Much has happened since I last posted. Last fall, I took several trips cruising the Caribbean and even visited the Panama Canal. Since I had previously toured many of the islands, I chose not to write about them again. And then the pandemic arrived and I canceled all travel plans. Though I do walk 6 – 8 miles daily walk around the community, I have been feeling cooped-up.
Recently, I read Travelled Far by Keith Foskett. (For my review, click here.) The book discusses the benefits of local hiking. I immediately decided to do the same and hike trails around Sarasota Florida. Though still flat, these unpaved trails would offer me relief from inner-city environs and the constant pounding on a solid surface.
Red Bug Slough Path
My first adventure was to Red Bug Slough (pronounced SLOO) a broad, shallow channel filled with flowing water except in periods of extreme drought. In this marsh, there are many forms of wildlife, and my husband and I saw turtles, an alligator, red dragonflies, woodland ducks, egrets, and other waterfowl. Though we only saw shiners at the water’s edge, fishing from shore is permitted.
Red Bug Slough Turtles
The preserve is only 72-acres but the hour-long walk was as wonderful as walking in a huge wilderness tract. The birds and bugs replaced the city sounds with soothing background noises. The soft and sometimes muddy earth enticed us to keep going. The oak forest and pine flatwoods provide cooling shade. And all of the “wilderness” within a few miles of home.
Red Bug Slough Oak Tree with Spanish Moss
I will have to return when the summer’s wet season is over to visit some of the trails that were not accessible. For those who do not like walking on the grass and dirt, there is a paver block walkway along the southern boundary of the preserve, though we did not visit that.
We started our busy day exploring LA at the La Brea Tar Pits. Dennis had wanted to see this ever since he had first learned about it as a child. As we watched the pit bubbled and rippled. At this world famous fossil site, more than one million bones have been recovered representing over 231 species of vertebrates.
Afterward, we explored three pavilions at LACMA (The Los Angeles County Museum of Art). There was a special Picasso and Rivera exhibition at the Broad Contemporary Art Museum that we enjoyed. We also visited the Resnick Pavilion and the Ahmanson Building. Having Tom share his art knowledge with us made the viewings all that more special.
Levitated Mass is the large-scale sculpture by Michael Heizer on the LACMA campus.
We walked beneath Levitated Mass, the 340-ton boulder affixed above a concrete trench. This world-renowned installation caused a ruckus when being transported to the campus.
Bronson Caves. Do you recall seeing the cave in Batman?
We toured several neighborhoods and then visited Griffith Park, a large municipal park at the eastern end of the Santa Monica Mountains, in the Los Feliz neighborhood of Los Angeles, In the park are the Bronson Caves which have been used in many movies and TV shows.
We reserved a tandem bike from our hotel room. By the time we got to the beach, it was raining and only 54º F. Determined to try riding a bike built for two, we decided to try if for at least one hour. As we peddled, the rain stopped and we had an enjoyable ride. As Dennis said, “We didn’t end up in divorce court.”
The amusement park on Santa Monika Pier in the distance.
Along the coast, there is a concrete bike path known as “The Strand” that runs from Santa Monica to Redondo Beach–about 17 miles. It is supposed to be for bicyclists but we had to contend with pedestrians and joggers who were apparently misinformed as to the purpose of the path. We rode from Venice to the historic Port Los Angeles or the Mile Long Pier. Today nothing remains of the wharf except the historical marker. With the wind at our backs, we made go time on the return trip, finishing in a little over two hours.
Looking towards the historical Pier of Los Angeles
Guatemaltiera Bakery and Restaurant
After dropping off the bikes, we strolled along Venice Beach. Since the wind was cool, we decided to return to the hotel. Once there, we walked to the Guatemaltiera Bakery and Restaurant for a snack. It was difficult choosing what to eat. I had a cookie that was delicious with the Guatemalan coffee. Dennis had strawberry shortcake and tea.
