Journal - Woman on Her Way

June 25: Santiago de Compostela

We arrived in Santiago de Compostela on June 25 (six months before Christmas) hot, thirsty, tired, and with sore feet. On the way to the cathedral, we got a hotel room so we would not have to carry our backpacks. From there, we limped to the Pilgrim’s Office to get our certificates of completion. The person at the office assumed I did the Camino for religious or spiritual purposes and gave me a Compostela; Dennis on the other hand received the certificate for completing the Camino for sport, culture, or health reasons. I am envious; I prefer his.

On our last days, we both developed blisters: Dennis on his toes and I on the heels. Both our feet have grown, Dennis is now a size 15.5 and I am a woman’s 9.5. At the shoe store, Dennis had only one option. If his feet continue to grow, I wonder if we will be able to find him shoes on the continent.

From the Pilgrim’s office we went to a cafe and celebrated with a beer. See how tired but happy Dennis appears. Exhausted, we tucked in at 8:30 P.M, forgetting to take an ibuprofen and consequently achy for most of the night.

In the morning, we went to the Pilgrim’s Mass and saw the Botafumeiro de Santiago de Compostela, a large incense burner swing over the pilgrims at the end of Mass. I was disappointed in today’s sermon. It had little to do with pilgrims (all about parents and educators teaching the young) and was delivered monotonously. I preferred the ceremony more in 2011, where the sermon was more appropriate for me as a pilgrim.

In the afternoon, we went in search of replacement clothes and to see which was better: sell our bikes or ship them home. We decided on the latter and will spend most of tomorrow completing the arrangements. We have decided to backpack through Europe, taking trains and buses as needed–I am too clumsy to continue biking. To date my falls have not been too damaging, but I have lost my mojo for biking. Dennis said that even though he loves biking, he loves me more and does not want to see me hurt. Isn’t he romantic! Now that decision is made, we need to plan our course, but I think we will be in England soon.

June 24: Padrón

Today could not have been more perfect–excellent weather, late start (11 A.M.) soft soil for the most part, short distance. To top it off, as we entered Padrón, someone had written J.B. the best on the sidewalk. Omen?

We had a late afternoon lunch with Tony and Lauren, a mother-daughter team from California. Fun people to talk with. After than we entered Padrón. As we crossed the river, we could see about a thousand “brownies” or lake trout.

After settling in we went to O’Pementero (statue in front of restaurant) a local eatery specializing in Padrón peppers. We had a serving of peppers with beer, and then visited another restaurant for another beer and the local cheese. As Sonia pointed out, we will need to return to a vegetable-based diet soon.

In spite of all the eating, Dennis has lost 8+ lbs. We will go to a pharmacy before we leave Spain to get the official weigh-in.

June 24: Caldas de Reis

Glorious walk—perfect hiking weather, wonderful vistas, good food, and a good companion. We pounded our feet for 35.4 km (almost 22 miles); at the end of the day my legs were sore, but thank goodness for ibuprofen.

Dennis and I are amazed by all the rock in Spain and Portugal. They use granite for fence post, buildings, roads, picnic tables, plazas, and you name it; white stone for cobbled sidewalks; marble inside and outside homes. Large granite slabs are often stacked like we would stack firewood. The mountain trails are stoney (or wet). Everywhere there is rock, and yet the ground is fertile and gardens abound.

Since it was Sunday, we had to walk 2.5 hours and over Alto de Canicouva at 145 m (900 ft). Coffee tasted so good I had two cups. As we crossed the old section of Pontevedra, we saw the 18^th century chapel Santuario da Perregrina, shaped like a scallop shell. Nine miles later and dreaming of a beefburger, we arrived at San Amaro. To my delight, the had beef hamburgesas.

We arrived at Caldas de Reis to find a festival. There were music, games, and inflatables for the kids. The albergues were full with teenagers from nearby towns and they opened the school to accommodate pilgrims. We stayed in a hotel near the river, not knowing that it was near the center of that evenings activity.

