal.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAReturning from the port, the tour boat took us on a canal where you can see seven bridges. We also traveled up the Gentleman’s canal. Here the wealthy would purchase two land plots and build one home, often with two front doors. The Herengracht is a museum depicting the homes and lifestyle of Amsterdam’s rich.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAThere are approximately 2500 houseboats on Amsterdam’s canal, some are made of concrete, some are slabs with what looks like a modular building, others are more elaborate. Imagine having a home where tour boats drive by all day and people are constantly peering in your windows.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAAfter the tour, we browsed through the tulip market. Too bad these flowers don’t grow in Sarasota, they are lovely. I would love to plant some of the giant varieties.

We snacked near the market and watched as people strolled by. It seems almost every nationality was represented; Amsterdam is really an international city.

 

 

September 5: Amsterdam

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAThe Netherlands is the most densely populated country in the world, and Amsterdam is its capital and most populous city. In addition there are the tourists. According to Wikipedia, “Amsterdam is one of the most popular tourist destinations in Europe, receiving more than 4.63 million international visitors annually, this is excluding the 16 million day trippers visiting the city every year.” As you can imagine, there are people everywhere. As we sat having dinner and people watched, we concluded that this has to be the city with the tallest people. A  Google search confirms our suspicions: the average height for all adults in the Netherlands is 6 feet 1 inch (1.85 m), making them the nation with the tallest citizens. I wonder how they navigate the almost perpendicular stairs.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAWe walked about 9 miles around the city. First we went to the Verzetsmuseum (the Resistance Museum), spending hours reading all the information and personal stories. After dinner, we strolled over to the Red Light District (RLD). On the way, the setting sun illuminated the architecture and canals (right). Once in the RLD, women clad in skimpy outfits (but nothing that could not be seen on Florida beaches) stood like mannequins or moved suggestively in large-paned window. The area smelled of hash, booze, and men. There were peep shows, strip bars, and adult toy shops. Surprisingly, the area was replete with bars and international eateries where men and women sat sipping a drink or eating dinner. There were tour groups with guides explaining the area sites. Since they spoke a language I did not understand, I could not tell what they were describing, but I am pretty sure it had nothing to do with the women, since people were looking at buildings and statues.

 

September 4: Amsterdam

Bicycles at Nijmegen train stationAs we approached the Nijmegen train station, we saw bicyclists looking for vacant spots in the multi-floor bike park. Imagine how much energy is saved in the Netherlands just with bike use.

It is strange for me to look for bike traffic; several times, Dennis had to yank me off the bicycle path. Unless riding for sport, most commute riders (and their children) do not wear helmets. Most bikes are older models equipped with baskets or panniers. Only a few have lights or reflectors.

Amsterdam Central Train Station We arrived at the Amsterdam Central Train Station around noon. The town’s cafe-lined streets are full of pedestrians (many tourists), trolly cars, and bicyclists. We passed several museums such as the Medieval Museum of Torture, Madame Tussauds Wax Museum, the Sexmuseum, Van Gogh, and others. We also walked by several Ben & Jerry’s; somehow I managed to resist the call of Double Fudge Brownie, thinking that there must be a Dutch delight in my future.

Maureen at the Tourists Office was very helpful in finding us a room and telling us about the various “must see” tours. We plan to visit Anne Frank’s house, the canals, the Red Light District (for Dennis’ sake), and take a walking tour, which we enjoyed doing in Galway and London.

We are staying at the Hotel Museumzicht in the Museum and Fashion District. To access the lobby of this ancient hotel, you need to climb what is probably the world’s most steep interior stairway–10 risers to the front door, and then another 52 to our room. We are staying on the “first” floor overlooking trees below. (See right below.)

After a delightful Indonesian dinner, we schlepped over to Anne Frank’s house. I cannot imagine living in the annex attic for two years, as she did. At thirteen, when she went into hiding, her friends recall that she was a leader, vivacious, bubbly. Once in hiding, she had to sit still and not make any noise. We are lucky her diary and writings were saved and that her father had the courage to publish them.

For the first time in about six weeks, I am warm; it is about 80 F and sunny. Perhaps this is why I love Amsterdam so much.