Dennis enjoying a Guatemalan cake
We drove through Hollywood on our way to the Santa Monica Mountains. We passed the Hollywood Walk of Fame, the Hollywood Wax Museum, Ripley’s Believe it or Not Odditorium, and lots more On one corner a street band was attracting a large crowd and impeding the traffic
The Hollywood Walk of Fame comprises more than 2,600 five-pointed terrazzo and brass stars embedded in the sidewalks along 15 blocks of Hollywood Boulevard and three blocks of Vine Street in Hollywood, California
At sunset, we drove Mulholland Drive to see LA from above. We got to the Hollywood Bowl Overlook just as the sun was setting and the vistas were magnificent.
Hollywood bowl
Hollywood is split by the mountains. On the other side is The Valley. Unfortunately, it was too dark to get good photos.
Rose garden entrance to the Natural History Museum
The Natural History Museum (NHM) in Los Angeles is the largest natural and historical museum in the western United States, It started in 1913 as the Museum of History, Science, and Art. The main building alone is worth seeing It has massive marble-walled rooms and a domed and colonnaded rotunda,
We started with the Gem and Mineral Hall on the first level. I was fascinated by the variety of precious rocks, many found in California. We were lucky to see a special diamonds exhibit featuring four of nature’s rarest colorful diamond masterpieces. The star of this showcase was the Juliet Pink diamond, renown for its exceptional clarity, size, intense color grade, and lack of inclusions. Another of the featured gems was The Rainbow Necklace comprised of blue-grey (extremely rare), green-yellow, orange-pink, purple-pink, and brown-orange diamonds. Though the stones and settings were beautiful, I have never favored diamonds over other stones. But seeing these works of art was a great opportunity.
Tiger in an NHM diorama
The African Mammal Hall is a collection of dioramas portraying the animals in natural settings. I was surprised by the giraffe’s short body; I wondered how the animal did not topple over. I was surprised to see a honey badger among the displays.
Honey badger
The Dinosaur Hall has 300 real fossils, and 20 complete dinosaurs and ancient sea creatures.
The Age of Mammals Hall shows the diversity of mammals featuring a total of 240 specimens, including 38 articulated mammal skeletons.
The Becoming Los Angeles exhibit tells the 500-year story of how Southern California went from tiny pueblo to sprawling metropolis. I particularly enjoyed the 1939 city model of downtown Los Angeles.
The California Science Museum
Space shuttle fuel tank outside of the California Science Museum
Although there were more levels to explore, we decided to visit the nearby California Science Museum. Entrance to this museum is free, but there was a charge to see the space shuttle Endeavor which is on permanent display. Since we had seen other shuttles, we decided to return to the hotel and then meet up later for a Korean dinner.
Kimchi
Tom took us to the International Food Court in Koreatown in downtown LA. It was my first time tasting Kimchi which is said to be one of the world’s healthiest foods. Kimchi is a reddish fermented cabbage (and sometimes radish) dish made with a mix of garlic, salt, vinegar, chile peppers, and other spices. It was an interesting experience. We all ordered different meals so I was able to sample spicy boiled pork, bulgogi, a barbecued beef dish, and Korean-style octopus and shrimp appetizers. For beverages, we had a Korean beer and a Korean rice wine which was sweet and fruity.
We left Long Beach on the Catalina Express for Avalon on the Catalina Island. In the background are snow-capped mountains. We passed the Queen Mary on our left and several cruise ships. Soon the ferry motors picked up speed for the remaining hour-long ride.
The weather was ideal with cloudless skies and warm enough for me to ride on the open upper deck without a jacket.
We passed a pod of forty dolphins. As I looked back towards Long Beach miles away, L could see an orange-brown mist hovering over the valley. It reminded me of the nicotine stains that mom and I would wash off the walls and furniture back when everyone smoked. I can’t imagine how the smog would look without the existing emissions control.
Dennis leaving the ferry, Catalina Express
Entrance to the Casino which is not a gambling but an entertainment center. The Catalina Casino opened on May 29, 1929.and has been the venue for great entertainers, Broadway productions, and first-run motion pictures.
