May 21 and 22: Logroño to San Anto Abad

W hen we left OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAit was 4 C (34 F) and overcast. We followed the Camino for 12 km (7.5 mi) because it was paved. Once over the dam, we got instructions from locals to ride to the end of the park and take the access road on the left. It didn’t look right, but we continue to the top, where a lawn keeper told us to go left, down the hill. There we rejoined the Camino. We pushed the bikes up the dirt path for about 2 km (1.2 mi) and got back onto pavement. From there we followed the N-120 to Sorte and then Naverette. Most of the bikers we lost, several told us to go back. Dennis is a good map reader and we arrived in Najera 31 km (19 mi) later. We biked most of the day in the cold rain, and I could go no further. The albergue we stayed at is one we stayed at 2 yrs. ago: 60 people in one room. Showers, by the time we got there were cool, but it felt great to get out of our wet clothes and into something dry.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAAfter supper, we went to sleep at 9:30 P.M. The next morning they turned on the lights at 6 A.M, and we left the albergue by 8. It was a little warmer, but overcast. We used bags to keep our feet warmer and dry. The totes I had been using were shredded by walking on the Camino, the bags worked well and since they are in the shoes, will not get destroyed.

The ride today was on the N-120, very hilly and with heavy truck traffic. I find it very scary to have the semis whizzing by, buffeting us with the turbulence as they pass. The shoulder is very narrow with a ditch on the right. I must have been hyperventilating from the tension because I suddenly felt dizzy. After a break, we went a little slower.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAWe met Frank, a 67-year-old Norwegian who has biked all the way from Norway, towing a Bob Trailer. He suffers with the hills, telling us he has bad lungs. He is tough, pushing his bike up the high hills. I hope he makes it to Santiago and does not get discouraged with the challenging terrain.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAWe biked 55 km today to San Anton Abad, because we recalled that this was such a great 3-star hotel. The proprietors recalled us, and upgraded our room to a suite. How grand is that! I luxuriated in a hot tub, feeling all the tension leave. I am starting to have sore knees from all the climbing; it will be nice to get the high plains called the Meseta.

Dennis and I agree that biking in Spain is so much more difficult than hiking. As bikers, we are more affected by the temperature, the elevation changes, and the lack of signage than the walking pilgrims. Of course, this is an unusual year—even the Spaniards are complaining about the unseasonable cold and rainy weather.