After washing up, we sat by the river, enjoying the sun, and eating local foods. We shared a meat empanada (mine is better) and octopus grilled with garlic and spices. We were in heaven, perfect way to end a perfect day. Until…

We returned to the hotel. About 10 P.M. the music started, not more than 100 feet from out hotel room. At midnight there was fireworks coming out of a small building constructed for the occasion and which they subsequently burned down. After the pyrotechnics, the music restarted. The fiesta is the Bonfire of St. John and 24 June is regarded as the Catalan nation day, similar to our 4th of July. They had really good singers, but I was exhausted and wanted sleep. At last, I remembered my earplugs which muffled the noise enough for me to fall asleep. Dennis said they were still partying it at 4:30 A.M. The Spaniards know how to enjoy themselves.

We were forewarned that most cafes would be closed in the morning. Since we are walking only 18.1 km (11 miles), we are not rushing out today. Dennis is using his amateur radio as I write this blog. We will mostly start to walk around 10:30 or 11: 00 A.M. Tomorrow we should be in Santiago.

June 22: Arcade

All the rest yesterday paid off. We walked about 25 km (15.5 mi) today, including two steep hills amounting to 388 m (1273 ft) climbs. The descents were more arduous than the rises, but provided us with beautiful vistas. Descending Monte Cornedo we could see Redondela in the distance. (left)

We stopped at the central square in Redondela to put on sunscreen and cool our feet. From there, we proceeded to Arcade, a small town on the Vigo River. The hill up was draining me…all I wanted was a lemonade or an ice cream. Just when I thought it would be possible, the road veered and we climbed some more. I was drenched by the time we peaked the mountain, where we took off our packs to let our shirts dry. As we rested, seven bicigrinos on mountain bikes passed us…I can’t imagine how difficult a climb that was for them.

As we entered Arcade, we spotted this shrine to pilgrims on the wall of someone’s house. People left small items in the grotto.

I am always amazed at how lovely the interior of hotels are compared to the ancient outsides. The same is true for homes; as I peer into open doors or windows, the modern interiors seem incongruous to the exteriors.

June 21: Porriño, Spain

Leaving Tui we saw this stone sculpture. Most of the earlier part of the day was along dirt paths and country roads. The weather was cool and just right for walking. Since we were in the Louro valley, the air smelled clean like an early spring day. We crossed several old Roman bridges (if you look carefully at the picture, you can see how the cart wheels wore away the stones.) Though there were some muddy patches along the river, I managed to keep my feet dry, at least until we had to walk single file in tall grass. This section was not well waymarked, and I was doubting the advice received by a fisherman. I am still not sure if this was a local shortcut or the actual Way, but we eventually found the yellow arrows guiding us to Santiago.

I thought a lot today about what to do when we return to Santiago. We can take time off to visit Muxia and the Little Fox House; go to León and finish the bicycling Camino–either by peddling or on foot; or go to Santander, Spain to take the ferry to England or France. More importantly, I must to decide if I have the courage to return to biking or not. Busy mind.

Both in Portugal and Spain, people adorn their houses with roses, geraniums, and hydrangeas. In addition to flowers, many homes have gardens with various crops, especially kale, Brussels sprouts, potatoes, onions, and beans. Many gardens have grape vines, orange or lemon trees, with occasional nut trees. Many also have chickens, even in the suburbs.

After walking about 8 km through industrial ways, my feet and legs were sore. Just before entering the old quarters of Porriño, we passed the 100 km marker. After stopping for tea, Dennis said I walked as if I had just gotten off a horse. Since we were both tired, we called it quits, cutting this section (31 km) in half. We both appreciated the hot shower and nap.

June 20: Tui, Spain

Yesterday when we left Ponte de Lima, it was only 14 C (57 F), cloudy, and with a 50% chance of rain. For this reason, I put on all my rain gear and covered the backpack. After three hours, all my clothes were wet from perspiration; the plastic rain coat and pants preventing evaporation; but at least I was warm. Yesterday was the most difficult stage of the Camino Portuguese with a steep climb to Portela Grande at 405 m (1329 ft). At one point, I was holding onto roots, branches, and rocks to keep from falling backwards. Halfway up was a monument to Michelle Kleist , pilgrim, who was killed in a plane crash in Moree, Australia, on 30 March 2011. This reminded me of the Iron Cross on the Camino Frances. The descent is usually harder for me, but this was not too steep and I did just fine. It was a glorious day.