The Wrigley Memorial & Botanic Garden is Santa Catalina Island, California, is a memorial to William Wrigley Jr. To get here, we had a 30-minute walk up Avalon Canyon from downtown Avalon.
We were lucky to see The Catalina Island fox (Urocyon littoralis catalinae) a species indigenous to the island for at least 4,000 years. It is tiny, weighing only about 5 pounds.
There are many unusual cacti in the botanical gardens. This is the Black Aeonium
View from the top of the memorial. In the distance is the snow-covered Mount Baldy, is the highest peak of the San Gabriel Mountains, and the highest point in Los Angeles County, California.
After returning to Avalon, we ate the Bluewater Grill before returning to the marina for our ride back to LA.
This morning we met our son Tom at his place of work. After checking out the place and meeting some of his fellow artisans, we went to Cafe 50 for lunch. This is a quaint retro eatery that has walls covered in 50s memorabilia. The menu was typical of 50’s dinner, but the back page listed about 40 different milkshakes. Dennis and Tom both had a strawberry shake for dessert. The waiter placed their cherry-topped beverage on the table and then returned with what was left in the blender. With such an ample serving, the almost waddled out the door.
We took our first LA metro ride to downtown LA. Tom really knows the city and took us to some interesting spots Here are some of the things we saw.
City Hall, built in 1928, is often seen in movies.
Atrium at the LA Public Library
The LA public library serves the largest population of any publicly funded library system in the United States. The Tom Bradley Wing contains a number of art projects commissioned by the Department of Cultural Affairs. In the atrium, three massive chandeliers created by Therman Statom hang from the ceiling Eighteen feet in diameter and brightly colored they are fun to look down on from the third floor.
The building is a major architectural landmark in downtown LA. It was originally built 1926. In 1993, the Tom Bradley addition was added. Though there are free docent tours of the building and its art, we did it on our own.
We also visited the many parks in the area, the Bradbury Building and Union Station. We saw the country’s shortest, Angels Flight— that runs up and down the hill between Hill and Olive streets. It does not run often, but many of you may recognize it from the movie, LA LA Land.
After traipsing around in downtown LA, we stopped at the Grand Central Market for a quenching brew. This emporium has hosted food vendors & florists, plus game nights, movies & other events, since 1917. We stopped at the Golden Road and had a Back Home Stout. The beer was dark with a strong taste of hops and molasses. It also had an APV of 11.25%. Wow!
La Placita Church is one of the original Catholic churches in downtown LA
Enjoying a refreshing beer at the Central Market
Frank Gehry-designed the Disney Concert Hall (on left) with striking steel architecture & pristine acoustics.Note the mountains in the background.
Victor Clothing Company mural depicts Anthony Quinn in the 1964 movie “Zorba the Greek.” It was painted on the side of the Victor Clothing Building in 1985 by Eloy Torrez and was recently restored.
Our predawn departure for LA meant traveling without coffee. I was surprised to get a delicious cup of Starbucks coffee on the leg from Sarasota to Atlanta. It tasted great with the biscotti they served.
The plane flew lower than normal to evade the headwinds, but from my window, I could only see clouds until we were over a desert just before the Continental Divide. I can’t imagine what it was like for the settlers to cross that region and I have a lot of admiration for their stamina.
At LAX, we sat on the tarmac for over an hour. The pilot said that the plane that was currently at our gate was having trouble departing. Later at the restaurant, someone told us that there was suspicious activity at the airport that prevented planes from arriving/departing, though I could not confirm the validity of this statement, it makes sense especially with all the airport security since 911.
LAX is not as pretty as other airports but is was efficient, and we were soon on our way. Though we had not planned to check our bags, we were forced to do so in Atlanta because the overhead luggage compartments were full. Since airlines now charge to check bags, more people carry them on. When there is not enough room, the last one’s to board the plane are forced to check the luggage. Of course, since you have to remove medicine, computers, and lithium batteries before checking the bags, Dennis and I had to unpack everything. Fortunately, I carry a small Sea-to-Summit day pack which I used to stow our belongings.