 

September 3: Nijmegen

2013-09-03-Nijmegen-video 028Since we left Miami on April 20, we have visited 13 countries, about half of the Western European countries: Madeira, Spain, Portugal, England, Wales, Ireland, No. Ireland, Scotland, France, Luxemburg, Belgium, Netherlands (Holland), and Germany. We took ships, ferries, trains, buses, and bicycles, or we walked; today we rode a draisine, a pedal car on an old railway from Groesbeek, the Netherlands to Kranenburg, Germany, about 20 km (16 mi) round trip. We cycled by cattle, sheep, horses, and goats; past cornfields, vineyards, strawberry beds, and acres of OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERASwiss chard. I recognized oaks, birch, chestnut, and mountain ash. At one point, Dennis stopped to pick ripe and juicy blackberries. Though pastoral, the ride was far from tranquil; Dennis an I had to yell to overcome the din of the car wheels on the rail. To listen and see us experience this unusual form of transportation, click here.

We spent about an hour visiting Kranenburg, a 13th-century town. We entered the Gothic cathedral, St. Peter and St Paul, which is very light and airy compared to others we have seen. It has a beautiful stained-glass window and two golden side altars. The one pictured below features the life of Mary.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAThis Catholic church has been a place of pilgrimage for over 700 years, because of the legend of the Holy Cross. In 1280, a boy took communion and found the wafer too difficult to swallow, so he spat it out into a tree hollow, and then confessed his transgression. Twenty-eight years later, someone found a wooden crucifix in the same tree; believed to be a miracle, people have made pilgrimages to see the cross.

The town takes its name from the local crane sanctuary and the symbol of the town is the crane.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAAfter returning to Groesbeek we took the bus to Nijmegen. There we walked around the city, visiting several parks, the old center, and the traffic and railroad bridges that cross the Waal River. Preventing the Germans from destroying these bridges was an objective of Operation Market Garden.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAWe sat in a cafe sipping on a Leffe Dubbel, a dark beer. Lisa, our server spoke English with an American accent; she helped us select our dinner. As we people watched, we realized that there are more women in Nijmegen than men. The university in town teaches the social and academic programs which do not attract many men. As you can imagine, Dennis enjoyed looking at all the young Dutch women.

September 2: Groesbeek

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAWe spent five hours today at the Nationaal Bevrijdingsmuseum 1944 – 1945, the National Liberation Museum. It is not specifically about the 82nd or 101st Airborne; it describes what lead up to the war, the occupation of the Netherlands, the liberation, and the rebuilding of the country. Though Dennis did not discover anything directly pertaining to his father, he developed a better understanding of Operation Market Garden, the code name for the liberation effort in which he participated. It also gave Dennis a better idea of the kinds of questions he needs to pursue.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAThe museum contains a chapel with books listing those that died during the occupation and liberation. It is very sobering. Not only are there plagues honoring American troops, but also some for Britain, Canada, Poland, the Netherlands, and others.

There was also a special Canadian War Brides exhibit that, in my opinion, was the best part of the museum. The artist, Beverly Tosh, a daughter of a war bride, painted 22 portraits of Dutch war brides and displays these with stories of each woman and personal objects, including a wedding dress made from parachute silk.  More than 2000 Dutch women emigrated to Canada to marry their love; 7000 babies were born in the Netherlands purportedly with Canadian fathers. “In 20 years, if there is another war, the Canadians do not need to send troops, just uniforms” was a popular post-war Dutch saying.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAFollowing the war, most abandoned gliders, armaments, helmets, and other war paraphernalia were re-purposed. Helmets were used as colanders,  glider wood for buildings, glider wheels for carts and toys, glider struts for legs for amputees,  shell casing for ornaments and candle holders, and lots more. This tobacco cutter (left), made of car and bicycle parts, is an example of such ingenuity; it is very different from today’s small cigarette rolling machines.

September 1: Groesbeek

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAIt is hard to believe that we have been in Europe for four months, arriving in Barcelona Spain on May 1. Today we took a train to Nijmegen, NL. All the signs are in Dutch, but many people speak English. From the train station, we went to the Tourist Bureau, but it was closed. Esther (left) was a receptionist for the blind museum who offered to help us locate a hotel room in Groesbeek. Unfortunately, when we arrived at the hotel, the WiFi was not working, so we found the wonderful Weidezicht B & B. (right below)

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When we arrived in Groesbeck, we went to a kabob house. We tried every language we knew to order food–the attendants only spoke Dutch. We ordered hoping to get something edible, and were pleased with a hamburger for Dennis and salad for me. Supper was easier–the waitress spoke enough English to help us select from the Dutch menu listings. As we ate, a group of Brits arrived: all were having a good time and the restaurant became very lively. Dennis tried to help them with their menu selection–talk of the blind leading the blind.

They told us about a railroad bicycle trip (fietslorrie) to Germany, which we may try.