That night we stayed in a pension in São Rogue where the bath and electronics had Dennis laughing. He had to fix the shower doors before we could shower, then the water drained too slowly and I had to shut the water to prevent the basin from spilling out onto the floor. Additionally two of the three bulbs in the bathroom were missing.

When we checked into the pension we were told there was WIFI but that the son would have to type in the password. (You are probably wondering why there was such secrecy—we did). Unfortunately, after all that commotion, the WIFI did not work.

Today started off cold but warmed up. We had a short uphill walk and before we knew it we were on a 16-km downhill walk to Spain. This afternoon, we stopped on a hillside for a picnic lunch and for Dennis to set up his amateur radio station. He wanted to make radio contact with people while still in Portugal and this was his last opportunity. We were there for about 2.5 hrs, long enough for the sun to disappear behind clouds. I read the book The Alchemist by Paulo Coelho while he “conversed” via Morse code.

We visited the fortressed city of Valença, Portugal It was very commercial with lots of shops selling linen and clothes. It is a maze of streets which made it difficult to leave. From there, we crossed the Minho (Portuguese name) or Miño (Spanish name) River into Tui, Spain. We are staying in a pension not far from the cathedral. It was such a relief to not have to eat a Portuguese meal. It seems most restaurants for the past 20 days have cod, trout, or pork or veal cutlets with salad and French fries. Tonight, I had a lentil soup and Dennis had a pasta salad for first; we both had meatballs (pork) for second.

June 18: Ponte de Lima

Left Tamel (São Pedro Fins) and within 15 minutes we needed to put on all our rain gear. Of course, once we had it all on, it stopped raining. We had to walk 1.5 hours before coffee…you would have laughed to see me almost run down the hill to the cafe. It’s amazing how hungry hikers can get; even with a late supper, we awaken with rumblings for food.

Because of recommendations, we planned to stay at Casa de Fernanda, a private home that provides accommodations for nine pilgrims in a newly built bungalow. We were also looking forward to a short day, wanting our feet to recover from the cobblestones. Best decision–especially because it rained all afternoon.

When we arrived, there were two people there from Brazil, one a priest. After a short while, four South Africans from Capetown arrived, and then a doctor from Germany. Once we got settled in and had lunch in the hosts’ lovely kitchen, we returned to the cabin where we enjoyed an adult “pajama party”. Two of the South Africans went to the market and returned with six bottles of red wine and two of port. We spent the afternoon warm, comfy, and sheltered, sipping vinho tinto and regaling at each other’s stories. I had tried to write in my journal but quickly put it away to partake in the camaraderie.

That evening the hosts Fernanda, Jacinto, and their daughter Marianna served us a delicious “supa verde”, kale soup, and salad from their garden, homemade bread, and baked chicken which they raised. After the meal, they extended their hospitality with stories, and regional songs and dances. What fun! Thank you, Ingrid and Tracy, for the recommendation.

After breakfast and goodbyes, we had a leisurely walk to Ponte de Lima. This was one of our best days for walking–easy climbs, mostly asphalt, and ideal weather. In Ponte de Lima, the winds picked up and it got cooler as the clouds went over the mountain. I expect rain again tonight.

We had lunch near the bridge (Ponte de Lima). I have been craving a tuna fish sandwich and this cafe offered one. When traveling in a foreign country, one must be open to variations in customs. Dennis and I laughed; this sandwich not only contained lettuce, tomato, and tuna, but also ham, cheese, and a fried egg. Once again, I was ravenous and quickly consumed the sande.

Tonight we will try a local, spicy stew (Arroz Sarrabulho) …something different from the ubiquitous fried cod, sardines, or pork steak. Tomorrow is supposed to be our hardest day as we climb 18 km (11 mi) over the mountain. The day after that we should be in Spain.

June 16: Tamel (São Pedro Fins)

To avoid congested inner city streets through industrial parks, we took the metro in Porto to Vilar do Pinheiro and then walked to São Pedro de Rates 19.4 km (12 mi) away. It was probably the most difficult walk to date, mostly on cobble-stoned pathways which pounded our feet like meat tenderizers. Since this is the first day for many pilgrims on the Camino Portuguese, the alberque (pilgrim hostel) had a medic to care for the peregrinos’ feet. I was unsure if I could walk the next day, but a night’s sleep did wonders.