LA with snow on the mountains, Photo from the LA Weekly
I am stunned by the beauty of the San Gabriel Mountains that frame LA on the east. Their starkness contrasts with the city’s skyline.
We arrived at the Avenue Hotel too early for the 3:00 pm check-in and so we went for lunch at the nearby Mexican Village Restaurant. They are renown for their margaritas as well as their food. As tired as we were, we decided to return for the beverages during a future happy hour and just had wonderfully tasty authentic food. If you come to LA, I recommend this restaurant, though Tom tells me the Mexican food sold on the food trucks is fantastic. I’ll have to compare the “roach coach” food to that of the restaurant’s.
In the evening we walked the East Hollywood neighborhood and stopped at the Guatemalteca Bakery and Restaurant. It was deciding on a treat but with the help of a customer I picked a cookie that would taste great with coffee and Dennis chose a cheesecake. I also bought a Faraon chia seed mango juice just because it was unusual. I think this drink would taste even better with rum.
We ended the day early with expectations of visiting with our son, Tom, in the morning. The weather will be warm on Thursday and Friday and then change for colder and wetter. I want to do our outdoor adventures with temperatures in the high 70s instead of low the 60s.
My wanderlust has been in full bloom for months and I am finally going to scratch that itch with a trip to LA. Los Angeles has several nicknames: The Big Orange, The City of Angels, La La Land, and the City of Flowers and Sunshine. I’m not interested in the glitz of stardom, so I won’t be visiting the “glorious Hollywood” scenes. For me, the art, history, and beauty of the environs have greater appeal. And since my son has been living there for about ten years, I am hoping he will lead us to the less touristy and more flavorful sites.
For the next ten days, the weather in LA will range from lows in the 40s to highs in the lower 70’s. Coming from Sarasota, that temperature range is cool for me and I will have to pack “warm” clothing and, most likely, will not take a bathing suit. I may bring bike clothes because Dennis and I would like to rent a tandem. With my lack of balance, having Dennis in control may prevent a fall, but that is no guarantee since we have never ridden a bicycle built for two.
We leave before dawn on Wednesday, Mar 1 and arrive in LAX eight hours later. With the three hour time difference, I’m sure Dennis will need a nap before we meet our son for dinner. It’s been a long while since we’ve seen him and I’m sure our week’s visit will go by too quickly.
As the week progresses, I will tell you more about the places we visit and the people we meet. I hope you will follow along or our little adventure to the west coast.
We arrived at Middlebury, VT, around 11 PM. Late to find accommodations, but we were not prepared to find that the inns were full. Middlebury College was having an athletic camp. As a result, all the rooms were taken.
As we were leaving Middlebury on Route 7, I spotted a small motel with a vacancy sign. We got the last room. It was small, but better than driving thirty miles to the next town.
The next morning, I dropped Dennis of at the trailhead to complete hiking the Long Trail. As he walked into the woods, I did not envy him, as I thought I might. It was cold and pouring, similar to the inclement weather we experienced on the first half of the trail. It seems that hiking in the Vermont rain is his fate.
It took me about three hours to drive to Hampstead, NH, where I stopped to visit the old house. Seeing it flooded me with thirty years of memories and lots of emotions. I didn’t want to stop at the beginning of the drive. I wanted to pull into the yard as I had done countless times before. Wisely, I took a look-see and backed out, heading to Matt and Aine’s house in Newton, MA.
The drive from Vermont, the farthest I have driven in a long while, felt like an accomplishment. With good directions and a tankful of gas, I arrived safely. Dennis does not like being a passenger. As a result, he chauffeurs me. Since I don’t enjoy driving, this arrangement works well for both of us, and I get caught up on my reading.
This morning, the youth group was up early, but was relatively quite. They certainly did not follow the leave no trace principles. They dropped wrappers on the ground, washed dishes near the water source, and left the seat up on the privy to attract varmint and flies.
We have about six miles to walk to get to RT 125 at Middlebury Gap, starting with a 1000 vertical climb. Why is it always up first thing in the morning?
We have thirty shelters to visit before reaching Canada. At my slow rate, it will take another 25 to 30 days, not counting zero days. We do not have time to finish hiking the LT before a writers convention that we have planned to attend in early August. We will need to decide whether to cancel attending the conference or stop the hike early. After last night’s late hike, poor rest, and sore feet, the latter is appealing.
There is no spring in my step today. I sound like Darth Vadar and each step is plodded like Godzilla’s. Since I usually start off before Dennis (he catches up quickly), I climbed Worth Mountain for about 45 minutes before I stopped to catch my breath, cool down, and wait for Dennis. Worth Mountain really was not worth all the effort. There was no reward—no glorious view, in fact, no views at all. In more than three weeks, the Green Mountains’ canopy and the socked-in peaks have provided only two glimpses of the range’s majesty.
Once again, the profile map leads us to believe the climb is easier than it really is. And the contour map is hard to follow since we never really know where we are.
Dennis and I discuss stopping. Dennis thinks we should stop, he is afraid that I might end up hurting myself in the next half of the Long Trail, which is much more steep and difficult. I don’t want to give in. I know that I can finish the LT as long as I go at my turtle pace. So what if it takes time—what’s the rush anyway? We opt to take a few day off in Middlebury, and then decide.
The last forecast was sunny for the foreseeable future. Vermonters must be short-sighted. Within twenty-four hours of that prediction it started to pour. Drenched, we stopped at a shed near the ski slope chair lift to change into dry clothes, don rain gear, and try to call Doug McKain. As usual, there was no phone service. When we left the shed, we started climbing again. Dennis commented that it did not make sense to be going down a ski slope and having to climb.
Middlebury Inn, one of America’s Historic Hotels
We did not know at the time that the road at Middlebury Gap was less than half a mile away, Within minutes of arriving at the trailhead, a woman stopped to give us a ride into Middlebury, about thirteen miles east. She mentioned several lodgings, but we decided to stay at the centrally located Middlebury Inn, one of America’s Historic Hotels. She also said how lucky we were to get there today because the roads would be closed for maintenance for the next several days and it would have been impossible to hitch a ride.
After a nice hot shower, we went to Two Brother’s Tavern for a local brew and hamburger. The atmosphere in the restaurant was welcoming and the servers very attentive. The food was plentiful and we left stuffed and ready for a nap.
When I checked my emails, I found out that my book Hadrian’s Wall Path: Walking into History was a finalist in the Florida Authors and Publishers Association (FAPA) presidents awards in the Adult Nonfiction category. The winners will be announced at the Awards Dinner at the FAPA conference in early August.
With this news, we made our decision. After 132 miles on the Long Trail, we were stopping. Dennis may return to complete the hike after the convention, if things work out.
Middlebury, VT
We contacted Doug and arranged for him to shuttle us on Thursday from Middlebury to North Troy, where we have the van. We will visit our daughter and her family until Monday, and then head home.
I’m disappointed for not completing the 272-mile wilderness trail. I’m proud for having hiked half, even if it is the easier portion. The record breaking rain, the unseasonable cold, and the difficult terrain challenged my physical limitations. Without Dennis’ assistance, I most likely would have dropped out sooner. This was my first—and last—wilderness hike.
In planning future adventures, I will take temperature into account. I can no longer deal with the cold. Perhaps hiking in sunny Italy will be more to my liking.
ext ten days, the weather in LA will range from lows in the 40s to highs in the lower 70’s. Coming from Sarasota, that temperature range is cool for me and I will have to pack “warm” clothing and, most likely, will not take a bathing suit. I may bring bike clothes because Dennis and I would like to rent a tandem. With my lack of balance, having Dennis in control may prevent a fall, but that is no guarantee since we have never ridden a bicycle built for two.