As we approached our destination, we could hear loud music and PA system. Nothing puts fear in a hiker’s heart as a festival. Yesterday was St. Anthony’s Feast Day and there were a carnival, songfest and fireworks to celebrate. The noise finally stopped after midnight, making for a short repose.

Today’s walk to Tamel (São Pedro Fins) was 25.3 km (15.7 mi) but a lot easier on the feet. We past many small villages, wonderful floral and vegetable gardens, and several towns. Dennis posed with the Barcelos cockerel. Once again, there was a fiesta in town, with artisan booths, local foods, and a singing band. There are many fiestas in this country, maybe more than in Spain.

It took us about 2 hours to walk from Barcelos to Tamel (São Pedro Fins). The route was uneventful except for the last 2 km or so climb to the top. Why are the hostels always at the top of hill, when pilgrims are most tired? We beat the rain, barely, and the weather should be inclement for the next several days.

June 14: Porto

We left Coimbra around 10 and arrived in Porto around 12:30. Porto is the largest city I have seen in Portugal, with large buildings and plazas that remind me of Madrid, Spain. The train station, Sao Bento is adorned with blue and white tiles. Leaving the station, I was dwarfed by tall stone buildings that prevented the sun from reaching the streets.

We found a reasonably priced hotel, Residencia Solar, on Rua Santa Catarina. The room is cramped but the bed is comfy and the WIFI is the strongest we’ve seen in Portugal.

After getting settled in we went for lunch and then to the cathedral to get our pilgrim’s passport stamped. The building looks more like a fort than a place to worship. Surprisingly, the inside is very narrow, and dark.

From the plaza in front of the cathedral is a vista point overlooking the city. I counted eight churches in the area. Each has a different look, possibly reflecting the various epochal styles. It was windy on the hill near the cathedral and I could smell the salty Atlantic.

The Rio Douro divides the city. From Ponte Luis, you can look down to the boats and gondolas on the river. Porto, to me, is one of the nicest European metropolis, very clean, and easy to get around in. Tomorrow we leave it to continue on towards Santiago; the Way promises to be scenic, with more pilgrims and pilgrim’s accommodations.

After an Italian dinner, we said goodbye to our German pilgrim friends who are returning home tomorrow. Dennis and I enjoyed our time with Tomas, Irma, and Andres–we shared a lot of laughs.

June 13: Coimbra

We left Rabacal at 8:09, planning to have breakfast in the next town (Zambujal) 3.2 km (2.5 mi) away. As we approached the town, I told Dennis that from now on we needed to eat before hiking; I was running out of energy. In town, we discovered that the cafe does not open until 1 P.M. Luckily I had some cookies and had them with watered-down Gatorade for breakfast. Our next chance for sustenance was 7.5 km away–more than two hours of walking.

It was a gorgeous day and the walk alternated between single-tract field paths, to cobble-stones, to asphalt, to dirt. In Fonte Coberta, the town has recently erected blue and white Portuguese tiles (2113) at the entrance and exit and on various monuments and buildings. It is a poor town that is taking pride in the Camino de Santiago. This quaint village has a water fountain and picnic area at the end of town. We were stopped there when our German pilgrim friends arrived. (Irma, Tomas, and Andres whose birthday it is today.) We walked from the fountain to Conimbriga together. We were all happy to arrive and find a place to eat.

Dennis and I got sunburned in the early morning sun. I on the back of my legs and arms. Because of the light breeze, I never suspected that I was turning red. Now that the sun is shinning most of the day, we will have to be more diligent in applying sunblock.

In Conimbriga we took a city bus to Coimbra because most of the remainder of the day’s walk was on asphalt and busy and dangerous streets. Its was a wise decision. Looking at the guidebook, we decided to take the train tomorrow to Porto, and then continue to Santiago on foot. Though I had initially thought of doing the coastal route, Dennis and I miss the camaraderie of having other pilgrims traveling with us. Consequently we decided to take the more traditional route, hoping to find other peregrinos.